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Thread: 2003 Genesis I

  1. #1

    2003 Genesis I

    ok Take the Genesis to the lake it runs perfect for about 5 minutes then it starts missing and then finally dies. It will usually start right back up and idle fine but will not run any higher rpm without just dying. Checked the fuel filter on the bottom of fuel pump was fine. Bought a new coil and swapped the 3 out but no such luck.
    ??????????


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!

    Can you give us any more history on the machine?
    Servicing, previous problems or fixes...

    Is the problem consistent, repeatable?

    When was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) last changed, if ever?

    Have you checked the fuel pressure?

    Does an engine fault message or red warning light appear?

    Has it been used in salt water in the past?

    2003 Polaris Factory Service Manual available here.
    Last edited by K447; 08-07-2008 at 08:28 AM.

  3. #3
    Can you give us any more history on the machine?
    Servicing, previous problems or fixes...Just normal servicing never any problems just new batteries and such.

    Is the problem consistent, repeatable? Had it out 3 times does the same thing Runs great for about 5 minutes. I have changed the coils 1 at a time and closed the gap in the plugs by a little someone told me to try that to see if it would fire with less gap.

    When was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) last changed, if ever)? Never have changed.

    Have you checked the fuel pressure? Yes, 24

    Does an engine fault message or red warning light appear? No

    Has it been used in salt water in the past? No, Never

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shokr View Post
    ...When was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) last changed, if ever)?
    Never have changed.
    ...
    It may or may not help, but changing the TPS could help the diagnostics process. Either it fixes the problem, or it eliminates the TPS as being the source of the problem.

    Sometimes they fail and cause the engine to act strangely. In any case, the TPS is not a huge cost ($100 or so), and having a spare TPS is a good idea anyway.

    In the meantime, you can try unplugging the TPS, and using thin pliers to gently squeeze the metal socket inside each connector shroud, so it more tightly grips the mating pins when plugged back together. Sometimes these contacts get slightly loose, and send an intermittent signal to the EMM computer.

    Put the spark plug gaps back to spec, or even better, install new plugs. The Ficht ignition system is very powerful, and can easily jump the plug gap. It is important to use the specified spark plugs, no substitutions allowed; NGK brand PZFR6H only

  5. #5
    Would that cause it to do the same thing every time? I mean it runs till it is like normal operating then does the same thing everytime. Are the injectors electrical? Couldn't they be breaking down as they get warm? I mean i really appreciate the advice and you know way more than i do about ski's but it is the same way every time. Could the tps be getting hot or if is not making connection wouldn't it be different each time? If you think it could be the tps i can get one and try.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shokr View Post
    Would that cause it to do the same thing every time? I mean it runs till it is like normal operating then does the same thing every time.
    Are the injectors electrical? Couldn't they be breaking down as they get warm?

    I mean i really appreciate the advice and you know way more than i do about ski's but it is the same way every time. Could the TPS be getting hot or if is not making connection wouldn't it be different each time?
    If you think it could be the TPS I can get one and try.
    Well, find one of the splice connectors that contains the Red/White wires that also power the injectors (45 volt DC). Take the cover off.

    Connect a volt meter between the splice bar and engine ground, and tape it so it cannot short to anything.

    You should see around 22 DC volts during cranking, then jump to 40ish DC volts at idle, and then up to 45 volts as RPM rises above idle.

    Take it for a short ride, and see if the voltage drops when the problem occurs. If it does, then either the EMM or the electrical stator inside the flywheel is failing when it gets warm.

    The injectors are electrical, but most injection problems seem to not be with the injectors themselves, but the EMM and stator, or the wiring, or the fuel pressure.
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  7. #7
    OK thanks i will let you know what happens. You can just walk it and hit the starter and it fires up everytime then take it to the water and runs like a champ then just when you think it is all right it just starts missing and dies.......then it will fire right back up but if you throttle it enough to get it on plane it falls on it's face if you hold the throttle down it will die if you let off the throttle it will run at idle speed.

  8. #8

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    dam, almost sounds like a fuel restriction or water in the gas. Fuel vent? Easy to check.

  9. #9
    I know. I tried the old loosening the gas cap but did not help. It is so much like it is a fuel problem. Skijunkie did i read you were in the Dallas area.....i'm work in Sherman but live in Okla. Can't find anyone that will work on ski's in this area.Maybe you need to move closer and put in a shop......lol

  10. #10
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'd start with the TPS as well, never hurts to have that spare.

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