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  1. #1

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    To fill or not To fill that is the question

    HEy everyone,

    Ok so I have been looking at the winterizing posts on here and know that i dont need to flush the system with anit-freeze even if its stored outdoors since it is self draining and all I have to do is fog the engine and call it done for the season.

    However i know there are two thougths with the gas tank...one is to fill it and add stabilizer and the other is to have it low and stabilizer......what do people do generally on here.....

    thoughts


  2. #2
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    My preference is to Sta-Bil it and fill it. No room left for air and condensation to form and add moisture to the gas.

  3. #3
    kept full with stablizer, no problems 4-tec 2003 and a 4-tec 2006 are my skis

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Winterize - fuel tank should be full

    The consensus seems to be that a small amount of fuel in the bottom of the gas tank, stabilized or not, is not a good thing. The large air pocket above the fuel is the problem.

    If you completely drain and dry the fuel tank, then it is a different story, since you can air out the empty tank in the spring and it will be dry before you add new fuel.

    As air temperatures fluctuate up and down each day, the air inside the tank expands and contracts, drawing outside air into the tank through the tank vents. The moisture in that air condenses and drops into the fuel. The smaller the air pocket, the less moisture is drawn in.

    Properly stabilized, a full tank of fresh non-Ethanol premium octane gasoline is the best situation. Very small air pocket to minimize water condensation, no Ethanol to attract moisture, and strongly stabilized to resist degradation.

    The higher octane helps ensure that even if the fuel has slightly degraded over the winter, it will still be good enough to run the engine without trouble next spring.

    You should run the engine (on the water if you can) to ensure the stabilized fuel has circulated through the entire fuel system.

    The engine cooling system is self draining, but do tilt the nose of the trailer up as high as you can get it, and rev the engine in short bursts to push excess water out of the waterbox. If your store it with the nose high, the footwells will drain any rainwater that may get under the cover.

    If you have a fuel selector, turn the fuel off and then run the engine until the carbs are dry.

    If you have a water/fuel separator, ensure it has zero water inside. Some folks remove and drain the separator, then reinstall it empty for storage.

    Wash, drain and dry the hull interior. Then spray Fluid Film or similar (not WD-40) lightly onto all the metal parts.

    Fog the engine air intakes (carbs) during the last engine run, then spray a small amount of fogging oil inside each spark plug hole, hand rotate the engine a couple of turns (not using the starter), and re-insert the spark plugs.

    If you can, store it with the seat propped open a half inch or so, to allow ventilation during storage. Make sure small creatures cannot get in and make their home inside the hull over the winter. Also keep rain water out.

    If you can, take the battery out of the hull. Store it somewhere cool and dry, and connect it to a battery maintainer, like the www.VDCelectronics.com models. A battery maintainer will not overcharge the battery (which can kill a battery just as fast as letting it over-discharge). The better ones also work against sulfation, thereby extending the battery lifespan.

    If you leave the battery in the hull, it should still be connected to a battery maintainer, regardless of whether you disconnect the battery cables. Spray Fluid Film or similar on the battery posts and the ends of the cables.

    I am sure the other winterizing threads have some more points...
    Last edited by K447; 09-29-2008 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Battery treatment

  5. #5
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    I drain the tank completely and leave the gas cap on loose...never a problem.

  6. #6
    Race, wreck, repeat delagem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paramuir View Post
    HEy everyone,

    Ok so I have been looking at the winterizing posts on here and know that i dont need to flush the system with anit-freeze even if its stored outdoors since it is self draining
    Self Draining? I just swapped out my waterbox for an aftermarket last week, and was surprised at how much water was in there! The thought of that waterbox, 1/3 full of water, freezing, scares me.

    I always add RV antifreeze to my skis, both the old one (that now has a newer motor and doesn't hold water in the lower block) and the newer ones.

    I've seen what happens to racebikes that were "drained" of water, I'm never going to let that happen to any of my machines!

    What's $3 for peace of mind?

    Michael

  7. #7
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    You forgot the battery! and lube the battery terminals with grease or vaseline to keep them steel color instead of rust! nothing more frustrating than putting fresh gas in, going to the lake and the battery terminals are rusted and you have no sandpaper with ya at the dock..errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr hate when that happens.lol

  8. #8
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    My preference is to Sta-Bil it and fill it. No room left for air and condensation to form and add moisture to the gas.
    x2

    I also run it to get the sta-bil fuel thru the carbs

  9. #9
    seaobin's Avatar
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    You mean you guys don't take them apart every winter and rebuild them

  10. #10
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaobin View Post
    You mean you guys don't take them apart every winter and rebuild them
    I try not to. Do you?

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