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  1. #1
    yz450f's Avatar
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    winterizing my 1300

    my buddy gave me his bew 1300 this year to winterize it
    iv never done a winterizing job on efi. so what do i do
    i no i need to run anti freeze thru the motor but what about the efi thing do i fog them out like a carb?


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  3. #3
    Chine Walker
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    They're impossible to fog...

  4. #4
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yz450f View Post
    my buddy gave me his bew 1300 this year to winterize it
    iv never done a winterizing job on efi. so what do i do
    i no i need to run anti freeze thru the motor but what about the efi thing do i fog them out like a carb?
    yz450f
    i do dozens of PWC's every year, and with the fuel injected models you can't shoot fogging oil down the intake, the injectors clog up. the only reasonable way of doing it is spraying down the cylinders for a couple seconds then rotate (burp the starter) slightly, then repeat the process, i do it about a half dozen times. the crank is what were after and this isn't the best way but it is the only way when you have injectors.
    make sure to use quality fogging oil. (NOT eagle brand from your auto store, that stuff is thin and runs off) use any name brand such as Yamaha, polaris, mercury, evinrude etc.
    before all this put the recommended amount of stabil in the fuel, oz. per gal. on the bottle. again any brand name or the new blue stabil (designed for ethenol blended fuels, not the red stabil it doesnt work with todays formulated fuels). run the motor for five minutes to get the stabil into the fuel system. then start the fogging process described above. then remove the battery for storage and spray the engine compartment with WD40, mice hate it and it keeps corrosion down. (my 1995 still looks new). you can run RV anti freeze through it if you want, use the blue 100 below stuff, not the 50 below pink or the automotive stuff (DNR regulations, dont want that stuff in the water, big fine!) i did this back in the 1990's but it's really not neccessary. the last ten seconds you run the motor do it out of the water, without a hose etc. just like you would do after riding, this pushes the majority of the water out of the system, whats left will be in the waterbox and has plenty of safe room to expand during the winter months, as an added i do it with the trailer tilted up to help the water exit the cooling system. long winded but i like to cover the details. remember, stabilize the fuel run for five, run for ten seconds no water, tilted up, fog, remove battery, spray WD40. if ive forgotten anything please chime in.

  5. #5
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAVEATER View Post
    yz450f
    i do dozens of PWC's every year, and with the fuel injected models you can't shoot fogging oil down the intake, the injectors clog up. the only reasonable way of doing it is spraying down the cylinders for a couple seconds then rotate (burp the starter) slightly, then repeat the process, i do it about a half dozen times. the crank is what were after and this isn't the best way but it is the only way when you have injectors.
    make sure to use quality fogging oil. (NOT eagle brand from your auto store, that stuff is thin and runs off) use any name brand such as Yamaha, polaris, mercury, evinrude etc.
    before all this put the recommended amount of stabil in the fuel, oz. per gal. on the bottle. again any brand name or the new blue stabil (designed for ethenol blended fuels, not the red stabil it doesnt work with todays formulated fuels). run the motor for five minutes to get the stabil into the fuel system. then start the fogging process described above. then remove the battery for storage and spray the engine compartment with WD40, mice hate it and it keeps corrosion down. (my 1995 still looks new). you can run RV anti freeze through it if you want, use the blue 100 below stuff, not the 50 below pink or the automotive stuff (DNR regulations, dont want that stuff in the water, big fine!) i did this back in the 1990's but it's really not neccessary. the last ten seconds you run the motor do it out of the water, without a hose etc. just like you would do after riding, this pushes the majority of the water out of the system, whats left will be in the waterbox and has plenty of safe room to expand during the winter months, as an added i do it with the trailer tilted up to help the water exit the cooling system. long winded but i like to cover the details. remember, stabilize the fuel run for five, run for ten seconds no water, tilted up, fog, remove battery, spray WD40. if ive forgotten anything please chime in.
    Great! I also wash/wax my ski's as an added detail.

  6. #6
    Me Hahn and Joe H204YOU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WATER WOODY View Post
    Great! I also wash/wax my ski's as an added detail.
    I finish my wax & flaxin off with
    00 virgin lambs wool-OOOOHHHH

  7. #7
    the franchise dogger's Avatar
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    is it really time to winterize already. I gotta do this too.

  8. #8
    yz450f's Avatar
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    yea thanx alot guys
    i can always count on greenhulk for al my questions
    by the way i got some sis for sale if u need a ski

  9. #9
    Pure n00b jeepmansro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAVEATER View Post
    yz450f
    i do dozens of PWC's every year, and with the fuel injected models you can't shoot fogging oil down the intake, the injectors clog up. the only reasonable way of doing it is spraying down the cylinders for a couple seconds then rotate (burp the starter) slightly, then repeat the process, i do it about a half dozen times. the crank is what were after and this isn't the best way but it is the only way when you have injectors.
    make sure to use quality fogging oil. (NOT eagle brand from your auto store, that stuff is thin and runs off) use any name brand such as Yamaha, polaris, mercury, evinrude etc.
    before all this put the recommended amount of stabil in the fuel, oz. per gal. on the bottle. again any brand name or the new blue stabil (designed for ethenol blended fuels, not the red stabil it doesnt work with todays formulated fuels). run the motor for five minutes to get the stabil into the fuel system. then start the fogging process described above. then remove the battery for storage and spray the engine compartment with WD40, mice hate it and it keeps corrosion down. (my 1995 still looks new). you can run RV anti freeze through it if you want, use the blue 100 below stuff, not the 50 below pink or the automotive stuff (DNR regulations, dont want that stuff in the water, big fine!) i did this back in the 1990's but it's really not neccessary. the last ten seconds you run the motor do it out of the water, without a hose etc. just like you would do after riding, this pushes the majority of the water out of the system, whats left will be in the waterbox and has plenty of safe room to expand during the winter months, as an added i do it with the trailer tilted up to help the water exit the cooling system. long winded but i like to cover the details. remember, stabilize the fuel run for five, run for ten seconds no water, tilted up, fog, remove battery, spray WD40. if ive forgotten anything please chime in.
    This is great info esp for a noob, one more question, I know its bad to run the motor out of water, and your saying to run stabil through it, for 5 min or so, Is this ok to be done on the trailer? should I have the garden hose hooked up to it, runnin water through it? AND, run coolant through the motor... how exactly?

    Thanks

  10. #10
    Mike xsockguyx's Avatar
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    Run your motor with the hose while your getting the fuel stabilizer fully circulated through your motor. You never wanna run the ski really past 15 seconds with out water. Thats why you are only running it 10 seconds to get the water out

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