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  1. #1

    Unhappy Oil Pump lever problem

    Hello, please forgive my English, I will do my best. I have a Polaris Genesis i 2001 and today I had a mechanic putting two bolts that holds the motor to the mounting base. To do that, he removed almost everything that was connected to the motor including the throttle cable and the oil lines that goes to the engine from the pump. When he assembled everything back together by mistake he positioned the oil pump lever wrong. We did not noticed the problem until we started the engine and in less than 20 seconds at idle speed it started to light up Check Engine and when off. As soon as I noticed it I fixed the pump lever and try ed to start the engine back again. The engine start without a problem but the check engine light goes back on again. I'm afraid to start the engine back again, do I need to prime the oil pump? Or do I only need to start the engine and open the oil lever at full throttle at idle speed until the oil start to flow into the engine?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!

    Click here for the 2002 Polaris Service Manual.
    We do not have a 2001 manual available yet.

    The Check Engine Light is not caused by the oil pump.
    The oil pump can not cause the Check Engine light.

    Something else is wrong. Check all electrical connections to the engine, and to the EMM computer.

    The Oil pump hoses should be primed with oil. To protect the engine, dribble a small amount of 2-stroke oil down each of the three air intakes. Then start the engine, and use your hand to move the oil pump arm to 100% open, while the engine is at IDLE.

    This should cause the oil pump to more quickly pump the air bubbles out, and get the oil to the engine. You may need to do add some more oil to the air intakes a couple of times while the engine idles, until you are SURE the oil is being pumped into the engine. You should be able to see the air bubbles move through the hose while you are holding the pump arm at 100%

    The engine should idle at 1150RPM, and be a smooth idle. If it is not a smooth idle at 1150RPM, then there is a problem. Check spark plugs, fuel injector connectors, TPS and CPS connectors. Make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight.

    If you do not find the problem, post a reply here and we will try to guide you with more diagnostics.

  3. #3
    la90043's Avatar
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    the check engine light comes on when the motor is running too hot or when its low on oil. check the oil level at the oil tank. fill it with oil. do not run the motor while out of the water for more than 30 seconds.

    regarding the oil pump. if you think there can be air in the oil pump or air the the oil lines, disconnect the pump lever from the oil pump and use the boat like that for a few rides.

    also you can disconnect the oil pump lever from the oil pump so that its at the wide open position and then you can open/loosen the bleed screw to let any air that can be in there.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by la90043 View Post
    the check engine light comes on when the motor is running too hot or when its low on oil....
    I think this is a fuel injected engine, so the EMM controls the Check Engine light and warning display.

    Good point about just running with the oil pump arm disconnected. The oil pump will go to 100% oil flow if the cable is disconnected, as a safety mode to prevent oil starvation.

    Be sure to connect water cooling, or put the boat in the water, if running the engine for more than 15 seconds. When running without water, let the engine cool down for several minutes between each run of 15 seconds.

  5. #5
    Perfect, I'm going to try the suggestion tomorrow. I will let you know the result.

    Thanks.

  6. #6
    First I prime and started the engine with the lever at full throttle and the engine started to burn oil perfectly.

    Then I notice that the engine was not running smooth. Looking around I found that the MAG and CEN spark plug cable were inverted. I fix then and now the engine is running grate!! Maybe that was the cause of the Check engine light to come on?

    The only problem I have now is that the check engine light is not turning off!
    I first checked all the terminal connections to be properly connected, then I checked the fuse box to see anything abnormal but everything looks good (fuse were fine). Tryed to disconnect the battery terminal for two minutes to see if I could reset the EMM microprocessor but almost immediatly after I start the engine it comes back on again. Do you know if this may be cause by some other condition or because it need to be reset with the software?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The Red light tells you to read the message on the display. The displayed message tells you what the warning is about.

    Check Engine message appears when there is a current problem. I do not know of any 'reset' procedure. The warning should go away as soon as the last problem goes away.

    If the Check Engine message is still appearing, then the EMM is not happy about something regarding the engine operation.

    You may have more than one problem happening. Until all the problems are corrected, the engine will not run properly.

    Does the Check Engine message appear when the engine is just idling, right after starting?
    What RPM is the engine reporting at idle?

    Did you check fuel pressure?

    Please tell us what checks you have done, and what the results were.

    You say the engine is now running well. Have you tested it in the water?

    Peak engine RPM should be close to 6900RPM, in the water at full power. Throttle response should be smooth and even, with no jumps in power as the thumb throttle lever is squeezed.

  8. #8
    The check engine light appears immediately after starting at idle speed (1000 RPM) out of the water.
    I haven't have the chance to test it in the water yet. I haven't check the fuel pressure, I don't have a gauge, I need to get one.

    So far I have check:

    -The fuse box for any blown fuse.
    -Spark Plug cable position (found out that two were inverted).
    -checked for good connections between spark plug cables and coil.
    -Terminal connector well secure at the EMM.
    -Engine Temperature seems to be good (by touching the engine with my hand felt it only warm)
    -If I accelerate the engine it will respond perfectly with no jumps (out of the water) RPM goes above 5000 without a problem. Fumes looks fine.
    -Spark plug are new (the correct one according to the owners manual and the old spark plugs)
    -I also tested with the old spark plug but the light continues to light on.



    IS there something I can check for until I get the fuel pressure gauge?

    Thanks

  9. #9
    I finally found the problem that was causing the check engine light to activate. It was a loose connection of the air temperature sensor located under the throttle body. Very difficult to see. Obviously this was causing a fault at the EMM. My Jet Ski is back running perfectly!!!

    Thanks a lot to K447 and LA90043 for their inputs.


  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jealthotru View Post
    I finally found the problem that was causing the check engine light to activate.
    It was a loose connection of the air temperature sensor located under the throttle body. Very difficult to see. Obviously this was causing a fault at the EMM.
    My Jet Ski is back running perfectly!...
    Glad to hear you got it fixed!

    Was the connector just not plugged together properly?

    By now you should have checked EVERY electrical connection. If there are a few you didn't check because you found the air temp sensor problem, take the time to check the rest.

    Better to find a potential problem now, than later out on the water.

    Enjoy your ride

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