Thread: Ride Plate Removal ('06 RXP)
10-16-2008, 04:33 PM #1
Ride Plate Removal ('06 RXP)
When using a jack/wood blocks to remove the RXP RPlate, does the Plate just pry straight down or do you first have to remove the Closed Loop RPlate fittings from inside the Hull?
The '06 microfiche makes it look like the RPlate Fittings stay in place and use an o-Ring to seal the edge of the fitting to the RPlate. I know the earlier model 4-Tec's you had to either remove the fittings from inside the Hull or be very careful not to crack them when removing the RPlate but has that been updated with the O-Rings ?
'06 RXP fische, click and hit F5 to refresh image >>
ITEM # 12 & 13
10-16-2008, 04:53 PM #2
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Crest Hill, IL
drain the fluid...remove the hoses fom the fittings inside or they could SNAP!
10-16-2008, 06:01 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
I recently did one for the first time
I don't regret breaking the fittings, they were cheap and besides that the inside of the hull was full of sharp bits of fiberglass, and getting those ancient spring loaded clamps off was too tough (there is a special tool for it, but it costs some serious cash for a one time use) They unscrew on the 2007 models. BTW, don't believe the fiche, I had to order the fittings/orings and loctite, they did not appear to be included on the riva seadoo fiche..matter of fact, I've come to distrust the seadoo fiche in the short time I've been back in the water.
I bit the bullet and let the fittings break off ( oh, the plate I was removing was cracked from a rock encounter, you should remove the fittings if you are just upgrading your plate, stock plates run about $250 and if the fitings break off, the plate is trashed)
you can get the 5900 loctite sealant for $18 at boatfix.com, half of what other places sell it for. Get a quality caulk gun, that stuff doesn't like to come out of the tube.
you'll want a half round wood chisel couple of narrow paint scrapers and a bunch of "marine release solvent" ( and a half a case of paper towels) to get the old sealant off the hull, the half round chisel works well in the beveled parts of the hull, and if it's sharp, you can shave the sealant thin enough that the solvent will do the rest.
box fan blowing air on you while using the solvent..it's nasty.
I went with high quality ss clamps to refasten the cooling hoses at the general consensus of those here and others, the stock camps suck.
new fittings and o rings were around $20 and I can say getting the plate off was tricky enough without having to deal with the getting the fittings off first. I wasn't comfortable using a smallish floor jack and some 2x6's on the hull of an expensive ski, but I went slowly and the plate started to slowllly seperate from the hull, just like it was shown here.
It's a solid afternoon of work..maybe two if you let the fumes get to you.
10-16-2008, 06:01 PM #4
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