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  1. #1

    EFI Controller Ground

    This has been covered before, but it just happened to me. The EFI controller ground wire broke right where it is crimped onto the eyelet. Vibration fatigue causes the strands of copper to break inside the insulation.
    One of mine broke completely off and im lucky it was on my non ported 06, didnt seem to hurt it, compression is still good even though it ran super lean by looking at the pistons. This happened while someone else was riding my ski so i didnt notice the performance change. Found it upon clean up of the ski after riding for the day.
    The other controller ground on my 1390 looked good, until i cut the eyelet off for a closer look. Half of the wire strands on it were internally broken and hidden inside the insulation.
    The ground wire is a small 14-16 gauge wire and cannot handle much back and forth flexing action before breaking wire strands inside.
    Take a 10-12 gauge wire, solder/splice it onto the existing 16 gauge ground wire, then use a 10-12 gauge eyelet and solder it on the other end for your ground connection to the engine.
    A 10-12 gauge wire will be much more resistant to breaking internally from vibration, especially if you solder back 1/2 to 1 inch from the ground eyelet on the wire also. This stiffens the wire and should stop any future breakage.
    I strongly reccomend everyone do this, even on a new controller. If you lose the controller from a ground failure on a ported 1300 or 1390 you will certainly suffer engine damage.
    Ross


  2. #2
    Duke's Avatar
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    Good post Ross! Seen a few over here fail.

    Wouldn't take long to kill a ported motor.

  3. #3
    I challenge everyone to make this 20 minute/5 dollar fix, then post the results on how bad the old connection was upon closer inspection.
    The engine you save will be your own..

  4. #4
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    gotta confess i think my ported ski blew due to a kink/slight cut in the ground wire only found yesterday as i was installing everyrthing back up for its first run,will never know for sure so i did the mod ross is talking about so piece of mind

  5. #5
    alex29573's Avatar
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    this is what happened to the ported cylinders im selling in the classifieds section

  6. #6
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Thanks Ross for reminding us of this very important issue, doing mine before the next ride!

  7. #7
    Thats why i want to challenge everyone to (do it now).. I kicked it to the curb and forgot about it also, and almost cost myself a motor..Even if it looks good from the outside, its probably not...

  8. #8
    L Carlson's Avatar
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    Great post Ross! Will do on my new build Thanks Lee

  9. #9
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    I bolt the ground to where the oil relief screw goes, the bracket that holds the oil line from the oil pump. I think zip tied it to the bracket so that it doesn't move. This will help with that as well. I ziptied it in a few different places against the motor and along side going up to the efi controller.
    SHOOTER

  10. #10
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter98xpl View Post
    I bolt the ground to where the oil relief screw goes, the bracket that holds the oil line from the oil pump. I think zip tied it to the bracket so that it doesn't move. This will help with that as well. I ziptied it in a few different places against the motor and along side going up to the efi controller.
    SHOOTER
    that will definately help and keep it from vibrating out quicker but it still is in vibration with the motor, and FYI, the casted part of the block that the bracket you are refering to is mounted actually broke on mine. pulled the seat off one day and theirs the oil bleed line still attached to the bracket laying in the bottom of the hull! if you look where the oil bleed line bracket is mounted the cast in the block is very small and hence fragile. if that were to happen you would lose efi controller function even if the ground wire didn't break.

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