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  1. #1

    Winterizing my 98 GSX Limited

    Its that time unfortunately

    How do i go about winterizing my 951? Ive never done it before ...


  2. #2

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by radeon View Post
    Its that time unfortunately

    How do i go about winterizing my 951? Ive never done it before ...
    Fog it... carbs

    pour a tablespoon of oil down the spark plug holes reinstall and crank over a few times (not running) (optional)

    Stable in the Fuel

    disconnect and Charge battery


    cover in a warm dry place....

    (if you have any moisture in the hull you can run a small light bulb 40W on a shop light to give off a little heat and dry things out.)


    Chime in guys if i left anything out.... or there is anything that is incorrect.

  3. #3
    race24x's Avatar
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    I tip my trailer way up and run them for a second to try and get the water out of the waterbox as much as possible and I pull the hose off the head put a funnel in it and pour in some RV antifreeze. I read somewhere about water in the block by the bottom of the cylinders squeezing them and causing problems. What do you guys think

  4. #4
    Pwgsx's Avatar
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    change out the pump oil too

  5. #5
    Come rain, snow and hail all I do is I pull the hose off the head pour some antifreeze in too. Been doing that since 1996 on the GTI and 1998 on GSXL. Both ski's live outside and never had a problem.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Pwgsx View Post
    change out the pump oil too
    Just did this last month!

    PS anyone wanna buy me ski its for sale! haha

    New Pump, Rebuilt Carbs, Rebuilt Motor, New Fuel lines

    Solas
    50cc Dome head
    Trailer!

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Here is a detailed procedure that I do to mine, I feel a little better than factory recommended.

    First off...crank on the trailer, and try to blow out as much water as you can get. I try this over a couple days prior, just go out ramdomly and crank it and rev it a few times.

    After this-turn the gas off and run all the gas out of the carbs. This prevents fuel from varnishing in the small orifices over the winter. I did this on my 2000 XPL when it was totalled, and disassembled the carbs 15 months later when I found another hull to swap engines into. The carbs looked brand-new inside, no residue whatsoever.

    The critical thing to remember is...it will try to lean-rev on you. When the rpms start climbing pull the choke to maintain rpms. When it gets to 4k kill the engine. Wait a few seconds, then restart fully choked. Then kill again. Don't let the rpms climb above 4k, or it will glow-plug and damage engine internals. Pull the spark plugs out, ground the wires to the studs on the coil, and zip-tie the thottle wide open. Fog into your flame arrestors or carbs to coat the crank and rod bearings. Spray while turning the engine over, to suck it in. I do about 15-30 seconds on each cylinder. Then I spray into the spark plug holes, bump engine over quickly, then spray once more. This gets the rings thoroughly coated with the first engine bump, then you coat the cylinders with the last spray. Leave the spark plugs out. So any condensation that may come up from the pipe will have a vent to escape, instead of condensing in your cylinders.

    Disconnect your battery, and hopefully you have a Battery Tender to attach it to.

    Change pump oil, inspect wear ring and prop while you have the pump off.

    Leave seat loose and/or rear cover, or hood open. Remove trays and/or buckets to provide as much ventilation as possible to the inside of the hull. Try to find an indoor space to store it. If you have to store it outside, try to find a place that is shaded by a roof to prevent direct sunlight from hitting the hull. This is important, as when the temps dip below 50 degrees and in the morning when the sun hits the hull, the air temp inside the hull climbs quickly. The engine temperature does not. So until it does, it condenses and sweats, inside and out. Every day. Not good for the engine.

    As has been posted before, a light bulb works great inside the hull if stored outside. I use this alot, as it only gets below feezing here (at least low enough to worry about freezing your engine) a few days out of the year.

    951 Antifreeze- Pull the top hose on the head of the engine and pour about 1 pint into the engine. Reattach. Job done.

    800 Antifreeze- Remove the out hose on the rear of the head, this hose contains the flush tee. Lift and pour in antifreeze until it drips from your exhaust (less than a quart). Job done.

  8. #8

    Smile

    QUOTE FROM ABOVE"""{{{Here is a detailed procedure that I do to mine, I feel a little better than factory recommended.
    First off...crank on the trailer, and try to blow out as much water as you can get. I try this over a couple days prior, just go out ramdomly and crank it and rev it a few times.
    After this-turn the gas off and run all the gas out of the carbs. This prevents fuel from varnishing in the small orifices over the winter. I did this on my 2000 XPL when it was totalled, and disassembled the carbs 15 months later when I found another hull to swap engines into. The carbs looked brand-new inside, no residue whatsoever."" }}}
    I for one never run the carbs dry ,first before you start it, make sure you only have a couple of gallons of fuel,then add double the amt of stabil red not the blue(trust me) then remove fuel filter clean and add about a inch of stabil into it directly, screw it back in place,start engine and run it 15 to 25 seconds blipping throttle,until it starts smoking like crazy ,shut it down.change pump oil, grease all cables fittings,pour antifreeze in block. OK Then a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder spin engine over a few times, put plugs back in disconnect batt. youre good to go.THE REASON YOU DO NOT RUN CARBS DRY is they have plastic and rubber pieces that need to stay moist drying them out is no good,for old style float bowl carb ok ,for a mikuni or keihin constant flow with a return line and no float bowl not ok.THe extra stabil will keep carb parts moist, no varnish, no stuck needle and seat, no stuck diaphram.HOPE this helps I have customers running 1992 gt and 93s never been overhauled,OK fresh rings and pistons in 93gtxs 580 twin carbs.hope this helps works for all skis>Marvin

  9. #9
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Alright...lets discuss your opinion. Our skis, when new, sit in a crate. The carbs are dry, the fuel systems are dry. My 96 sat in a crate for three years until I bought it in December of 1998. It was manufactured December of 1995. It still has the original needles & seats. I use an aftermarket Bombardier fuel pump now, so the rubber grommets for the mica check valves aren't used anymore.

    When you buy new needle and seats from Mikuni, are they shipped saturated in gas? Are the rubber grommets and mica check valves? I don't think so.

    Drying them out is not going to shorten the life of them. All Doos are test run at the factory, then they puposely drain the fuel systems as they cannot ship them legally. For a fuel system to sit dry from BRP is enough proof to me that the parts will not dry out or be damaged. Plus my ski sitting 15 months dry after running saturated for 6.5 years.

    Although I agree using Stabilizer is just as good preventing varnish than drying the carbs, I think keeping the fuel system saturated shortens the life of the diaphrams and other fuel sensitive parts. It's your opinion, and you are entitled to it.

    RQ

  10. #10
    steach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Here is a detailed procedure that I do to mine, I feel a little better than factory recommended.
    I agree. This one should stick.

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