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  1. #1

    Ultra 150 D3 Pipe

    Anyone have some info on the set up of the D3 pipe?

    I'm especially looking for the rpm sets for the 2 water inlets, but really would just like to know anything. I know btldigger had one, but he seems to be less than inclined to relase any info by PM

    Before resulting to demanding a search for D3, please be kind the forum feels that D3 is too short of search term, and dominator only turns up a few glancing discussions.

    I will be testing back to back between skiworx stinger mod and the D3 pipe if that inspries anyone to give me a jump point for starting out the testing. Will be on modified stock CVs to start and skiworx 1.5. Novis to follow, depending on how long the weather holds out.


  2. #2

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    2500-3000rpm on one and 4500-5000rpm the other. There is alot of info on pwctoday on the d3.

  3. #3
    thesepaperwings's Avatar
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    Here is a start

    All three pipe mods will work great with CV carbs (modified or not). For stock CV carbs, we supply new main jets. We recommend changing out the main jets in modded carbs as well (regardless of who's carb modification).

    The SP2S "Dominator 3" exhaust system is a stage 3 exhaust modification.

    Some people want a milder mod that looks 100% stock and the Dominator 1 (D1) fits the bill while delivering improved performance all the way through the powerband (it's just milder performance than a D2, D3 or D-X). The D1 will outperform a simple stinger mod as far as top speed is concerned and match it in acceleration, even though it doesn't use a Jetworks valve on the stinger.

    The SP2S Dominator 2 (D2) exhaust system adds the single point, single stage water injection set-up just like what you have now, except that it has the full porting of the D1 system. The work is very extensive (about 3-4 hours worth of labor in the exhaust manifold alone). The YR 2002+ spec D2 also adds a secondary cooling line so that cooling water is not robbed from the motor and injected into the exhaust stinger. The main chamber is also modified. The D2 is simple to install and tune for just about anyone with little to no experience. The D2 is a noticeable step up from the D1 especially throttle response and mid range acceleration, with small gains in top speed over the D1 (approx. 1.5 mph average).

    The SP2S Dominator 3 (D3) exhaust adds about 2 hours more labor time to complete the manifold and an extra 2 hours of labor in the stinger section of the pipe. It also adds dual point, dual stage water injection to the stinger section which is far superior than a single point, single stage water injection delivery system. The D3 also adds a secondary cooling line which adds 100% more cooling water. The original D2 and your "stinger" set-up robs 35-40% of the engines water supply needed for cooling. The latest D2 config uses the same dual inlet waterlog of the D3. The D3 is also alot more sophisticated as far as installation and takes a couple of hours of tuning on the water to get the most out of it. The result is a 20-22hp gain, phenominal bottom end (hair trigger throttle response) and better pull through the mid range with up to 2 to 3 mph gain depending on other mods you've used to complement the system.

    The latest version is the race spec Dominator X (D-X) pipe. It is basically the same as the D3 but there is additional work done in the exhaust manifold, main chamber and stinger sections. The entire exhaust system is then shipped to Extrudehone for their super smooth surface finishing. SP2S also adds a third Jet-Works valve to the main water injection point, which allows adjustablility from 1500 rpm to 6000 rpm. Performance Engineering won the 2004 World Finals Novice RA 1200 Limited Championship using the D-X pipe against a slew of triple and double piped STX-Rs, GPRs and Sea-Doos. We also finished 2nd overall at the National Championships in Nashville in the same class. So I guess it does work afterall. :P heh

    Many people try to correlate our success with our race program as our mods being "race" only modifications. This couldn't be further from the truth! The real truth of the matter is, we take our recreational turn-keys and just add a little more compression and a little more timing advance, use slightly different pitched impellers/nozzle combinations and that is about it as far as the differences. We don't use expensive triple pipes (or Skat-Trak pumps or any other race oriented mods) because we don't sell them. We race what we sell. We also happen to win with what we sell. What does that say about our products?


    Since every boat is different, and I am not the one doing the install and initial tuning, I cannot possibly tell you exactly how fast your boat will go. I can say it will be much quicker and noticeably faster on GPS and radar. The acceleration gains are phenominal, even over the "stinger" mod. Also, keep in mind there is a performance guaranty. I've seen a few Ultras pick up as much as 3 mph. Some only 1 mph. Some Ultras need their pumps shimmed and or the impeller repitched to get even more top speed. That's part of the tuning process. I would find someone to install and tune the pipe if you don't have enough confidence doing this type of work.

