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  1. #1

    sl 900 stator question

    Have a sl 900 that wont start. No fire at plugs. checked coil according to manual, ok. checked stator from wires in electric box according to manual.
    Brown wire has 2600 ohms instead of 0. Purple wire has 850 ohms instead of
    1200.
    Does this mean that the startor is bad, if so how do you get to the flywheel to remove the cover and stator. Looks like you would have to be a squirril to get to it. HELP


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyerjack View Post
    Have a sl 900 that wont start. No fire at plugs. checked coil according to manual, ok. checked stator from wires in electric box according to manual.
    Brown wire has 2600 ohms instead of 0. Purple wire has 850 ohms instead of
    1200.
    Does this mean that the stator is bad, if so how do you get to the flywheel to remove the cover and stator. Looks like you would have to be a squirrel to get to it. HELP
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    When you tested the Hall Effect sensor, did you use the 9 volt battery method to provide power to the Hall Effect sensor?

    This thread describes a couple of ways to check the Hall Effect sensor in the electrical stator;
    Static timing tools for Hall Effect stators

    The Hall Effect sensor signals the CDI with the flywheel position, triggering the spark.

    This article has some good info on how the Polaris CDI ignition system works.

    If you have not already, double check your stator coil resistances. I am not saying your measurements are wrong, just that it is a hassle to change the stator, if it was not actually the cause of the problem.

    Others who have worked on your model may be able to comment on how best the change the stator. On some models, the gas tank can be drained and pulled out of the front compartment, then you can get at the stator housing.

    On some other models, you can change the stator only by pulling the engine out. I don't know which applies in your case.

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Hi Jack, Verify the battery IS good and that you have at least 10.6 volts (measured at the battery) while cranking.
    If the battery is good it doesn't matter which is bad the stator or CDI, it comes down to replacing them as a kit. I guess you can buy the old crap and see if it lasts but in the long run you'll have wished you just updated the unit and been done.
    Be sure to run through the tests but 9 out of 10 times it's the battery or stator/CDI upgrade.

  4. #4

    sl 900 stator question.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    When you tested the Hall Effect sensor, did you use the 9 volt battery method to provide power to the Hall Effect sensor?

    This thread describes a couple of ways to check the Hall Effect sensor in the electrical stator;
    Static timing tools for Hall Effect stators

    The Hall Effect sensor signals the CDI with the flywheel position, triggering the spark.

    This article has some good info on how the Polaris CDI ignition system works.

    If you have not already, double check your stator coil resistances. I am not saying your measurements are wrong, just that it is a hassle to change the stator, if it was not actually the cause of the problem.

    Others who have worked on your model may be able to comment on how best the change the stator. On some models, the gas tank can be drained and pulled out of the front compartment, then you can get at the stator housing.

    On some other models, you can change the stator only by pulling the engine out. I don't know which applies in your case.
    I did not check the stator with the 9 v battery as i had no way of turning over the engine slowley, only with the battery which turns it over very fast.

    I tested it by using an ohm meter with the neg. lead on the black wire and checked the resistance of each stator wire with the positive lead and compared it with the maintenance manual. All wires from the stator were unplugged before i started testing them. I checked them twice to make sure of my readings.
    I did not measure the voltage on the brown wire while cranking or the battery voltage while cranking. The engine turns over so fast that i assumed the batter had a full charge. I will check that. Thanks for the info.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    Hi Jack, Verify the battery IS good and that you have at least 10.6 volts (measured at the battery) while cranking.
    If the battery is good it doesn't matter which is bad the stator or CDI, it comes down to replacing them as a kit. I guess you can buy the old crap and see if it lasts but in the long run you'll have wished you just updated the unit and been done.
    Be sure to run through the tests but 9 out of 10 times it's the battery or stator/CDI upgrade.
    If the battery is good, should the stator be condemed because of the resistance on the brown wire (2800 ohms) and the resistance on the Purple wire of 830 ohms instead of the 1200 ohms according to the manual?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyerjack View Post
    If the battery is good, should the stator be condemned because of the resistance on the brown wire (2800 ohms) and the resistance on the Purple wire of 830 ohms instead of the 1200 ohms according to the manual?
    Note the comments by shelby427uk regarding using the newer manual specs for the updated stator, vs. the info in the original service manual, which applies to the original CDI+stator, not the updated version.

    I think the brown wire is simply the power input for the Hall Effect sensor, so the measured resistance may not be critical, as long as the sensor is working.

    You should (with the spark plugs out) be able to turn the engine over slowly using the drive shaft coupler. Take the cover off, and grab the coupler. There are two flats on it for a big wrench, if you need a bit of leverage.

    If the 1200 ohm value is correct for your stator version, then your measured 830 ohms is too far off, and the stator has a problem.

  7. #7
    Thanks!! You guys are great. Only one more question, does anyone have the resistive measurements for the late model ? (CDI part no. 4060180) and stator combination?

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