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  1. #1

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    Pump/Impeller damage

    I decided to take a quick look just through the intake grate to get an idea of what kind of shape this thing was actually in. I noticed that the 8 1" inch 'tabs' that stick out towards the center of the intake (just before the impellar) were ALL completly destroyed -- and to match all the edges of the impellar were 'serrated' looking.

    I took some pictures -- but its hard to get a crappy camera in a crappy location.




    At my current location I don't have the time tools or place to take the pump off but just by looking at the photo's -- what do you guys think? I bought the machine used, and it only has 13 hours on it.


  2. #2
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    it has taken in some rocks. once the fins are damaged you need to remove them completely to not cuase cavitation. If the fins are damaged then good chance you could have some prop or wear ring damgage. you can run ski with fins broken but eventually need to remove them.

  3. #3

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    That solves my cavitation problem. So I should pull the intake grate and completely sand these fins? If sanding, what grit? Is there a benefit of having them over not having them?

  4. #4
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RX-Pike View Post
    That solves my cavitation problem. So I should pull the intake grate and completely sand these fins? If sanding, what grit? Is there a benefit of having them over not having them?
    I uses a dremel to get most of the work done and then just got them flat. I can not say what the gain is with them but many of us have removed them after damage with no problems.
    As far as grit I am sure others will chime in.

    You will want to pull pump and work from the back of the ski as that is much easier.

  5. #5

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    sounds good.

    when your putting the pump back on, do you have to apply new silicone?

  6. #6
    Gotta love this sport! 05Limited's Avatar
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    No silicone required. But the large, round, rubber pump seal should be slick before reinstalling so it doesn't get pinched. Spray it with Windex... I use spit

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by RX-Pike View Post
    That solves my cavitation problem. So I should pull the intake grate and completely sand these fins? If sanding, what grit? Is there a benefit of having them over not having them?
    remove the entire pump, chissel damaged shark teeth off with a good sharp wood chissel, be carefull not to go below the tooth base, finish off with a dremal or 60's grit

  8. #8
    Is it the factory installed impeller and/or was the impeller ever removed??? This happens when the impeller comes loose from the pump shaft and travels up the driveshaft..
    I am working on one in my shop right now where the owner didnt torque the impeller down enough.I have heard on occasion that they need to be loctited on..I personally have never done this but was wondering what the consensus was on the subject...

  9. #9
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenilinjunke View Post
    Is it the factory installed impeller and/or was the impeller ever removed??? This happens when the impeller comes loose from the pump shaft and travels up the driveshaft..
    I am working on one in my shop right now where the owner didnt torque the impeller down enough.I have heard on occasion that they need to be loctited on..I personally have never done this but was wondering what the consensus was on the subject...
    This happens when you suck up rocks or debris into the pump area.. If a prop is walking that far up into the pump tunnel then i would be looking for other issues...I never loctite my props...BUT if your doing a customers prop i MIGHT just for cheap insurance...You will not see any gains by cutting them out BUT you will also see no negative effects either..Personally you wont even know they are gone if ground out right.

  10. #10

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by adrenilinjunke View Post
    Is it the factory installed impeller and/or was the impeller ever removed??? This happens when the impeller comes loose from the pump shaft and travels up the driveshaft..
    I am working on one in my shop right now where the owner didnt torque the impeller down enough.I have heard on occasion that they need to be loctited on..I personally have never done this but was wondering what the consensus was on the subject...
    I always loctite the impeller and all bolts nuts etc on watercraft, not just to keep it from coming loose ,The best reason for always using plenty of blue loctite is it prevents corrosion, and keeps stainless bolts from becoming anodes everywhere they touch aluminum.IF I lived on salt water , and I bought new ski I would pull each bolt out and coat it with blue loctite before I ever put it in salt H2O the first time.>Marvin

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