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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow How to remove a broken engine mount bolt? Virage TXi FRC hull

    Today I managed to remove the Torx head from the front right outside engine mounting bolt. Not the bolt, just the bolt head

    I also forgot to apply heat before trying to undo the bolt. Which is probably why it broke.

    I really do not want to pull the entire engine out, just to get that broken bolt stub out. Any suggestions?

    Presuming that there is Locktite type stuff holding that bolt in place, how much heat can I apply (to break the adhesive down) to the bolt insert area in an FRC hull? Torch flame, Weller soldering iron, or just heat gun?

    BTW, if it makes any difference this is a Virage TXi 1165cc domestic engine.

    The fuel tank is empty and already shifted forward (fuel pump needed repair), so I have some elbow room in there.


  2. #2
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Drill it and use a ez-out extractor? Perhaps squeeze some heat sink compound around the extractor and into the drilled hole then heat it?

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Which mount bolt broke?
    I've found that if I remove the pump, remove the mount bolts from one side you can lift the motor and remove the engine mounts complete.
    With the mount out you can usually remove the broken stud or just replace the mount.
    With the engine lifted you can also try a stud remover or stud removal plier (the harder you turn, the better they grip) if you have sufficient room.

  4. #4

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    Out of curiousity, what part would you apply heat to? If you are talking about applying heat to the bolt prior to removal, that is the incorrect method. The idea of heat is to expand the material the bolt is threaded into causing it to expand and releasing some of its hold on the bolt for easier removal.

  5. #5
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    I know that when we GPR guys need to replace or remove our ride plates for the first time, we have to hold the flame of a small butane torch to the heads of the bolts for 45 seconds to break down the adhesive.... or you WILL spin the inserts. Yamaha uses some serious poop on them.

    It's worked great for me as I've done it myself.





    m

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Today I managed to remove the Torx head from the front right outside engine mounting bolt...
    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    Which mount bolt broke?
    I've found that if I remove the pump, remove the mount bolts from one side you can lift the motor and remove the engine mounts complete.
    With the mount out you can usually remove the broken stud or just replace the mount.
    With the engine lifted you can also try a stud remover or stud removal plier (the harder you turn, the better they grip) if you have sufficient room.
    The bolt that broke is a Torx head button head bolt, that is normally visible at the front right corner of the engine, holding the outside end of the motor mount to the hull.

    I think I will try your suggestion of rocking the engine up on that side (after removing pump and the big nuts from the engine mounts on the right side). Not sure how far it will shift before the exhaust hits the far side of the hull...

    But I am going to need to apply some heat to the remaining Torx bolt on that motor mount, otherwise I will have TWO broken bolts.

    My concern was that these Torx bolts are holding the metal base of the rubber engine mount in place. That engine mount base has some metal mass, AND it has the rubber mount right there. I don't want to burn the rubber, or weaken the FRC hull material from excess heat.

    The mini torch sounds like a good idea for focused heat, and I have something similar here.

    So how much heat is enough, and how much is too much, for the FRC, and for the Locktite compound.
    BTW, what metal are the hull inserts made from?

  7. #7
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    How'd you fair?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...So how much heat is enough, and how much is too much, for the FRC, and for the Locktite compound.
    BTW, what metal are the hull inserts made from?
    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    How'd you fair?
    Have not had much time to work on the watercraft yet

    Been rather busy lately, and the outside temperatures are now getting colder. Lots of chores to do before winter sets in...

    How cautious do I need to be regarding torch heating the motor mount bolts?

    The Virage is a single layer hull, and I don't want to weaken the FRC material from excess heat. On the other hand, I don't want to break the remaining bolt head off.

    With SS bolts, it can be hard to tell whether the bolt is turning or you are actually shearing the bolt head off, until it lets go.

  9. #9
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    I heat them with a small butane torch for aprox 20-30 sec at a time you will feel it when the loctite gives way.

  10. #10
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I know that when we GPR guys need to replace or remove our ride plates for the first time, we have to hold the flame of a small butane torch to the heads of the bolts for 45 seconds to break down the adhesive.... or you WILL spin the inserts. Yamaha uses some serious poop on them.

    It's worked great for me as I've done it myself.





    m
    +1
    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    I heat them with a small butane torch for aprox 20-30 sec at a time you will feel it when the loctite gives way.
    +2

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