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  1. #1

    97 GTX Won't Crank

    Ok I am new to this but getting frustrated just the same. Long and probably should be two Posts.

    I bought a couple trailer queens with unknown history and no batteries.

    First one is up and running. Kind of at least (more on that later).

    Second ski won't crank. (starter engages but doesn't crank)

    - First the starter was bad and now has been replaced (Turns over without plugs installed)
    - Replaced the negative cable to the block(no change)
    - Battery has a fresh charge (trickle charger)
    - Motor will fire over breifly with cylinders primed when plugs out

    Here is the funny part.
    - Motor cranks over with lugs removed (rear cylinder spews more oil than front)
    - Rear plug out front plug in (motor cranks)
    - Front plug out rear plug in (motor does not crank)

    Tried the jump with the truck with the motor off with no help for extra oomph.

    One issue is that I was anxious to get started and bought cheapo batteries at Walmart (Everstart crap - Had problems on motorcycles before with them), But this shouldn't be causing all my problems.

    Actually ski 2 battery must be low since it no longer starts.

    Stock Battery YB16CLB I bought Everstart 16CL-B (Fits perfectly)

    Questions are:
    What could cause ski 2 not to crank with rear plug installed?
    What is a decent replacement battery at a reasonable cost?
    Thanks
    Gary


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    There is no decent battery at a reasonable cost. Just fess up the $75 and buy a Deka ETX16L gel battery. It has well over the stock cca's, and lasts twice as long..."if" you never let it go dead.

  3. #3
    That's not too bad. These crappy Everstart batteries were $50 each. Where do I get them? Only nice thing about the Everstart batteries is I can buy and return them local.

    Any clue on the cranking problem?

  4. #4
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/ Click on find a dealer, and enter your zip for a local place to purchase.

    I really feel it's your battery. The other two possibilities are battery hot cable to starter, or your starter solenoid. Either can easily be verified by installing a voltmeter and checking voltage while cranking, at the starter and solenoid. Do you have a meter?

  5. #5
    Had a meter on it when the starter was bad and saw 12.4 volts on the starter side of the solinoid. I am just puzzled with the state of the front vs rear plug removed.

    Jumping the ski with the truck should have removed any fault with the battery, (truck was off to protect the ski).

    I will eventually go to premix. I really don't trust the oil injection especially with an older system like this. Just don't want to mess with that while investigating other problems. In the back of my head I am thinking hydro lock with oil in the rear cylinder. Once I douse it with fuel it kicks over.

    Found a battery on ebay for $75 including shipping.

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Good job on the battery.

    You may be right on the oil...now that you've posted what you've done.

    Remove the rear carb. You can stuff a paper towel in an open area of the crank, below the rod, then rotate the engine to drag the paper towel down into the bottom of the case. Pause about 30 seconds, then reverse rotate back up and fish out the saturated towel. Repeat until you get a clean towel back out. Reinstall your carb and see if it cranks.

  7. #7
    Carbs are off.

    Can't really see or reach anything on the rear cylinder. Afraid of pushing paper towels in and not getting them back.

    Need to look in the shop manual. Looks like a round access plate under the exhaust manifold. May see if I can pull that to get a better view. Hoping I can use some silicone gasket sealer when putting stuff back together without going to the dealer to get new gaskets.

    May be a good time to get rid of those gray lines and go to premix. Those oil injection lines are very small. Guess I need to seal those off with a soldering iron and fold them over with zip ties. Willl read up in the shop manual to pull the lube gear.

    Keep getting in deeper and deeper.

    Thanks

  8. #8
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kocomo View Post
    Can't really see or reach anything on the rear cylinder. Afraid of pushing paper towels in and not getting them back.
    Chicken... Being a virgin is no fun...remember?

    That's called a rotary valve. Depending on it's position you may need to pull the intake too...to gain access to stuff the towel.

  9. #9
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    I am pissed at Deka, my battery went dead and won't hold a charge after half a season. They told me my 2 amp trickle charger overcharged the battery...give me a break...Then how come my other Deka that had the same treatment is going strong?? They won't replace it..

  10. #10
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surferd15 View Post
    I am pissed at Deka, my battery went dead and won't hold a charge after half a season. They told me my 2 amp trickle charger overcharged the battery...give me a break...Then how come my other Deka that had the same treatment is going strong?? They won't replace it..
    How old is it? I'd find another dealer, or email corporate and complain!

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