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  1. #1

    New to the PWC Club

    Just bought a pair of 1997 SeaDoo GTX Skis,

    Two years of neglect and outside uncovered storage, Bought them as a gamble. No batteries and no keys. Turned out finding the keys in the front storage tool can.

    I have considered my self a decent backyard mechanic on cars, motorcycles, and boats.

    Started right up by hooking up the skis to water while not running, Hooking up a battery charger while the battery is connected, cranking one of the skis with the plugs out and plug wires hanging loose, and to cap it off a put a battery in backwards. Not a great start after reading up on the manuals I found online.

    Ski 1 (battery backwards and cranked while wires off is now running with a new 5 amp fuse. This ski has 155 hours(don't know if that is good or bad)

    Ski 2 had a broken small wire ground lug which I soldered on some new wire and lug. This ski is the problem. Will not crank with a new charged battery. Sylinoid clicks and puts 12v to the second red lug. Motor turned over once with plugs out so it isn't siezed. Ground wire to the block looks good, anc an't see the starter. Hour meter shows ---. When cranking shows an indication of low battery even with 12.7 volts.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Gary in FLA


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Hey Gary...welcome!

    Ski 2 check your ground wire from the engine to battery. They corrode under the heat shrink tubing at the eye crimp connector under the engine. Use a jumper cable to run a temporary ground from engine to battery and see if it starts. If so, the cable is bad.

    Do a carb cleaning on both before you water test them, siphon out all old fuel and replace. Also replace fuel lines if original gray.

    Carb manual is available at top of two-stroke page. Good luck!

    Robert

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info. WIll try the jumper tomorrow.

    Ski 1 was water tested today. Only had about a gallon of gas when I got then and no varnish smell. I have topped it off with fresh gas and synthetic oil. Idled fine in the driveway. Pulled the rear end apart and checked the drive oil before dipping it. Seemed real rattley while idling here in the driveway. Oil in the drive looked clean and high enough,

    Ran good. Ran it for about 10 minutes. Hit about 45 on the speedo. Ran smooth also. Sounded a lot better in the water with some muffling.
    Thanks
    Gary

  4. #4
    Hey Robert,

    Tried jumping the black ground lead to the block and no help. I have the plugs out so there should be no problem tuning it over.

    With the rear box out I get a loud click of the relay as expected when I hit the start button. Both red terminals are they 12v. For kicks I even tried the crow bar method and nothing.

    Guess the next stemp is to tack the air system off and jump the red side to the starter.

    Thanks
    Gary

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Hey Gary, the solenoid is a normally open set of contacts. Measure voltage on the load side (wire going to the starter) and battery ground. If you are getting the same voltage out of the solenoid as in, when start button is depressed, then the solenoid is good. Then get a small jumper wire and connect it to the hot post on the starter, and + side of meter and - still on battery ground. Then hit the start switch, if same as battery voltage the starter is toast. Tap lightly on the side of starter to see if you can disloge a stuck brush. Otherwise, starter time.

  6. #6
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum !

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Post

    Pull the PTO cover off and verify you can turn the engine over by hand, since you have the spark plugs out. This will eliminate a locked engine or pump.

  8. #8
    Thanks.

    I jumped the positive cable to the starter and still no luck.

    When I first put the battery in I got it to crank over so I doubt it is locked up. I just came to the same conclusion as you that the starter is probably toast. I will try banging on it now that the intake is out of the way.

    If I take it out I can play with it more.

    It will be fun once I get them both going.

    Thanks Again
    Gary

  9. #9
    A tap on the starter got it to crank. Any fixes to the starter or do I need to invest in a new one? I have no problem taking it apart and cleaning the brushes and comutator. Lube it up.

    Cranking the motor with the plugs out seem to blow a lot of oil on the rear cylinder. Seems like they should be even and just a misting.

    First things first on the starter I guess. Starting to look a little more promising.

    Thanks
    Gary

  10. #10
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Good idea having the plugs out, and smart observation noticing the oil in the rear cylinder! It could be your cases leaking from the RV cavity, but don't worry about it until you get some run time on it. If it is leaking, it will smoke excessively after sitting a few days when you first start it. Time will tell.

    On the starter...the brushes could have been locked from sitting. If it continues, then most definitely take it apart and check the condition. Since you are familiar with starters, SD makes a rebuild kit that is nothing more than a brush assembly. I will warn you though...they are a pain to get back together. Not like an old A/C Delco starter...lol

    RQ

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