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  1. #1
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    99 GTX electric/start relay ...

    Hey guys, still got issues with my wifes 99 GTX RFI:
    Here's the problem-again...Doo cranks and runs fine, will run all day...shut it off and its 50/50 if it will crank...if it doesn't, we wait 10-15 minutes and it does...it clicks at the solenoid/relay when it won't crank. I have ordered a solenoid from the Wayeniac on here so I'm gonna swap that out when it gets here...yesterday though it did this...I tried to bridge the connection on the solenoid/relay posts with the big flathead...no sparks? I mean none...15 minutes later it cranks, and for giggles I hit it with the flathead and sparks...if the solenoid is bad/hot ..would it completely kill the current on the relays post where I can't "jump" it? The elec rectifier seems to be very warm also...
    Some of you explined what the ele rec does , some ideas would be appreciated as well.
    Thanks-Phil
    Last edited by PhilnEdee; 07-26-2008 at 12:57 PM.


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilnEdee View Post
    Hey guys, still got issues with my wifes 99 GTX RFI:
    Here's the problem-again...Doo cranks and runs fine, will run all day...shut it off and its 50/50 if it will crank...if it doesn't, we wait 10-15 minutes and it does...it clicks at the solenoid/relay when it won't crank. I have ordered a solenoid from the Wayeniac on here so I'm gonna swap that out when it gets here...yesterday though it did this...I tried to bridge the connection on the solenoid/relay posts with the bid flathead...no sparks? I mean none...15 minutes later it cranks, and for giggles I hit it with the flathead and sparks...if the solenoid is bad/hot ..would it completely kill the current on the relays post where I can't "jump" it? The elec rectifier seems to be very warm also...
    Some of you explined what the ele rec does , some ideas would be appreciated as well.
    Thanks-Phil
    If you shorted the large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver and no spark or starter spin, then you have a bad battery, bad battery cable, or the starter is bad. To eliminate the cables use a jumper cable and parallel each cable to see which one it is. My guess whould be the ground wire from the engine to batery ground is bad. Try it first.

  3. #3
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    If you shorted the large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver and no spark or starter spin, then you have a bad battery, bad battery cable, or the starter is bad. To eliminate the cables use a jumper cable and parallel each cable to see which one it is. My guess whould be the ground wire from the engine to batery ground is bad. Try it first.


    Here's the thing...after 10-15minutes...I get starter turn/crank, got spark from shorting sole terminals... like the "power" switch was flipped back on...battery is good.

  4. #4
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Yeah...I read that. Try what I instructed. Corroded wires get hot and lose their connection under load. Then when they cool off, it gets enough connection to flow voltage. Get my drift now?

  5. #5
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Yeah...I read that. Try what I instructed. Corroded wires get hot and lose their connection under load. Then when they cool off, it gets enough connection to flow voltage. Get my drift now?

    I went through and checked tightned them all after I read your suggestion yesterday, oddly the positive cable was not very tight at the battery so I tightened them all...we rode yesterday, didn't have the problem happen, but she left it running most of the day, only shutting it off at the end (since gas and oil are so cheap ya know)...when we loaded it on trailer it fired right up...today we'll be closer to "base" out there and will be test it some more.
    Thanks-Phil

  6. #6
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    Update...rode a long way yesterday...shut the GTX off and then notta...clicking at the solenoid, couldn't jump it at the sole posts, no spark...pulled/towed it back for about 4 miles, stopping and trying to crank it along the way 4 or 5 times...got it back and on the trailer and it stated on the trailer...wife was real happy
    On the ground wire from the battery...can I take that off from the underside and attach/ground it somewhere else?

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Yes, it's advisable to mount it in a higher location. But the damage has already been done. I'd buy a new ground wire.

    You really still haven't confirmed which wire it is, or the starter itself could be the culprit. Just a FYI since you haven't done your homework and diagnosed it properly, you may have other parts to change in the future...

  8. #8
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Yes, it's advisable to mount it in a higher location. But the damage has already been done. I'd buy a new ground wire.

    You really still haven't confirmed which wire it is, or the starter itself could be the culprit. Just a FYI since you haven't done your homework and diagnosed it properly, you may have other parts to change in the future...

    96...I put a new starter on last year...would it cause the "no spark" we talked about if it has gone faulty? On the starter relay, does anyone have a pic or diagram for the wiring, other than the big Positive cables? I cannot find my big seadoo book...when I looked at the parts diagram on Babbitts, it only shows one small cable-plan on tearing into it after work today, gonna parallel the cables- but I was wondering if the sole was wired up right, there are three small wires connected to it in addition to the big cables from the battery and to the starter, are all three supposed to be on the same post as the cable from the battery...is there a ground for the relay itself?

  9. #9
    PhilnEdee's Avatar
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    And my hardest part is that when its at the house...it works..I need it to "not start/spark" where I can really test, and I cannot get it to fail here... that usually happens on the water...when I'm 4-5 miles from the trailer...and then it cranks on the trailer before I can even look at the cables...man, this is probably very simple and is really causing me alot of grief.

  10. #10
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilnEdee View Post
    96...I put a new starter on last year...would it cause the "no spark" we talked about if it has gone faulty? On the starter relay, does anyone have a pic or diagram for the wiring, other than the big Positive cables? I cannot find my big seadoo book...when I looked at the parts diagram on Babbitts, it only shows one small cable-plan on tearing into it after work today, gonna parallel the cables- but I was wondering if the sole was wired up right, there are three small wires connected to it in addition to the big cables from the battery and to the starter, are all three supposed to be on the same post as the cable from the battery...is there a ground for the relay itself?
    Yes, all the small wires go on one side (supply from the battery), and the solenoid's sole purpose is to break voltage to the starter. On the solenoid, the small white wire on the coil should be 12v hot and the black wire ground. If the starter brushes are not making contact inside the starter, or a winding is open(your definition is faulty), then yes, it would not produce a spark when shorting the terminals.

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