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  1. #1

    Newby needs help - oil and metal shavings in bilge of 97 WV760

    Hi Guys - Been lurking and just joined tonight. I have searched for my maladies and I think I am either too green to know any better or maybe I really do need some expert advice!
    Problem 1 - oil in bilge - Just bought skis 3 weeks ago - can't keep my butt of off them! I am an old school former 'semi-pro' H20 skier and used to loathe wave runners. Now I totally dig 'em AND the old saying "If you can't lick 'em, join 'em!" Wish I would have years ago!
    Anyway - back to the oil. The dude I bought 'em from said son spilled oil when filling and he never cleaned it up. So I cleaned it up and I'll be darned - it came right back after I ran them. So here are the facts:
    97 WV760, just over 100hrs and very clean
    Most importantly ski smokes to high heaven - runs super rich and had a habit of fouling plugs so - it is oiling.
    Oil in bilge is fresh - clean and unused.
    Followed all oil lines, snipped off flared ends re-zip tied double and checked reservour for cracks, pump for leaks etc etc. I also pulled the carb plate and replaced both carb gaskets - this may have fixed it - I am testing that repair tomorrow. But I am still skeptical because of the amount of oil. I am guessing I would get about a 1/2 - 3/4 cup in about an hour or so of running. I watched it oil both carbs just fine at idle while I had it apart.
    Problem 2 - metal shavings
    While mopping up bilge, I notice a fair amount of bright metal shavings. Don't have these in the bilge of the 96 WV700! What the heck is making all THAT?

    It runs good, will go 48mph - does have a tendancy to miss ever so slightly every now and then but it had not been run in 2 seasons so I am still working out the cobwebs. Previous owner told me it fouled plugs - after I replaced set he had in it, I am still running clean on the plugs - just a little dark gunk. Of course I put in fresh oil, fresh gas and a fresh fuel filter.
    Now it does have that familiar issue of of being a bugger to start cold. But starts right up every time immediately when warmed up. Prev owner had starting fluid he used - that could have done the damage to those carb gaskets but I would be surprised if all my oil was coming from there!
    So if any of you gurus have any suggestions on the source of the oil and the source of the metal shavings - please enlighten me. Taking to dealer for service on Friday and I know I am going to be raped on the labor charges!
    Love this forum - so glad I found it!
    Anyone want to ride with a girl in KC - let me know!

  2. #2
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    United States
    If it were my ski I would lose the oil pump and go premix solves a problem and prevents future failures. Add a primer use the oil injection inlets for this and the hard starting will be a thing of the past. As for the shavings, may want to check the coupler. The rubber damper may be going on you.

  3. #3
    Thanks - I'll take a look at that coupler ASAP.
    Thought about the primer kit and premix. Guess I will move that up the priority list!
    In the meantime though, just curious about where the oil is coming from. But a coupler may be a bigger deal to worry about right now!
    Got any idea where a really long and tiny stainless steel spring may have come from? Mopped that out of the bilge this morning. It is a bit mangled....

  4. #4
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    United States
    hard to say on the oil, sound like you checked everything. could be a pinhole or crack in a line.

  5. #5
    krispaintballz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Kenosha, WI
    I think bill is right sounds like the metal shavings are from the coupler. The oil is probably from the oil line cam off the oil tank and he put it back on and said f*ck it on the clean up. Now you cleaned up what you can see but there is still oil in places. Then when you drive it it all settles back by the bilge. The little spring sounds like he was working on the carbs and "bing" there goes the n/s spring. It probably fell in side the ski and he couldn't find it. I feel you have no probs but the couplers. It misfiring a bit just tells me maybe the plugs foul out a bit. Sounds like maybe if someone was tinkering them messed up the oil pump alignment. Put up some pics of the oil at the bottom so i can see how much.
    Last edited by krispaintballz; 08-14-2008 at 09:52 AM.

  6. #6
    jdog800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Alexandria L.A.
    That long spring could be off of the crank seal. This could be were the oil is comeing from as well. If its starting to pop out or is springing a leak you could be in for some major trouble ahead.
    The seal im talking about is located behind the coupler. With an inspection mirror and a flashlight this can easly be inspected.
    About the amount of oil that in the bilge, Did you have the ski tilted with the nose up? If not there is a low spot under the gas tank that oil will sit and is very hard to get it all out. I would also inspect the oil tank for cracks. Have seen a couple develop cracks before.
    These are signs of something wearing out. Mabey its time for an overhaul. If you do it yourself it wont be that expensive. And its not that hard of a job either.

  7. #7
    Thanks Guys! This totally gives me something to go on. I am headed to the dealer to drop it off and am going to keep this info to myself at first and act like the girl I am and see how badly they want to make money off of my naivety! I have taken vehicles in before, told them what I thought was wrong and then they just fix that and don't even bother looking and I leave and still have problems - I am a dumb girl afterall - what the heck do I know!
    So this time around, I'll mention oil, spring and shavings and see what kind of prognosis they give me. I know I could do alot of this myself. (Daddy taught me well!) I just lack the time and summer is flying by!

  8. #8
    Jdog - you nailed it! Damn crank seal is a'gonner! Source of oil in the bilge AND contributing to starting issue. I spoke to the mech at the dealer for quite awhile - trying to use my womanly wiles on 'em! He is a nice guy and seemed to be a really experienced tech. SO tomorrow I will get my estimate on the damages. Coupler is also damaged so Bill was right on that one too! I am guessing with parts and labor I am looking at about $700 - I'll know for sure tomorrow. I still want to feel good about this purchase - I got a 96 WV700, this sick 97 WV760 and a double trailer with 2 spares for $2800. I think the guy knew darn good and well the oil was a bigger problem and was unloading them. He started out wanting $4000 - so at least I did not fall into that big hole.
    I guess the way I should look at it is the 96 and the trailer alone were probably fair for the price - the 97 was free! Haha! But I knew with their ages I was buying hobby projects to learn on so there you go!
    Many thanks guys - I'll post the final outcome just for grins and giggles!


    96 Wave Venture 700
    97 Wave Venture 760
    93 American Skier Volante SE
    91 Travelmaster RV - the hauler and the crash pad
    98 Chevy Tracker - the towed get around 4x4 that also hauls the skis!
    01 Lexus ES300
    And I work on every one of them myself! Over 280000 miles and 1700 hrs combined and still running strong!

  9. #9
    jdog800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Alexandria L.A.
    Glad to help. At least you caught the problem before it got bad. The bad crank seal can cause a lean condition and burn up a piston or crank quick.
    Jennifer if you are going to have a mechanic do the work for you. Now would be a great time to change rings and have the cylinders honed. This will give you a fresh new motor when it goes back together.
    You should be able to get this motor totaly rebuilt with rings,seals,and gaskets for the 700.00 bucks they quoted you.....if not find another mechanic. The parts for this should not be no more than 200.00 so 500.00 labor is more than fair.

  10. #10
    Hy Guys! OH Boy - I knew it would be bad - but not this bad!
    Dealer wants AT LEAST 10hrs in labor at $120 an hour plus parts! He says rear crankseal definately shot and wants to pull motor to look for cause of crankseal failure. He said there may be a bearing out as well that caused crank seal to go - does that all sound right? They want 4.2 hrs in labor JUST to pull the motor plus time and materials of course to find issue and fix. Then of course one can surmise same amount of time to put back together. OY! I do not think this 97 is worth that! Could be $1500++
    Guess I'll go get it and call it a wash! Maybe a winter project for me and my pals. I am soooo bummed!

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