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  1. #1
    It is What it is! Bulldogs101's Avatar
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    new sho, keeping spots off, before i get it

    considering the new sho, seriously considering it, however this time i would like to be able to keep the water spots off it and from etching in.

    any suggestions that really work??? want to start by doing something before it hits water the first time. it will be in the water 8 hours at a time, lake water, but 100+ desert sun beating down on it. so wiping it down is not an option as the mere fact of riding an hour or two with splashing and teh hot sun can etch alone... any tried and true methods to preventing it from starting!


  2. #2
    "Second place is really just the first loser." YSAVE's Avatar
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    maybe a couple good coats of wax??

  3. #3
    amharms's Avatar
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    I put a coat of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 (polymer wax) on after I cleaned the spots off last time. After being in the water all day Saturday in the TX sun, there's only minimal spotting, and they came off pretty well just rubbing lightly with a finger. Haven't tried washing it yet. Probably depends a lot on what kind of minerals you've got in the lake water.

    Someone else mentioned something-or-other 303 that you should put on *after* you wax it... might do a search for that.

  4. #4
    Flash's Avatar
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    Southwest area is really hard on a ski with waterspots. We have to work harder on keeping our skis etch free.

    AH was right, the polymer waxes are the best for harsh environments. Forget using waxes such as carnauba waxes...they are not top performers in hard water or salt.

    I use a polymer wax(these waxes coat your paint microscopically and actually jacket the pores). Next, I use Aerospace 303 and I wipe my entire ski down with it even floor mats and glass and trim...everything! wipe off excess film and you will be amazed at how this stuff keeps the hard water from attaching to the ski! When I come out of the lake water I use 50/50 water and white vinegar to wash down. I even spray some Salt Away (premixed in a bottle with water) over my ski and wash it down after rubbing the spots off. Final wash downI(I use soft water system for this) and then towel dry and Aerospace. Can't get any better.

  5. #5
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    I have had very good results wipnig it down with Aerospace 303.

  6. #6
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Get yourself some
    Duragloss #501 - Has lasted about 5 months/50hrs on my GPR
    Duragloss Aquawax - GO over the ski after a good washing with mild car soap (DG 901 is great) for added protection and bling
    Duragloss Vinyl and Rubber Protectant - Do a few coats 1 hr apart. Will keep the seat beading like the rest of the ski and will protect it from spots and UV


    All of these can also be used on your car. I am into detailing, and DG stuff outlasts stuff that I've spend $30 a bottle for. You can get DG from autogeek.net or your local Carquest might have it

  7. #7
    sourpower RXT's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    Southwest area is really hard on a ski with waterspots. We have to work harder on keeping our skis etch free.

    AH was right, the polymer waxes are the best for harsh environments. Forget using waxes such as carnauba waxes...they are not top performers in hard water or salt.

    I use a polymer wax(these waxes coat your paint microscopically and actually jacket the pores). Next, I use Aerospace 303 and I wipe my entire ski down with it even floor mats and glass and trim...everything! wipe off excess film and you will be amazed at how this stuff keeps the hard water from attaching to the ski! When I come out of the lake water I use 50/50 water and white vinegar to wash down. I even spray some Salt Away (premixed in a bottle with water) over my ski and wash it down after rubbing the spots off. Final wash downI(I use soft water system for this) and then towel dry and Aerospace. Can't get any better.
    +1 Polymer waxes are best to bead the water !

  8. #8
    enforcer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldogs101 View Post
    considering the new sho, seriously considering it, however this time i would like to be able to keep the water spots off it and from etching in.

    any suggestions that really work??? want to start by doing something before it hits water the first time. it will be in the water 8 hours at a time, lake water, but 100+ desert sun beating down on it. so wiping it down is not an option as the mere fact of riding an hour or two with splashing and teh hot sun can etch alone... any tried and true methods to preventing it from starting!

    USE LIMEAWAY. IT WORKS REALLY WELL AND NO MATER WHAT U DO U HAVE TO KEEP IT WAXED ALL THE TIME. THERE IS NO WAX ON THIS PLANET THAT WILL KEEP THE WATER SPOTS OFF.REMEMBER EVERYTIME U WASH YOUR SKI IT TAKES THE WAX OFF.

  9. #9
    Flash's Avatar
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    Aerospace 303 also can be used on your car. It's great for repelling dirt and dust. I wipe my truck down afterwards with it and it keeps it cleaner for longer length of time and when i do wash it again all I have to do is wet it and wipe without using soap!

  10. #10
    mikevv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldogs101 View Post
    considering the new sho, seriously considering it, however this time i would like to be able to keep the water spots off it and from etching in.

    any suggestions that really work??? want to start by doing something before it hits water the first time. it will be in the water 8 hours at a time, lake water, but 100+ desert sun beating down on it. so wiping it down is not an option as the mere fact of riding an hour or two with splashing and teh hot sun can etch alone... any tried and true methods to preventing it from starting!
    There are a lot of good ideas here on this forum and I have tried some of them. I always keep wax on my boats but my 2004 Yamaha FXHO had waterspots that I could not remove with wax or 303. I tried a 4 to 1 mix of water to white vinegar in a spray bottle and the 4 year old water spots melted away effortlessly. Cheap and effective.

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