    The water injection tuning is explained in the instructions that come with the pipe. I don't want to give away all my secrets for "free" as then anyone could just do the dual point, dual stage water injection on any pipe! I can say the tuning instructions are VERY detailed. A couple of hours to tune the D3 is worse case scenario. It takes me approximately 20 minutes to dial in the D3, but I've done around 75 install/tunes. I preset the valves and number them so they are very close.

    If for some reason the carbs need a different size main jet, we will swap them out at no charge. I use 166.5, 168, 170 and 175 main jets depending on level of mods.

    Top end isn't too bad for a single pipe race boat either. Right before Havasu my Limited GPSed at 68.3, 68.5, 68.1 and 68.3 mph in smooth water (and got there in a big hurry). Please keep in mind that our raceboats are Limiteds, set up for closed course racing only, with larger ID exit nozzles and acceleration biased Skat-Trak Swirl impellers. At Texoma, we were running too large of a reduction nozzle which limited our top end to around 66-67 mph.

  4. #4
    thesepaperwings's Avatar
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    This was Crone's Ultra 150 in his shop. In the pics you can see the routing for the second water line thru the hull for cooling from the pump and that is tapped into the pump. Both of these lines run to the dual cooling waterlog which he modified and off of each one of these cooling lines are Jetworks valves. One valve kicks on at a lower rpm between 2500-3000 and the other 4500-5000 to keep water from loading up in the waterbox. What also needs to be done is jetting. Stock jetting is 165 main jets on the CV's. If I remember correctly I ran 175 mains and that was it for jetting and aftermarket flame arrestors, I ran Proks and never had a problem. Also, another thing Crone did was the metal gaskets between the carbs and the intake manifold are taken out and replaced with paper gaskets like the ones between the intake manifold and the crankcase to increase airflow. A bump in compression is also needed, I used an ADA head with 42cc domes which worked fine.

    The pissers in the back are for the jetworks valves so that you can see when water comes out of them. I thought I had another picture showing where the headpipe pisser came out. Anyways, he ran pissers for everything to make sure he could see water coming out and especially on the jetworks valves so you know when they were coming "on" in accordance with your rpms.
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  5. #5

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    Hmm, those pictures look familiar, so does the typing.

  6. #6
    thesepaperwings's Avatar
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    They should, I copied and pasted things we talked about and some of the important stuff from Crone.

  7. #7
    thesepaperwings's Avatar
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    There is a guy on ebay selling one of Crones waterboxes. Someone should pick it up.

  8. #8
    btldigger's Avatar
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    [quote=skiguy1028;858364]Anyone have some info on the set up of the D3 pipe?

    I'm especially looking for the rpm sets for the 2 water inlets, but really would just like to know anything. I know btldigger had one, but he seems to be less than inclined to relase any info by PM

    Sorry about that work has been crazy and I havent been on much. Dont mind sharring the info at all.

    I think the pipe wings had was set up a little different from mine. I didnt do the dual cooling for it I just put a t in the existing line. The valves were set to come on at 3k for the small one and 4500 for the bigger one. My pipe only had the 2 jetworx into the stinger with no extra injection points or bypasses. Here is the link on how to do the dual cooling mod. http://greenhulk.net/forums/showpost...8&postcount=19

    I did the dual cooling after I put the tripples in. But the same method would work to supply the d3. I use the existing center fitting in the water log to feed the exhaust then tapped in 2 new inlets. You could try it that way then try dumpping some of the water by installing a hose on the flush fitting and dummping it overboard if you have too much. I think his pipe had that dump if I remember rite.

  9. #9
    I notice Crone's bike did not have the exhaust temp probe mounted. Was he running the stock ignition and pump gas? I don't want to blow the thing to pieces playing around.

    Any suggestions on being able to actually unscrew the exhaust temp probe? As I recall when pulling the motor, it did not like to come out, so I just unplugged the probe on the electrical side.

  10. #10
    gtxscrider's Avatar
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    Dam i want a d3! Do they even still offer it?

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