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  1. #1

    Triple piper lacks speed. Recommendations?

    Hey fellas I need some advice.
    My 1200R triple piper can barely beat a stock RXP
    I'm pulling plenty of RPM's (over 7800) so I'm guessing my pump setup is all wrong.
    Any recommendations?
    Should I go back to a stock pump?

    Engine is fresh
    New OEM crank seals
    lightened T&W crank
    crank case cooling
    800 cylinders
    Riva Pro-Series girdled heads
    37cc domes
    Compression (Snap-on) 150psi PV open 170psi PV closed
    ProX pistons 0.50mm oversize
    Crank snout support bearing fitted

    Stock carbs (RPM modified)
    Accelerator pump removed
    Manifold crossovers blocked off
    Riva reed stuffers
    Carbon Tech reeds
    Riva Flame Arrestors & pre-filters
    Dual fuel lines
    Large fuel filters

    Advent ignition set at Triple Pipe & Race Gas
    Accel 8mm copper spark plug leads
    R&D power valves
    stock electric YPVS set to open at 5600 rpm

    SpeedWerx triple pipes
    stock water box
    free flow
    Jetworks pro-series flow valves
    Dual cooling

    Skat-trak 12 vein 1"" setback pump
    GP1300R 2" pump extension
    Prop Skat-trak 14/20
    Stock nozzle with veins removed
    Riva auto drop nozzle
    Riva 2bar scoop grate
    Riva rideplate
    Riva trim tabs
    Riva mechanical trim tabs

    Gas 50/50 91oct / 100oct
    Castor 32:1

    Engine did a mid-range soft seize using this jetting spec
    P115 M150 2.0NS 80grm spring
    Low 1 High 1
    Pulling 7840 RPM

    Have just fitted a new piston and rejetted carbs
    Carbs P130 M150 2.3NS 80gram sping
    Low 1T High 2T
    To be tested


  2. #2
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    What's the rpms:
    You never did say.

    Ignition:
    Race gas curve? Are you running race gas?

    Riva auto drop nozzle :
    It's pretty common to see the "Auto Drop" nozzle adjusted too far down, or too tight on the side turning bars. Make sure it is adjusted according to the nozzle.

    800 cylinders:
    Just from looking at your setup, I'd say you are running 72-73 max. Plus, those 800 cylinders generate a TON of heat. They are great for explosive power, but if you run at 150psi, keep some good gas in it. You might consider backing off your squish tolerance.

    Pump:
    Yeah that pump is made for rough water. Are you racing it closed course? If so, don't worry about it. If all you do is go grudge race your buddies rxp, you'd be better off with a stock pump. You MIGHT be able to pull that skat prop off, keep the skat pump, and put a new Dyna-Fly 14/20 prop on a gain quite a bit of top end and not lose so much bottom end.

  3. #3
    Cylinders are running warm only.
    What sort of gain should I expect from a stock pump & Dyna-Fly prop?


    Gas 50/50 91oct / 100oct
    Castor 32:1

    Engine did a mid-range soft seize using this jetting spec
    P115 M150 2.0NS 80grm spring
    Low 1 High 1
    Pulling 7840 RPM

    Have just fitted a new piston and rejetted carbs
    Carbs P130 M150 2.3NS 80gram sping
    Low 1T High 2T
    To be tested

  4. #4
    Pistonwash's Avatar
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    Florida
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    Auto-drop is costing you speed, so is the Skat 12 vein. Thats about 5 mph right there. If you are not racing closed course IJSBA, you might want to look into the Kerry/Fernando speed package. You should be able to be hit near or on 80mph with the package.

    There are plenty of opinions and advice to had here...but for speed, we have a pretty tight set-up with the Kerrynando kit. Research the board a little and I'm sure you find what you are looking for.

  5. #5
    ABBOTT's Avatar
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    is this a 1200cc or a 1300cc engine? My question is why would he only be near 80 when the single pipes out there with the package are hitting that number and some efi singles without porting are very close already??

    I would think that a tripple 1300 setup with the package on there would be well past 80. Just wondering-

  6. #6
    Sorry, forgot to add that it's a 1200

  7. #7
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    I think Mark is right the Skat set-up just isn't very good for grudge racing. I would simply get a second pump set-up. I'd suggest the second pump should be a 2004 or 2005 FX HO pump and use a Solas Dynafly 14/20 impeller with either a GP1200R or FX HO pump nozzle. If you already have a OEM GP1200R pump you could use it with a Solas Concord 14/20.

    This second pump set-up will be 5-6 mph faster and the holeshot and hook-up while not quite as good as the Skat will be OK

    Which nozzle are you using that has had the veins removed? GPR or XL? If XL, use a GP1200R nozzle with the OEM FX HO pump.

    We are all using modified rideplates. We grind down the rear mounts and also grind on the bottom of the pump and pump nozzle to increase the angle. This will cause the ski to porpoise so you will also need to shim down the trim tabs (1 or 2 washers under all 8 bolts) to stabilize the ski.

    Some of us also get the skegs machined off the bottom of the rideplate.

    I would think with an OEM GPR pump nozzle the auto-drop is fine - just makes sure as already suggested that it isn't adjusted with the nozzle down when the handlebars are in the neutral position. The OEM steering nozzle might be marginally faster because with it you can trim up. In the 75-77mph range 1 clic up on the trim tends to be the best set-up.

    So swap out the pump and wave good bye to your buddy on the RXP!

  8. #8
    GPRPITMAN's Avatar
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    Both props will have to be re-pitched with this set up the dyna fly can be repitched to around 13-19 the concord will have to go to a 12-18 around those numbers is were I was running my tripple with similar set up over 80 with both setups,This is a base number you can start with but should be close

  9. #9
    This great information, guys.
    Thank you.

    The nozzle is a stock GP1200R. I snapped off all the veins and then filed them down.

    The rideplate is unshimmed and the ski does want to porpise at lower speeds. But the mechanical trim tabs help sort that at.

    I have a stock pump I just need to get a driveshaft for it. I'll order one tomorrow. and I have a range of Solas props 13/19SB, 13/20, 14/20 to play with.

    By the way, Philip how's your ski coming along?
    (This is Craig from Las Vegas. You bought the Novi 48's from me.)

  10. #10
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    The nozzle is a stock GP1200R. I snapped off all the veins and then filed them down.
    I tried this once. I found the fins to help both hookup and top speed, as long as they match the pump. Since you have a 12vien, I'd assume they didn't match the pump.

    That autodrop nozzle adjustment is very critical to top speed.

    You have mech trim tabs? Ahhh, another area of speed is hidden there. Most folks will tell you take them off. I come from a different camp. I love 'em!
    -if you still have your stock trim tabs, remove one of the mech tabs and compare, with a caliper, the thickness differences between the two. If the mech tabs are say....10mm thicker than stock tabs, then you might want to consider cutting a little of the thickness off, so that you can shim them up or down. Best of both worlds.
    - AFTER the above, I adjust mine, by using the lanyard to clamp them down at the handlebar. I then adjust them out back using a straight edge, and adjust them UP off the straight edge by .050 if possible. You may need to take your verticle adjustment jacks off and saw a tad off to get further adjustment. This should put them out of the way, during high speed runs.

    ***IF YOU DECIDE TO REMOVE YOUR MECH TRIM TABS, I'LL BUY THEM FROM YOU ASAP, IF NOT SOONER***

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