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  1. #1
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Cure for PTO rubbing on coil box......................

    I was thinking about using 5200 and a thin piece of metal?I would like to relocate the box to do it right.


  2. #2
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Take your intermeddiate shaft, and press it forward in the bearing assembly about 1/8"... and the engine goes forward, an 1/8" too, and the problem is forever gone, with no further concerns.

  3. #3
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Pull the shaft,press it,loosen motor mounts?

  4. #4
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Yup, and of course anything like exhaust pipe couplers that may need to go forward.

    I had my rear pipe RUBBING on the box, and realized, I had pressed it in too far. I put it back to where it should have been (lots of work) and it's been stellar ever since...

  5. #5
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help hydro.

  6. #6
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    What is WEST COAST WATERCRAFT, Kevin?

  7. #7
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Its a new west coast club that me and RXPkiller have started a month ago.Desert Dash will be the first event.Just trying to get as many west coasters as we can,set up a small webpage with pics and events and such.The US is too big for everyone to play in 1 spot.

  8. #8
    Pistonwash's Avatar
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    I did the same thing that Mark did, never had a problem.

  9. #9
    GPR114's Avatar
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    Another suggestion if you haven't already done this. Loosen the motor mounts. Remove the pump. Old drive shaft, brass hammer, drive the intermediate shaft forward . You may have to hit it harder than you would think but we just did this on another forum members boat and took up about 3/8ths of an inch play between the couplers. We actually used a good drive shaft and didn't do any damage. Whole lot easier than taking out the intermediate shaft. We also do this if the prop is rubbing on the stator vein housing. Just loosen the nut and drive it forward. Key is the brass hammer.

  10. #10
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    I'm SURE it's the easiest.

    On the other hand, that brass drift will protect the shaft, but it won't protect the coupler housing with the vulcanized rubber seal. Maybe you could find some type of spacer to prevent the rubber piece from getting jarred forward on each hit???

    I dunno, but that is a pretty spendy piece...I'm sure busting the stringer wall isn't cheap either.

    If I was in a jam, at the lake, I'd do it. If I had a race the next day, I'd do it. However, If I had the time, I'd yank it out and press it forward. But that's just me.

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