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  1. #1
    RonJon's Avatar
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    15F Cooling Issue

    My 08 15F seems to run a bit hotter than it used to. When crusing a used to be able to hold my foot in front of the pisser bypass and water coming out was pretty warm... Now for some reason it feels hotter. My foot gets uncomfortable after about 5 seconds. When i lift up the seat the intake manafold is hot and so is the head and exhaust. Head and intake always used to be warm, but not that warm. exhaust used to be cool to the touch but now is pretty warm too.

    I have no leaks and i removed the cooling-water intake thingy on top of the pump and there was no sand or debris. Checked all hoses. Ski is bone stock. 67 hrs. oil level is good, changed every 20 hrs. flushed every time. water temp is same as it always has been 85*. Never had the overheat buzzer go off, it just seems hotter than before. I always ride in deep water.

    My Question: Is there a way I can increase the cooling water flow slightly?


  2. #2
    If all the fittings/hoses are clear of obstruction, then the water jacket inside the engine/exh pipe could be partially clogged up with salt/mineral deposits.

  3. #3
    RonJon's Avatar
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    So how can i fix that without tearing apart the exhaust?

    I've put a good 20 hrs on the ski since the problem started so it's been flushed on the hose at least 5-6 times. you'd think it would have blown it out already...?

  4. #4
    See those tiny cooling water passage holes on the head gasket on my 15F engine? They can easily clog up with just right size debris. When stuck tight, flushing w/ hose is not gonna blow it out. If you are riding in salt water, using SaltAway is a MUST right after done riding. I sometimes hook up a compressed air into the flush fitting and blow out. Try that and if your ski still overheats, you need to what I did - take apart. At that time, you can do valve clearance check/adjustment, deep carbon cleaning of pistons, etc.


  5. #5
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    BTW I'm not getting an overheat warning or buzzer... I was only going by the feel of hot water coming out of the bypass. I may be wrong, but it feels a bit hotter than it did during the first 20 hrs of operation.

  6. #6
    The effective size of the cooling water passages would be getting only smaller as you use the ski due to deposit accumulation (just like your blood veins), so the engine would run always at higher temp than before.

  7. #7
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Is there a way to remove those deposits, even the slight accumulation of salt OTHER than taking it appart?

    Will salt-away help at all?

    BTW, why did you take your motor apart and how many hours did it have on it when you took the pic?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by RonJon View Post
    Is there a way to remove those deposits, even the slight accumulation of salt OTHER than taking it appart?

    Will salt-away help at all?
    I don't think Salt-Away will do any good AFTER solidification of the salt. It will not remove hard deposits. I had to chisle it out like a dentist wold do. Then vacuum out the fallen debris, like a dentist would do. I wonder if those hardwater deposit removing chemical something like LRC would do. ??? The best way is the prevention - flush even after riding in fresh water, and a MUST after salt water.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonJon View Post
    BTW, why did you take your motor apart and how many hours did it have on it when you took the pic?
    That 15F engine had about 80 hrs and began to run really bad with lots of top end noise. One of the exhaust valve tappets (aka bucket) was deeply groved by the cam lobe, as shown below on the right - dished out. I don't think it was a lubrication problem because all the other 15 tappets looked just fine (shown next to it). Also, the cam lobe on the dished tappet was slightly flattened at both corners, next photo. After a new tappet and a new cam shaft, ski runs like new again.




  9. #9
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Any idea what would cause something like that?

    Oh and BTW, what's your opinion on using Marvel Mistery Oil. 4oz for every 10 gal of gas. It says it's made to lubricate upper cylinder walls and help reduce deposits. I've heard a mechanic swear by it. What about for this motor?

    One last thing: How necessary is it to have valve clearence checked/adjusted and when?
    Why Kawi not just use hydrolic lifters? Cost! ugh!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by RonJon View Post
    Any idea what would cause something like that?

    Oh and BTW, what's your opinion on using Marvel Mistery Oil. 4oz for every 10 gal of gas. It says it's made to lubricate upper cylinder walls and help reduce deposits. I've heard a mechanic swear by it. What about for this motor?

    One last thing: How necessary is it to have valve clearence checked/adjusted and when?
    Why Kawi not just use hydrolic lifters? Cost! ugh!
    Hi Chaps,

    I am a Kawai dealer here in the UK, we have found a now known issue with the 15F exhaust routing which causes an over heat ifnot serviced.

    Under the rear waterbox, there is a seriesof water pipes which converge into a brass fitting. If used in salt water, this fitting WILL furr up even if flushed with fresh water. Its a chemical reaction with the fitting which is made of BRASS

    Remove enough bits to remove the rear can and clean it out, job done.

    You will find that the pisser runs normal until the motor is warmed up, then at anything over 1/4 throttle cooling is ok, as soon as you come off throttle..........you WILL boil.

    OM

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