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Thread: SL 780 Update!

  1. #1
    brad148405's Avatar
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    SL 780 Update!

    Alright, here we go... finally got some more time to work on the ski, as some of you read in the past, It would not start or turn over, so I bought and installed a new bendix and starter, replaced old battery... Had a guy here who works on PWC's look it over and he replaced a few fuse and some bare wiring in the electrical box, now she finally starts!! took iot out today for a test, and she ran bad... at full throttle she would not budge past I would say 3-4000 RPMS, felt like it was only running on one cylinder, checked all cyl's and compression was good, but I did notice a red light on MFD came on which meant either, its a gas, oil, or heat issue. Had new gas and oil in it, didnt feel like a issue with heat when i popped it open didnt fell very hot, but did notice a extreme amount of smoke came out when I started it up.... lol. (It took on some water from the previous owner, we checked the engine over and its sound) My next step from here would be too check the water seperator and remove the grey wire correct? anything else that might be causing this? my MFD doesnt display any of my engines current statistics... I think I need to reset that as well... let me know brothers
    Last edited by brad148405; 08-25-2008 at 07:40 AM.


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    More than likely the float is bad. Try removing the grey wire and see what happens.

  3. #3
    brad148405's Avatar
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    Im assuming you mean the fuel float correct?

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    brad148405's Avatar
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    bump

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    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Yes the fuel float.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    More than likely the float is bad. Try removing the grey wire and see what happens.
    Quote Originally Posted by brad148405 View Post
    I'm assuming you mean the fuel float correct?
    Yes, the fuel sender float, inside the fuel tank.

    When the fuel level is low, the CDI can limit engine power and RPM. The grey wire carries the RPM limit signal to the CDI from the MFD. Disconnect the grey wire, and the CDI will always deliver full RPM.

    When you have diagnosed the problem, reconnect the grey wire, and correct the actual problem cause.

  7. #7
    brad148405's Avatar
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    would it be bad to permanently leave it off? will it cause problems in the long run? It didnt display a fuel error on my MFD, the red light just came on.

  8. #8
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad148405 View Post
    would it be bad to permanently leave it off? will it cause problems in the long run? It didnt display a fuel error on my MFD, the red light just came on.
    If you had an overheat condition, you wouldn't know till it was too late? Run low on oil w/ no warning?
    Pull the gray wire for testing only. Then put it back when you correct the problem.

  9. #9
    brad148405's Avatar
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    my redlight ont he MFD has ben on for that past day and a half... stays lit up... do I need to reset it if so.. whats the best way to do this?

  10. #10
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Check out post #4... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ighlight=reset

    Have ya ohmed out the fuel and oil sending units yet? when full they should measure about 33 ohms, and 240 ohms when empty.

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