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  1. #1

    94 SL750 questions....

    Howdy ALL! A newbie here and to jetskis.

    We recently purchased a 94 SL750 with a couple minor issues. And I've been able to repair all, Thanks to these fantastic forums.

    I do have one trim issue left that I need "clarification on" (For lack of a better term)

    I've figured out that the LR23 reticifier/VR is bad by putting the orange trim switch wire directly to red/blue constant voltage terminal as someone had posted. It works like a champ now.

    My question is, can it be left there permanenetly? Would there be any harm if it was for any amount of time?

    Oh, anyone have any advice for replacing the front storage cover knob? It still closes and locks, but only by the knurled steel knob. The other plastic ( I presume?) piece is gone

    Thanks again ALL!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesian View Post
    ...I've figured out that the LR23 reticifier/VR is bad by putting the orange trim switch wire directly to red/blue constant voltage terminal as someone had posted. It works like a champ now.

    My question is, can it be left there permanenetly? Would there be any harm if it was for any amount of time?

    Oh, anyone have any advice for replacing the front storage cover knob? It still closes and locks, but only by the knurled steel knob. The other plastic ( I presume?) piece is gone...
    First post, and you have already fixed your machine!
    Welcome!

    You can leave the trim connected to Red/Purple, but the advice is to wire a fuse (fuse of less than 15 amps) into the trim wire. If the trim motor gets stuck powered on, or shorts, you don't want it to shut down the entire electrical system.

    Those hood knobs are well known for failing. Look in the classifieds, or PM John Zigler

    It can be difficult to install a replacement knob, as the cross pin is pressed through the metal shaft. I am sure it can be done, but I don't know how to do it without a battle.

    I found a plastic 'ring' that pressed neatly over the knurled metal part, and used that.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the Welcome K447!

    My first thought was to put a fuse link in as you have mentioned. Just didn't know the current draw of the trim motor. Why didn't they do that in the first place?

    ANd thanks for the replacement knob info. I'm looking into it...no hurry on that fix.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Fuse for the electric trim motor

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesian View Post
    ...My first thought was to put a fuse link in as you have mentioned. Just didn't know the current draw of the trim motor.
    Why didn't they do that in the first place?...
    Fewer parts, less manufacturing cost, less things to warranty.

    Put a multi-meter in DC Amps mode, connected in series with the power feed to the trim motor. Use 10 Amp mode on the meter, then hold down the trim button, until the trim motor starts clicking.

    Watch what the peak Amp meter reading is. Double that number, and use a fuse close to that value. If it draws 2 Amps, use a 5 Amp fuse. If it draws 6 amps, use a 10 Amp fuse.

    Let us know what Amp reading you get, and what size fuse works for you.

    Be sure the fuse holder and its mounting will survive being in a marine environment - make it water and vibration proof.

    BTW, the MFD trim display and the actual trim position can get out of sync over time. To fix it, hold trim button one way until the motor clicks/clunks several times. Then hold it the other way until it again clicks a few times. Now they should be in sync.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk Bone.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the welcome xlint89!

    K447, we have the "type 1"? MFD round gauge. The trim indicator is a separate mechinally cable driven job.

    One of the last "important" issues I have to tackle is that round MFD gauge. All LCD indicators on it work except for the fuel level. I pulled the sender and measured at the MFD connector and everything checked out OK. I'm going to use a dremel type cutting tool and pull apart the gauge. Sounds like a internal corrision issue, LCD driver chip, or the LCD display itself malfunctioning.

    I'll do a current draw measurement on the trim, and report the findings, as soon as I can head back out. Luckily, I own a DC current clamp meter. Just wrap the clamps around whatever "suspect" wire/cable ya want. No "in series" connection needed.

    Thanks again for your assistance!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesian View Post
    ...we have the "type 1"? MFD round gauge...
    ...All LCD indicators on it work except for the fuel level.

    I pulled the sender and measured at the MFD connector and everything checked out OK.

    I'm going to use a Dremel type cutting tool and pull apart the gauge. Sounds like a internal corrosion issue, LCD driver chip, or the LCD display itself malfunctioning...
    When the MFD 'boots up' when battery power is reconnected, does the fuel level portion of the LCD display also appear for a second or two?

    If it does, then the LCD is good.

    Sometimes the float part of the fuel sender loses it's ability to actually float in gasoline, and just sinks to the bottom of the tank, which causes the MFD to always show low fuel.

  8. #8
    K447,

    Here's what I've done abou tthe MFD so far....

    1) Physically pulled the sender and moved the arm. No reading on the gauge. Even if the float don't float, the gauge should have shown a level.

    2) I checked the senders' variable resistance at the MFD connector. Resistance changed as needed. (33-240) However, I did not check to see if the fuel level pin had broken off the gauge. I'll do that shortly...

    3) When I use the mode button, when the gauge has been sitting idle, the fuel level does show briefly then disappears. So the lcd display itself in the MFD is OK. It's just not getting the signal from the connector to the inard workings.

    Thanks again for the suggestions! I'm not giving up yet.

  9. #9
    Back again!

    We've had a great time using the 94 SL750 over the past year. We gave it to our younger son as a reward for landing an excellent new job this past Spring.

    Thanks to these forums, we've been able to do all repairs to date by ourselves, until now.

    Yesterday, as we were approaching the ramp to pull out, (thank goodness it happened there) we thought we sucked something in or the impeller broke or something else. It would not go over about 5mph and would "growl" and shake when revved.

    This morning, I did a cold compression test and all 3 cylinders were about 120psi. No holes in pistons. (Did the Mikuni 3 outlet pump upgrade over the past winter)

    However, I did find a plastic bottle cap wedged between two blades of the impeller. Could this have possibly caused our problem? The impeller and clearances are fine. Anytring else I can check?

    Thanks again to all for your assistance!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonesian View Post
    B...thought we sucked something in or the impeller broke or something else. It would not go over about 5mph and would "growl" and shake when revved.

    This morning, I did a cold compression test and all 3 cylinders were about 120psi. No holes in pistons. (Did the Mikuni 3 outlet pump upgrade over the past winter)

    However, I did find a plastic bottle cap wedged between two blades of the impeller. Could this have possibly caused our problem? The impeller and clearances are fine. Anything else I can check?

    Thanks again to all for your assistance!
    Debris caught in the impeller can cause the symptoms you describe.

    Test ride it, and if the problem is fixed, you are good to ride.

    If the problem remains, then you should pull the jet pump and drive shaft, and check for striped splines. Be careful not to loose the little rubber bumpers from each end of the drive shaft.

    Did you solve your fuel level display problem?

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