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  1. #1

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    May 2007
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    C1800 maintenance.

    Ok guys: I want to look over the boat I got before I take it out again.. Here is a list of stuff I have found that need regular maintenance. The boat is a 1997 challenger with 119 hours. It has an hour meter that according to the paper work it was installed at the dealer when It was new so it should be accurate.

    Change pump oil: I just got the oil so I can do this. Can i re-use the O ring inside the cone or should I change that too.

    Lube PTO (done)

    I am getting a bottle of fogging oil so I can fog the engine after each use.

    Boat has no grey fuel lines that I can see.

    Both trailer tires are new and new hubs with seals and bearing will be installed Saturday.

    Anything else I need to do?


    One more thing. I am going to use SD XP-S oil in it. The oil tank is half full but I have no idea what oil brand is in there. Can I just run it low then add the XP-S oil to it?


    Thanks.


  2. #2
    Dr Len's Son MaxMike's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
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    Barnegat Bay, NJ/ Bergen County, NJ
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    for good measure, pop off the RAVE valves and clean them. If they get stuck down and melt, they are very expensive. check you wear ring for damage. check the spark plugs and replace if needed. and if you are shrink wrapping the boat to leave outside, wipe the seats down well with Aerospace 303 UV Protectant, this will add moisture to the seats so they don't crack

  3. #3

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    May 2007
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    ohh the Rave Valves.

    Question on that. My motors are clean and they look like they have never been open except the Rave Valves. One of the motors looks like has new Rave Valves because they are not painted white like the rest of the motor. I think they are just bare aluminum. Any ideas why?

    Ill make sure to take them apart. I need new gaskets for that too correct.

  4. #4
    Dr Len's Son MaxMike's Avatar
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    my dad bought a '98 1800 about 2 years ago. the guy we bought it from must have run something like mineral oil, where the Rotax 787 needs synthetic. the oil must have left residue in the engine, and the RAVE valves get gunked up and stuck down. This happened to us. The valves must have gotten so gunked up that they couldn't move and actually melted. Three out of four were junked, one was salvagable. just pop them off just in case and use brake cleaner or super clean on them.

  5. #5

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    so just pop off the plastic cap? I dont have to take it out from the base?



    I just got a gallon of XP-S syntetic oil. $37 plus tax. not fun. Ill probably need anotherone.

  6. #6
    Dr Len's Son MaxMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjb View Post
    so just pop off the plastic cap? I dont have to take it out from the base?



    I just got a gallon of XP-S syntetic oil. $37 plus tax. not fun. Ill probably need anotherone.
    no. you take the cap off, and take the whole valve out of the engine. you have the shop manual right?

  7. #7

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    I see.. I tough I had to unscrew both screws at the base of the valves. Yes i have a manual from the 98 boat.

  8. #8
    Dr Len's Son MaxMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjb View Post
    I see.. I tough I had to unscrew both screws at the base of the valves. Yes i have a manual from the 98 boat.
    sorry, yes yo do have to unscrew the base of the valve. the whole RAVE assembly must come out to get the valve out. that means the cap, the spring, the bellow, the metal piece that gets screwed onto the engine, and finally the valve. and yes, getting new O rings for your pump cones would be a good idea for some extra security. you dont want your cone leaking in the water. and check your driveshaft protectors, jet pumps, impellers, and wear rings for damage, just for good measure . i know i'm listing a lot, but these are all things that can get damaged. just curious, do get cavitation from any of your motors?

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