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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Australia
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    1100 Waveraider blues

    Hi guys,i've been workin on skis for about 15 years,and this time i'm stumped.I have a '95 1100 raider which has a serious lack of power between 1/4 throttle to 1/2.After this it kicks in and takes off.Believe me when i say i've done everything with the carbs.I've changed low speed jets,raised and lowered popoff,played with all my t-handled mixture screws till the cows come home.It must be something else.I've also had all the electrics tested at my local dealer wich checked out fine.The motor has about 5 hours on a full rebuild.I've pulled off all the intakes and reinstalled new reeds and gaskets.After half throttle,it has good power and speed,but if i drop below half,it bogs.So it's basically all or nothing.Compression is an even 125psi in all cylinders.Help me pleeeeaase!!


  2. #2
    RAIDER RUNNER BULLRAIDER's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    HOUSTON TEXAS
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    651
    Hello OZ........hope we can help, first give the ENTIRE history of the engine stock, ported, also the air filter setup, stock, or aftermarket, all this info is neede to help, believe me when i tell you "I have been there".........if the stock system is removed ,I have seen guys ty wrap the fuel pump to the hoses, causing the fuel pump pulse line to kink, and leting it stumble, then after it pulls hard it straightens out the hose a little to get more pulse to the pump, make sure you give all the info, thanks

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Lafayette, La.
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    I had one that would do the same out the hole and after letting Yamaha play with it for awhile I decided to do a bunch of mods and when I pulled the carbs off I found that the fitting that the pulse line connects to was loose in the block. Used JB Weld to fix it when I installed the other 2 for the new carbs

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Australia
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    28

    waveraider blues

    Ok,the engine is totally stock,nothing aftermarket.Ihave also rebuilt the fuel pump with a genuine mikuni rebuild kit that comes with the check valves as well.Interesting to note how the pulse body is 90 degrees different in the diagram between the mikuni and the genuine yamaha.I remember the ski used to totally die in the left turn before i did the pump.All the pump lines are free,and i have the pump bracketed away enough from the carb now to allow access to all the screws.I have had excellent success in tuning the Keihin and SBN carbs before.However,with the external pump concept,i seem to be in unknown territory.I have a perfectly good set of Keihin carbs iwish i could bolt on for the elimination factor.One thought i would mention,when i assembled the engine,i lost the original flywheel key.I got another one from a dealer,but it was too big,so i machined it down to size.Maybe,just maybe the flywheel is sitting too far forward enough to affect alignment with the trigger coils.Could explain why it takes two pushes on the start button to get the bendix engaged.That could just be a "raider thing".I hope you can help with the extra info.Cheers.

  5. #5
    RAIDER RUNNER BULLRAIDER's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    651
    Oz,go completly back to stock springs and jets, the settings for the stock carbs will run better , if you are using the stock airbox set up, the restriction on that set up is a lot, those carbs are really good, once you set it up you will be able to just ride, if you dont have the specs let me know, I have tried different stups ,and the stock air box likes the stock settings, if everything else is stock, make sure the rear seal is not popped halfway out also , it hides under the cover for the intermidiate shaft, and sometimes pops out on new engines it will cause a leak, that will be hard to dignose if it is not pressure checked.try the stock settings ,................

  6. #6

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    Dec 2005
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    You read my mind Bullraider,i'm putting the stock jets back in.On all my yamaha rebuilds,i epoxy the rear seals in to stop them from popping.I will ride after work some time this week,and let you know how it goes.Cheers.

  7. #7
    RAIDER RUNNER BULLRAIDER's Avatar
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    Oz....I hope it goes good.let us know, make sure you put the springs back the way they came out "stock", and dont reuse that gasket, I know they are costly, but that many times off and on, it will really not seal, I make ny own ,by tracing it out and cutting, I make them thicker also, the wrench I use, is a box end that has been heated and bent almost 90degrees, the shorty will work also, but i prefer the bent wrench, it doesnt bust the nuckles if it slips."DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY TIMES i LEFT THE DOCK TO FEEL THAT "BRRRRR',BLUP, TO HAVE TO TURN AROUND PUT IT BACK ON THE TRAILER", sometimes the simplist things are better. When you decide to speed it up a little, let me know ,I have the info wrote down , for stock, alittle stronger with K/N's, then with 44's, then all the way to 46's, the 44's/46's pull real hard, the accelleration, is sweet, it suprised more than a few...................I like the epoxy on the seals, I was commenting on the CHILTON, book that shows the picture of the seals put in backwards, and when I called the company to tell them the picture is wrong, they told me to look at the front of the manual, where it states, "the information in this book may be INCORRECT and they are not responsible for any thing.........I thought that is why we buy them good luck my friend.

