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  1. #1
    NooB
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    Jul 2008
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    96 SL700 bogs at full throttle

    Hello all, I bought a 96 Polaris SL700 a couple weeks ago and have been lurking around on here trying to find some help for my ski.
    The guy I bought the ski from told me it had been sitting for a while and probably needed the carb cleaned because it didn't seem to be making full power.
    I took the ski home cleaned it up, charged the battery and ran it on the hose a bit and it seemed to run great! I put the ski in the water rode out to the bay which is about a 10-15 minute ride at slow speed and opened her up. She sputtered for a bit then took off pretty well at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. So I rode it around for a few minutes and the warning alarm started to go off so I pulled up to a dock and let it cool down a few minutes. Started it back up rode to the ramp and brought her home.

    I took the carbs off, opened them up and cleaned them up. They were spotless but I sprayed them out anyway. Put them back on the ski, replaced the fuel filters/oil filter and cleaned the fuel/water seperator out and added a primer bulb before the carb to re-prime the fuel system.

    I also took out the thermostat because I assumed the warning alarm was due to temperature because the oil tank was full...

    I put the ski back in the water and it runs the same. Wonderful at low speed but sputters for a bit when I try to accellerate then takes off at anything 3/4 throttle or less.

    The compression is low from what I have read on here at 100 psi but both cylinders are dead even and it has enough power at 3/4 throttle for me at the moment but I really want this thing running 100%

    So my question is what should I try next? plug wires? adjusting the jets?

    here are a couple pics of the plugs the shinier one is the front cylinder









    Sorry for the looooong post but this is my first ski and I don't want to damage the motor by adjusting things wrong.
    Thanks! Nick~


  2. #2
    NooB
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    Jul 2008
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    Tampa,FL
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    ok so I checked the compression after warming it up a few minutes and got a bit over 105# on both cylinders and 120# with a half a teaspoon of oil down the plug holes. I know the fuel pumb is working so anyone have a suggestion?

    I have been searching this forum for like 2 weeks and haven't found anything that helped...

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Campbell, Ca.
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    Get back into the carbs and verify the internal filters are clean/
    What's the fuel pressure in the system at WOT?
    Have you verified the hoses are not kinked or damaged?
    Have you opened the pump to verify there is no blockage or crap in it?
    What's the piston wash look like?
    What are the MAX RPM'S you're running?

    Keep it to small bursts so you don't burn her down.
    Try closing the plug gap to .024

  4. #4
    NooB
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    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tampa,FL
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    I did see a metal screen type filter and I cleaned that out but I will pull it apart and check again.

    I don't have a fuel pressure gauge can you recommend a place to buy one? I am definatly not looking to spend a fortune here so cheaper the better...

    All the hoses have been replaced with gates marine hose and look like they are in very good condition with no kinks/ damage.I replaced the fuel filters and cleaned out the fuel/water seperator.

    opened up the fuel pump? yes when I had the carbs apart I checked the pump it is clean and the diaphram was ok no rips or anything like that.

    I tried looking down the plug hole with a flashlight but could only see the center of the piston it had carbon on it couldn't see any wash...

    I have no idea of the rpms I'm running the thing only has one gauge and thats a broken gas gauge lol...

    I will try the .024 plug gap thanks. also when I read about trimming a 1/4 inch off the ends of the plug wires do they mean the coil ends? No one ever really goes into detail on that. Is there a source to just buy replacement plug wires? they are 12 years old anyway.

    Thanks for the response PH2O!!!
    Last edited by Nik33615; 07-29-2008 at 10:07 PM.

  5. #5
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The 97 Domestic engine doesn't have the spark plug wire end issue like that of the Fuji engine. But since you asked, it does get snipped at the spark plug end. The end cap then gets screwed back into the fresh wire.

    It's hard to see from that one picture but that plug looks lean. (lower photo left). Piston wash would be a much better indicator.

    You can get a nice unit from Randy at Watcon or of course any auto supply store. You just want to make sure you have have fuel pressure within the system at WOT operation.

    Let us know what you find.
    Last edited by ph2ocraft; 07-29-2008 at 11:03 PM.

  6. #6
    NooB
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    The 97 Domestic engine doesn't have the spark plug wire end issue

    I have a 96 if that makes any difference?

    You can get a nice unit from Randy at Watcon or of course any auto supply store. You just want to make sure you have have fuel pressure within the system at WOT operation.

    Where exactly would I plumb in to test fuel pressure anyway? the return line? The lines before the fuel pump would show vaccuum right?

    Let us know what you find.
    Thanks again for the help!!!

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