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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow When a rubber bonded drive shaft coupler goes bad

    Symptoms
    - Engine revving too freely, with very little thrust above idle.
    (At first I thought I had picked up some weeds in the impeller, and it was cavitating)

    - Metallic ringing sound like a stripped gear (that can't be weeds!)

    - Lots of smelly smoke when the seat is lifted up!
    (First thought was a burned rubber exhaust hose, but that wouldn't make the engine rev without thrust)

    - Smoke was coming up from under/around the coupler cover.

    - 'Greasy' black bits all around under the coupler cover.

    Once it had cooled down for a couple of minutes, the smoke (which was clearly coming from underneath the coupler cover) had abated.

    Decided it was time for a tow. Clamped off the small exhaust water injection hose, and got towed back a mile or two to the ramp.

    The repair was straightforward enough, but the cleanup was very messy. The rubber shavings were like black carbon mixed with heavy grease. Touch it, and it smears and sticks to everything.

    I needed to use solvent and lots of rags, very tedious. Did I mention how messy it was?

    Remove jet pump and drive shaft after the initial clean-up.

    The splined metal center in the bonded coupler had worked itself rearward until it contacted the front face of the through-hull bearing. In order to unscrew the coupler, I needed to unclamp and flex the through-hull bearing aside.

    Put a short length of rope in PTO spark plug hole (rotated coupler anti-clockwise until I could feel compression with my thumb over the plug hole), then used a big wrench and hammer to loosen the coupler.

    Remove ugly burned up coupler, and finished the clean-up.

    Discovered that the rubber drive shaft bumper had gone missing, later found it hiding inside the old coupler, which now has a cavity since the rubber innards had shifted outwards.

    Removed the through-hull bearing, cleaned it up and cleaned out a lot of the old grease. Inspection showed that the forward seal was not damaged. Reinstalled through-hull bearing in hull.

    Install replacement coupler (which I just happened to have on hand, thanks to Sloanman!). Pumped plenty of synthetic waterproof grease into the spline area.

    Inspected drive shaft splines on both ends after cleaning the old grease off (looked just fine). Lots of grease into the impeller spline area, greased the O-ring, made sure both end bumpers were in place, inserted shaft into impeller, and put the jet pump back together.

    Pumped the through-hull bearing full of synthetic water proof grease, until it was oozing out the front seal. Wiped off the excess, and started the engine. Sounds much quieter out of the water. No metallic ringing sound from the impeller, which was quite noticeable before.

    I will add more grease after each ride, until I am confident the through-hull bearing has no air pockets remaining inside.
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  2. #2
    la90043's Avatar
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    yucky

    yucky

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    K, is this the same boat with the vibration...the post with the vid?

  4. #4
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Crankshaft runout is wacky. The problem will continue to move around until the crank is addressed..

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    K, is this the same boat with the vibration...the post with the vid?
    It is.

    I believe the failed coupler was the original. I do recall checking the pump alignment when I had the pump off shortly after I bought it. Slid right in, not a hint of binding. Ran great for several dozen hours in my hands until the coupler failed...

  6. #6
    Any idea on how to order these parts? I believe this may be my issue.

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    You can find used rubber bonded couplers on ebay. They are available new, but for around $250.

  8. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    When a solid metal drive shaft coupler goes bad

    This is what a failed solid metal coupler is like...

    Symptoms
    - Engine revving too freely, with very little thrust above idle.

    - Metallic ringing sound like a stripped gear

    - No smoke... no greasy mess...


    After years of jumping wakes... my solid metal coupler on my '94 SLT750 finally couldn't hang-on to my driveshaft anymore. They spun together and rounded each other out. Both coupler and driveshaft splines were badly worn and rounded and both parts had to be replaced.

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    I swapped in a newer style rubber bonded coupler and a new minty shorty (~20") driveshaft and all is right with the world again. Except I need to get the larger coupler cover to fit over the bigger coupler now. The newer driveshaft is slightly different... longer splined area at couple end and longer fat thru-hull area too... but works great for me!

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    Cheers!

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