  8. #8

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    I've found the problem!! Looking down the carb throat,you'll see the tiny transition holes that supply fuel for low speed before the main discharge nozzle kicks in.They're hard to get to,but i opened up an old popoff spring and poked it in the holes to find 2 out of 3 holes in no.3 carb blocked,and the others partially blocked.Unlike the Keihins,you can't see if there's a blockage.So i poked my stretched out spring in all the holes and used a rubber tube to blow through the low speed jet hole to check flow.This is why all attempts to tune under half throttle have failed.I ran it yesterday,and for the first time,it ran smooth all the way to half and beyond,while pulling on the throttle slowly.Bullraider,i'm ready for your hopup specs now thanks.Thanks guys for your replies and input.My experience could help other skis with the mikunis.Cheers.

  9. #9
    RAIDER RUNNER BULLRAIDER's Avatar
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    Great glad you got it running strong, now you have to decide to ,make it handle better or, run faster???, stupid question ,I know.............speed items for the Raider, are......Protec shorty ride plate, this is the fastest plate for our skis..I have tried 6 different plates and also cutting off the stock plate, while the stock plate will be faster cut off, it sacrifices the feel of the ski ,staying put on the water. the intake grate to use is the R/D grate, it WILL scrub off some speed ,but it is the best for chop........the stock grate with the center bars cut out is the fastest grate period, but you give up serious chop hook up,---sponsons, you need to find the RIVA proseries, no longer made, on e-bay sometimes, beach house is another great one, if you cant find any , remove your stock ones and move them up one bolt , that leaves one exposed, get a vacuum cap and put it on there it is sharp, that will actually help the handling due to forward placement of the sponson.The prop to use when you are MOSTLY stock is the Raider -"R" pitch fron Island racing, you can get a 14/20 and he will repitch it, super nice guy, "Carl", then make sure of your clearance on your impeller to wear ring,

    SPEED --have the head milled to achieve 150 psi"usually it is about 10psi for every .010 shaved", and no more, with pump gas"92/93 octane", have it checked first with an accurate gauge then you will know how much to have milled, make sure the machine shop has done a re-squish,to the head,most places that do marine work already know that, put some flame arrestors on it and remove the oil injection.
    Install some bigger reeds, find the 1200 gp reeds and cages, the cages that the reeds sit in are actually longer and the reeds are bigger= more air flow, they fit perfect, just give you more flow.Then you can put on some carbon fiber reeds. Pull out the choke plates in your carbs,and plug off with the pre-mix kit. Even with the flame arrestors, leave the jetting stock--75 lows, put all 3 highs @107.5 turn out 1 turn on the lows and 1 1/2 on the highs, you will need to get an accurate tach to do this ,you will probably end up around 1 turn out for the highs, but all skis are different.

    Free items to do---
    Enlarge the hole "pisser", on the left side to 8mm ,
    Disconect the bilge hose on the left side of the pump facing it, look inside the pump at the back on the left, grind off that tube sticking out, and smooth it, apply some epoxy, or silicone.
    Put silicone on all the grate bolt holes and also the ride plate holes, (the stock ride plate makes this REALLY hard),
    Ride with the rear bucket removed from the back........
    (If you think your ski doesnt need air try this,leave the seat on, start it ,let it idle, then just using your lungs blow air into the intake tubes that look like vacuum cleaner hoses, the engine WILL stumble letting you know our skis could benifit from more air).

    Things not to do..........
    Never.........reuse intake gaskets more than once,and that is only if it still looks good.
    Do not remove the right side water box,it actually helps the ski, and isnt so loud

    Remember this ski can get fast quick, PRACTICE with it, it is not the best rough water handling ski out there , believe me, but after a while it seems that its not that bad,(at least for me), I have never had a person get off my Raider after riding in the chop and tell me that was boring.............

    Other members might chime in on what I forgot.........
    good luck and let us know.

  10. #10
    I know that this is an old post but what great information.... Thanks a lot bullraider....

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