Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    Switch to Premix

    You know they say there is a lot of info on this but I am suprized there is so little.

    Really expected there to be a entry in the DIY, FAQ, or how to section.

    I bought my fuel lines today and am ready to attack. The injection lines are very small. Some have folded over and zip tied. Others seem to have left them in tack with the gear removed. I am afraid of the zip ties breaking over time and hose clamps are too big.

    What is the best way to switch to premix on a 97 GTX? May want to put this to the how to section.

    Ready to go!!


  2. #2
    I do it the lazy man's way but if you want a more professional method, then here you go. Go somewhere that sells aftermarket pwc parts. Pick yourself up a proper injector block-off plate and gasket assembly, they may even be able to fix you up with properly fitted plugs for the injector ports. Remove the injector completely and the plastic drive shaft inside the cover. Do away with the two small injector lines completely and cap the brass oiler ports on the intake manifold. You could either remove the ports temporarily and fill them with solder and replace, or you can use some small rubber caps and zip-ties. Personally I don't like the soldering idea just because anything semi-metallic, with even a slight chance that it can sneak into the engine somehow scares me. You will hear from every end of the earth different opinions about that line but it's entirely up to how confident you are in what you do.

    If you wanted to get really fancy, you can pick up some tie-rod ends for R/C cars, slip the threaded portion into the ports (cut them short mind you ) and solder the ball end to the outside. No chance they can get drawn through. Then you will need to either come up with a plug for the bottom of the oiler tank where the large line to the pump is, or do what I did and just cap the filter and tie-strap it in the upright position to it's own line. Leave the other two large lines that run under the engine though as they lube the rotary vavle components...and make sure to keep about a 1/4 tank of oil in there.

    It is possible the internal seals are or will allow some oil to sneak past and get into the crankcase. Just encase you see the oil level getting low sometime down the road and there's no injector to justify it Hope this is what you were looking for.

  3. #3
    Yes this helps.

    I may document the steps and recommend for the DIY/How to/FAQ section.

    This is what I have heard and read. Currently my carbs are off.
    Using my shop manual.

    - I will disconnect tie off the cable connected to the oil pump housing (no longer needed)
    - Remove the oil supply line from the Oil pump housing
    - Use a stainless steel bolt and stainless hose clamp to block the oil supply line from the oil tank at the filter
    - Remove the oil pump housing and remove pump gear and discard
    - Re-install pump housing
    - cut oil injection lines about 4 inches from injector nipple
    - Insert fine stainless bolts into the oil injection lines and zip tie (use multiple zip ties and fold to insure against breakage and air leaks)
    - Leave main supply and return oil lines running under the block
    - Insure at 1/4 tank of oil is retained to provide lubrication to the rotary valve
    - If the fuel lines have not been replaced, do it now to remove straight fuel from the supply path(otherwise the fuel lines should be drained)
    - either fill the tank to capacity with the proper oil content for 40:1 or 50:1 mixture or emplty the fuel tank and premix prior to fueling the ski

  4. #4
    How about some pics to go along with this. I plan on switching my 95 GTX...

  5. #5
    Haven't actually done this yet. Based on research this seems to be the sequence of the events. Was looking for confirmation.

  6. #6
    Yeah you pretty well have it down. I wouldn't be too worried about cutting the small lines from the injector pump if you plan on leaving them still attached to the manifold. Just remove them off of the pump and plug the ends there. This way you can use the hose slots on the front cover to act as a retainer for them and keep them out of the way.Folding the lines over themselves may not be a great idea. If they are old lines they could pinch holes at the bend and in time break off there.

    As for using bolts for plugs, I would reccommend something else with a clean shoulder on it. Bolts don't usually seal very well as oil and air can still find a way through with the thread pattern. If you do go with a bolt, get long ones so you have the un-threaded shoulder to work with. Cut off the thread portion and go that route. If you are unsure of the bolt staying in place, grind around the shoulder about half way down so you have a ring groove that you can use for grip with a small tie-strap. I've even heard for the large oil line that old spark plugs fit them just nicely...a bit of a crude method but if you're in a pinch it will work.

    The cable for the pump can be fully removed too if you prefer to have it out of there completely. I wouldn't discard all the pump components though as you may find you need them again some day. Should you think about taking it to a dealer as a small trade towards something else, they usually request the injection parts to come with the ski. Again you're right about the lines. If the old gray lines are still there pull them out and replace each one as you remove it, it saves a lot of headaches later. If at all possible, do try and get as much of the fuel out of the tank as possible. It would be a real shame to sacrafice a good engine for guessing how much oil should be used to how much fuel is thought to be in the tank.
    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 08-13-2008 at 10:02 PM.

  7. #7
    Plan is to do this tomorrow. I will see about talking a few pic to help others.

  8. #8

    Almost done and re-installing the carbs and stripped 2 of the carb bolt mounting holes. There is several signs that this machine has been torn down before.

    Has anyone else had this issue? Tap and go with bigger bolts or replace the round plate it mounts too?

  9. #9
    water worx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Sunny Fla,Ft Pierce
    Get a used manifold.

  10. #10
    Looking now.

    Completely pulled the tank to completely empty it. Dumped oil all over the place. Some dumb ass(me) filled the oil tanks to capacity on both ski's. I have been digging for bottles to dump oil in. Made up 10 gallons of premix.

    Then stripped the damn plate putting it back together. Its a bitch to get them carbs in place to get the bolts started in the first place.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Noticed a change in fuel consumption when switched over to premix
    By DanielDucati in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-13-2012, 04:27 PM
  2. Switching over to me please...
    By Tturbonegro in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 09-19-2011, 06:00 PM
  3. Switched to Premix
    By ran-man in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-05-2011, 06:55 PM
  4. Switching 02 RX to Premix
    By Ascend in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-08-2010, 04:47 AM
  5. The importance of using kill switches
    By bling bling in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-13-2005, 01:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts