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  1. #1
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Greasing pump bearings

    Hey guys I got a question:
    I took the pump tail-cone of of my 08 15F. There was no water or corrosion, but when you guys said "finger full" of grease, you weren't kidding. It's almost non-existent!

    Can I put some Lithium grease in there? It says on the package NOT to mix "greases of different soap types." What type of grease is in there now? The grease I have is Lithium 12-hydroxy stearate. Can I add that to what is already in there? How much? I would do the wet-pump mod, but don't have the impeller tool. I'd be happy to just add grease for now... if its safe.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    I wouldnt take a chance and mix them, just go to a Kawasaki dealer and get the correct grease.............

  3. #3
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Yeah that's what I was thinking... Thanks!

  4. #4

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    Grease is part #W61080-016. "COMPOUNDED TO PROVIDE MAXIMUM RESISTANCE TO WATER CONTAMINATION, ESPECIALLY SALT WATER". It didn't list ingredient(s) at website but definitely will be on container/msds.

  5. #5
    nighttrain nighttrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamatech View Post
    Grease is part #W61080-016. "COMPOUNDED TO PROVIDE MAXIMUM RESISTANCE TO WATER CONTAMINATION, ESPECIALLY SALT WATER". It didn't list ingredient(s) at website but definitely will be on container/msds.

    How Many Hours you recomend before checking them?

  6. #6

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    My Yami is 13 so I hit mine every 25 for inspection. Just takes a couple minutes to check for water intrusion and grease and reseal it.

  7. #7
    Don't use lithium grease which would emulsify with water.
    Use quality brand waterproof grease something like BelRay or Chevron.
    Shove in as much grease as possinble into the bearing area.
    Grease will not actually grease the bearings, no actual contact with the ball bearings, because they are sealed type.
    The idea here is to displace as much space as possible by the grease inside the bearing/shaft area so that if water ever comes in, there will be less space for water to take up. Also, less space/void means less amount of air to contract (as temp goes down when shut off the ski) and less vacuum will be created which pulls in water. The theory here is just like wheel bearings on your ski trailer.
    Last edited by meangreenman; 10-29-2008 at 11:43 AM.

  8. #8
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Hey thanks guys!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by bamatech View Post
    Grease is part #W61080-016. "COMPOUNDED TO PROVIDE MAXIMUM RESISTANCE TO WATER CONTAMINATION, ESPECIALLY SALT WATER". It didn't list ingredient(s) at website but definitely will be on container/msds.
    This is Kawi grease available at dealer. Greenman describes proper procedure with reasoning behind doing it that way. I have tried drilling seal cover over bearings only to have it sling it out faster. I've also read posts that describe a drilling procedure and adding a zerk fitting that does the same thing but involved removing the seal on one side of the bearing to allow grease in the bearing and to fill the empty space in housing with grease. Meangreen's way is best because you get a visual inspection and can replace cone seal while apart.

  10. #10
    nighttrain nighttrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamatech View Post
    My Yami is 13 so I hit mine every 25 for inspection. Just takes a couple minutes to check for water intrusion and grease and reseal it.
    Book Say's remove Engine, I know it's not the case but I've personally never done this. Do you just take off the cover and re grease and apply again while leaving the original Seal's on Shaft or do you try to Unbolt Engine to Maneuver back?

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