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Thread: Prop Surface

  1. #1
    Johnjet's Avatar
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    Prop Surface

    polished for top speed ?
    rough for C/C ?

    getting prop rough should i use sand or bead blasting ?


  2. #2

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    Interesting question John - I don't know the answer. Might have some friends who do so i'll check around.

    My gut feeling is that smooth should be the way to go no matter what conditions you are riding in.

    A real world test wouldn't be usefull to find an answer, no matter how hard you try there are always going to be too many variables to give anything close to a meaningfull result. The lab would be the only way, or the old pen and paper and trust me I can't be bothered spending a few days working it out.

    If you have to try then bead blasting would be the way to go, sand would be far too coarse and damaging.

  3. #3
    ABBOTT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDog

    My gut feeling is that smooth should be the way to go no matter what conditions you are riding in.
    That is what i would have said too.

  4. #4
    Johnjet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABBOTT
    Quote Originally Posted by KDog

    My gut feeling is that smooth should be the way to go no matter what conditions you are riding in.
    That is what i would have said too.
    smooth polish or smooth with polish off

  5. #5
    flyboy's Avatar
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    no polish, not shiny, dull and feels like 2000 grit paper to the touch = fast, with good hookup

  6. #6

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    Yeah smooth, not polished. 1200grit should be fine.

  7. #7

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    The face of a prop. needs to be slightly 'rough' to be at it's most efficient.

    The 1200 paper trick on the face is probably the best shot. The paper rubbed from hub to tip, or tip to hub---not L.E. (leading edge) to T.E. (trailing edge).

    The back of the prop. can be as shiny as you like.

    You can also JUST take the sharpness OFF the L.E. a fraction too.

    The 'rough' front of the prop. makes for turbulance, that if you like, 'suck's the thing foward more efficiently.

    As the two Aussies here know, l fly competition Freeflight model aircraft, and these tricks have been proved to make a prop. on a model work better, be it a very slow revving one on a big rubber powered model (approx. 750 rpm) or a high power fast revving nitro burner (approx 28,000 rpm) l.C. engine.

    We sometimes even turbulate the face of the prop on the slow revvers by glueing a cotton thread on the face just in from the L.E. tip to hub.

    There are of course so many variables though---are'nt there???
    You can fiddle and play about for ever---if ya wish.

  8. #8
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    any more new information over this topic guys.......


    I guess we could possbly include the stator vein surface too ?

  9. #9
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    RX, you must be bored.... you have been diggin up old posts all week, haven't you?

    Glad you are though.... I'm reading stuff I missed before, and looking for the answers.

  10. #10
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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