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  1. #1

    Wear Ring Question

    So I chewed up and spit out the wear ring today and I am swamped at work right now. I can fix this myself however I am so busy with work I dont think I have time. How much labor time should I expect from a shop on wear ring install.
    Thanks,
    Eric


  2. #2
    I just replaced my wear ring a week ago. First time ever doing one as I have never owned a Sea-Doo brand pwc before this one. I had it done in about 25 minutes. As long as the pump is off they should be able to do it in the same length of time.

  3. #3
    The ski's have taken a "backseat" to the Corvette DarthAWM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwarzenegger View Post
    I just replaced my wear ring a week ago. First time ever doing one as I have never owned a Sea-Doo brand pwc before this one. I had it done in about 25 minutes. As long as the pump is off they should be able to do it in the same length of time.
    In most mechanical trades(esp where the customer isn't looking over their shoulder) it goes by the book. THe book will say how long it "should" take to do a repair and that is what they charge. I think the Sea Doo book will say between 1.5 and 2 hours for this repair

  4. #4
    Agreed Hopefully they will be good to you and charge you what it really had taken them.

  5. #5

    more questions

    I am lil confused on the install process and how to get the pump out and apart. I have the service manual but it doesnt show much. Anybody got a good faq link for a start to finish install???

  6. #6
    What is the year and model of your Sea-Doo?

  7. #7
    96 GSX...sorry bout that


    Oh and I finally got my other gremlins fixed and this was the first day all year that the ski ran great untill like the last few miles of the ride...and i crapped my wear ring...oh well!!!
    Last edited by pre64; 08-17-2008 at 08:46 PM.

  8. #8
    Removal of your jetpump should be very similar to mine. If it has power trim then you need to unscrew the push-rod from the top of the output nozzle. It takes an 8mm nut driver. Remove the bolt securing the steering rod with a 10mm wrench and socket and then unscrew the 4 bolts securing the nozzle to the pump housing with a 14mm socket. Pull off the seat, remove the two clear hoses behind the VTS system (they run from the black auto-bilges in the back of the hull) and undo the gear clamp with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    Go back to the pump housing at the back of the ski again and using a 17mm deep socket, remove the 4 nuts, washers and lock washers securing the pump housing to the hull. This is the hard part...the pump housing is sealed to the hull from the factory with silicone so you will be pulling on that pump housing like there's no tomorrow to break that seal. I've heard some people will tie something up to the housing and a secured spot to the wall like an anchor bolt, hook the ski back up to their vehicle and drive out slowly just to break that seal. You may get lucky and it could just be a little effort to get it out of there but don't count on it...it's normally a fight to the finish.

    A good idea I use and it works very well...get a piece of flat soft rubber sheet...similar to a tractor tire tube and make a seal to go around those three ports. Scrape off all the old silicone to the best you can and never use it again if you can help it. The rubber seal works well and makes removing the pump a breeze in the future.
    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 08-17-2008 at 09:09 PM.

  9. #9
    Okay...I have never been into a pump before and I have been reading around all night. When I take the pump off the impeller will slide off the end of the shaft and remain in the pump housing correct?? Will I need a special tool to remove the impeller or any other things such as the cone??

  10. #10
    The impeller will stay inside the pump housing and you do need a special tool to remove the impeller. I bought mine from a place in the northern states and it only cost me 9 bucks plus shipping. It worked perfectly too and is made by Solas so you know it's decent. Here's a posting of what you're about to do...these guys speak of unseating the o-ring on the driveshaft at the crabon ring but I've never had to before and haven't had any problems with it at all. But that part is entirely up to you and how confident you are with it all. There will be a rubber button on the end of the drive shaft...make sure it's still there when you re-install the whole deal. As for the cone, just unscrew the 3 screws and it pops off but you will get fluid all over the place. I think those 3 screws are 6mm heads...can't remember.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69758

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