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  1. #1
    Tiburon's Avatar
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    Loose prop on my R-12X.........

    Guys I am shocked I changed my prop to a 17/29 on my new 2005 R-12X, I bought 2 new, but they are left over 2005s well the the stock prop when I put it on the vise I was able to take it off with my hands, I looked at the pump houseing and it has a couple not to bad scratches I was shocked, it gets worse, put the new prop put it all back togeather....

    Then I was wondering about my girl friends R-12X so I took her pump out and guess what her prop was also loose, this is crazy hers had no scratches on the pump housing but still loose again with my hands I took the prop off....

    Honda is messing up I am going to call the dealer Monday and tell them both props where loose... all you who bought left over R-12X check your prop.....

    I was wondering what would happen if the prop came loose????


  2. #2
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    This is a very common problem since 2002. This is why I recommend that you PM (check) your pump 2x a year for this and water intrusion. Also I would use red loctite and 105Ft-lbs instead of the recommended 95 lbs.

    As for the prop coming loose. It will normally unscrew and damage the rear cir clip on the pump intermediate drive shaft. If this happens and left undetected it will then normally damaged the prop thread.

    Shawn

  3. #3
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroShark View Post
    This is a very common problem since 2002. This is why I recommend that you PM (check) your pump 2x a year for this and water intrusion. Also I would use red loctite and 105Ft-lbs instead of the recommended 95 lbs.

    As for the prop coming loose. It will normally unscrew and damage the rear cir clip on the pump intermediate drive shaft. If this happens and left undetected it will then normally damaged the prop thread.

    Shawn
    Any problems getting the impeller to un-screw after using red loctite?

  4. #4
    Tiburon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroShark View Post
    This is a very common problem since 2002. This is why I recommend that you PM (check) your pump 2x a year for this and water intrusion. Also I would use red loctite and 105Ft-lbs instead of the recommended 95 lbs.

    As for the prop coming loose. It will normally unscrew and damage the rear cir clip on the pump intermediate drive shaft. If this happens and left undetected it will then normally damaged the prop thread.

    Shawn
    Thats what we did Shawn we used red locktite and went 100 pounds, why is this happening?
    Is Hona not paying attention????

  5. #5
    Yeah I'm a coucher, and proud of it! ticketplease's Avatar
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    I just bought a left over 2005 myself. Looks like I need to check this also. I have only put 4 hours on the R12X so far. Shawn, does this also happen on the F12X model? I bought a left over 2006 F12X in March of this year. I have approx 15 hours on it.
    Next questions would be;
    1) How hard is it to check/change the impeller?
    2) Right off hand, who has good prices on the 17/29 Solas impellers?

    TIA in advance, Steve in Louisiana

  6. #6
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    It's all years, I buy the props at dealer cost but I've heard Parker Yamaha has them for a good price.

    It's not hard to do should be a 30 minute job, you will need a prop tool (Bout a $10 adapter from parker or anywhere that sells props for Honda)

    Shawn

  7. #7
    Tiburon's Avatar
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    I found these instructions on PWCToday, Its very easy just take your time and RED locktight every thing....

    Pump Removal....

    1. Pull off the reverse cable (it's a slide release)
    2. Pull reverse bucket side bolts (2x)
    3. Pull reverse bucket slide bolt
    4. Pull off the steering (and trim for R models) cables
    5. Cut the zip tie holding the bilge hose on the nozel, and pull the hose off
    6. Pull the pump nozel bolts (4x)
    7. Pull the pump mount bolts (4x)
    8. Pull (the pump)

    Pump Install....

    1. Grease the large seal o-ring with a good waterproof grease
    2. Grease the impeller splines (one big bead all the way aroud) and boot (light coating on seal surface)
    3. Make sure the dowl pins are in place in ither the seat or the pump
    4. Line the impeller up onto the driveshaft and push the pump up to the mounting plate
    5. *make sure the cooling water passage is on the left side
    6. **make sure the speed sensor wire is NOT trapped between the mounting plate and pump (d'oh!)
    7. Bolt the pump to the plate (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
    8. Bolt the nozel to the pump (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
    9. Re-install the steering (and trim) cables
    10. Push the builge hose onto the nozel fitting and secure with a zip tie
    11. Grease the track for the Reverse bucket pivot bolt
    12. Bolt on the Reverse bucket pivot bolt (through the bracket) and use red locktite
    13. Grease the smooth part of the reverse bucket bolts and Bolt down the reverse bucket (2x) use red locktite
    14. Re-attach reverse bucket cable

    You are done...

  8. #8
    Tiburon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketplease View Post
    I just bought a left over 2005 myself. Looks like I need to check this also. I have only put 4 hours on the R12X so far. Shawn, does this also happen on the F12X model? I bought a left over 2006 F12X in March of this year. I have approx 15 hours on it.
    Next questions would be;
    1) How hard is it to check/change the impeller?
    2) Right off hand, who has good prices on the 17/29 Solas impellers?

    TIA in advance, Steve in Louisiana
    NitroShark is right best price I found was $273.00 plus $10.00 for the tool.. Here is the link, plus they ship fast.

    http://www.parkeryamaha.com/solashon...acdseries.aspx

  9. #9

    broken driveshaft coupler

    we had a prop come loose on one of our skis which then seized the driveshaft and destroyed the two driveshaft couplers and rubber bung and also tore up the through hull bearing assembly annoying for us as it took 6 weeks for the parts to come from honda parts direct to scotland.

  10. #10
    Yeah I'm a coucher, and proud of it! ticketplease's Avatar
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    Thanks Shawn & Tiburon for the timeframe and the directions. Seems allot easier than the ole sea-poo SPX impeller change where I had to line up the engine and pump after pulling the pump.
    Tiburon, I don't see the part in the instructions where I use the tool to remove the impeller. It just says pull the pump, then I start to put it back together. Seems like it's missing a step maybe. I see where it says to line up the impeller on the shaft and push the pump up to the mounting plate. Do you need anything to hold the driveshaft while loosing and tightening the impeller?
    I have read the posts where you reuse the rubber seal/boot from the stock impeller as the billet one isn't useful and doesn't work as well.
    Looks like I'll buy 2 impellers, one for each ski and be done with them. Thanks again for the fast responce and hopefully answers to the couple of questions I had above, Steve

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