08-22-2008, 11:37 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Many questions about sportster 4 tech jet boat. PLEASE help!
I purchased a 2004 sportster 4 tech 15 foot normally asperated (water damaged) jet boat.
#1 Is it possable to bypass the saftey switch?
I have gotten water out of the exhaust chambers but not removed the manifold. when I spin the motor without the plugs in the pistons seem fine,and the valves seem to be sealing well ,I had soaked both for a couple of days after removing the water. There doesnt seem to be water going to the bottom end. Question: once I reasemble the intake and spin motor under compresion will the small amount of water be blown out the exhaust or will it be sucked into the pistons?
The electrics(connections) and such don't seem to be curroded very badly, any input? Salt water.
The hull is damaged ( the boat sat on the rocks for a while in a bad storm) I have a buddy with a body shop and his guys say the can re glass it (NO PROBLEM) any cautions?
#5 The most important question of all!! Is all this worth it?
A little info to help answer that.
1. I paid very little for the boat.
2. it had 10 hours on it when it went down.(it was'nt running) when submerged.
3. I'ts got the waterskiing tower and bimini top.
4. I need to buy a trailor.
Any responses would be appreciated!!!!!!!!
08-22-2008, 01:04 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Odessa, TX
By safety switch do you mean the DESS lanyard?(item 13 in the parts breakdown)http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=139&B=28
The electronics will depend on time of exposure to a salt water you will always have that risk with a submerged vessel.
The only caution I have on reglassng the hull is that it is structural where as most automotive fiberglass panels are not.
Is it worth it? Depends on if you want the boat it should come out resonably fine, Sea Doo has plenty of experience with engines and electronics that can become submerged, from the jet skis and most components are shared.
09-01-2008, 03:21 PM #3
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
With regards to the connections and loom i would make it a priority to remove all connections and spray lots of sea-doo lube into them to prevent any further corrosion.
09-01-2008, 06:06 PM #4
my .02 would be to wash everything down with fresh water thoroughly and then spray with a water displacing lube like wd40 ro sea doo lube.
cleam insides of boxes behind panels etc.
engine needs to be run, but as darth daid was it already cranked with water in it??
you gotta check the oil level and color especially after you get it running.
how long did it sit with salt water in it, after it was salvaged??
under water was fine, but once brought up the air is what causes corrosion/damage
if it was washed and cleaned the first day after salvage, and dried out and started ASAP, oil changed a few times then it is well on the way to a full recovery, but if it sat wet and salty for a week while it dried out, you gotta expect internals of engine to be damaged, might run fine for a while but bearings etc will go sooner not later.
fiberglass work?? post a few pics, its probably not damaged enough to be structural, any good repair shop should be able to fix it up like new, however make sure they have done work on boats before, aka are familiar with gelcoat vs. paint finishing etc...
09-02-2008, 04:16 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By fitnessguy in forum 2-Stroke PerformanceReplies: 0Last Post: 07-01-2011, 02:39 PM
By 8 is enough in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 6Last Post: 04-07-2010, 02:54 PM
By cubsfan2516 in forum Polaris Open DiscussionReplies: 7Last Post: 03-16-2009, 11:19 AM
By SlowStang305 in forum Open DiscussionReplies: 19Last Post: 01-26-2009, 02:26 PM
By Shibby1485 in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 3Last Post: 09-19-2005, 02:18 PM