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  1. #1
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Finally got started

    After several months of "work/too cold/bad fuel sender/waiting on parts"
    I was finally able to make a run for Morgan City and get some baseline numbers. The ski is an '03 1300R with 62 hours, PPK, 87mm, box 13/19 and 2-bar grate. I had an R&D plate but took it off and put OEM on for starting numbers/rpm's.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Air Temp - 73 F
    Water temp - 67 F
    Dew point temp - @51
    Humidity - 38%
    Trim - neutral
    Fuel - Full to 3/4
    Chop - very little but some boat wake from Doiron's bass tournament.
    RPM's - 7200-7240(max) with PET 2100-dx
    Speed - 64.25 MPH (avg of top speed both directions w/Magellan Meridian)
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Rpm's seem higher than I expected for basically a stock boat. I wonder if the box 13/19 is actually a box 13/19.
    Although speed not bad for a full tank, I expected a small bit more and wonder if the 2-bar grate is stealing some. The rear of it is flush to <1mm below the shoe.
    I waited to check rpm's/speeds until I had played on/ridden the ski from Doiron's to between the Mosquito bar and the Spunky Monkey. I have to believe it was warmed up.

    Next mods to do before running again:

    - Splash Guard for throttle body
    - V-force3
    - R&D Race filter and water sock
    - EFI
    - D-plate & chip
    - Jetworks mod (maybe)

    I will wait until new numbers before installing my 45cc heads. I will wait until after the heads to install the R&D plate and tabs.

    Ps. Saw Greenhulk's wife tearing it up on her new RXP. Seems like a very nice person. The "Hulk" was on the dock watching as his "rocket" is down waiting on new mods.


  2. #2
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Rpm's seem higher than I expected for basically a stock boat
    Just wait till you get the 2nd set of mods installed...you are going to need more prop!!!

    Dont worry about the 1200 intake grate...the stocker will get you hurt.

  3. #3
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO
    Just wait till you get the 2nd set of mods installed...you are going to need more prop!!!
    Yep. Just waiting to see what prop that will be. So much to do, so little time. I'm also trying to decide which Jetworks mod kit to go with. AJS has a kit, Island has a kit. I need to look and see if Jerry has a kit.

  4. #4
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Call Jetworks and get the "single cooling" set-up. Call me and I will walk you through the install.

  5. #5
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO
    Call Jetworks and get the "single cooling" set-up. Call me and I will walk you through the install.
    Thanks Richard. Will do. I'll probably drill and tap to keep the temp sensor. My only concern would be the plastic sound suppression, but several people have reported no probs. I'm also assuming that if I install the Jetworks kit, I can adjust the flow for full flow to the waterbox UNTIL I get the other mods dialed in (vf-3,efi,race filter,etc). Once those mods are dialed in, then I could restrict the flow at 3-3500 rpm. and realize the gain associated with the JW. Does that make sense?

  6. #6
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    I am currently running the stock sound supression, you should be OK.

    I'm also assuming that if I install the Jetworks kit, I can adjust the flow for full flow to the waterbox UNTIL I get the other mods dialed in
    I would install the jetworks when you pull the pipe to do your reeds. This way you adjust your controller once and forget about it.

  7. #7
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    OK. The Jetworks kit arrived. It is NOT the Fercho style kit. However, it does not require drilling the hull. The inlet water comes from a splice in the "cylinder head to exhaust head pipe" hose (with restrictor), teeing off to the flow control valve which is routed to the exhaust flange outlet.

    The water exit appears to be the existent water exit on the back TOP section of the exhaust which is cut and spliced into a black billet sensor adaptor for water temperature before dumping out the back.

    My concerns are 1) taking fluid from the cylinder head 2) Volume of water returned to water box (1/4" hose at this point) 3) Water outlet exiting from TOP of exhaust.

    Doe anyone have any experience with this particular kit?

  8. #8

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    Thanx!

    Firstly, thank you for a comprehensive baseline test. I plan to do the same when I hit the water in a couple weeks. It's tough to see empirical data on the effects of different mods.

    Secondly, this is the first I've heard of the Jetworks mod using injection water from the #3 outlet. I personally used the pump strainer routed through the bilge outlet for inlet and teed into the factory electric bilge pump for outlet.

    Assuming the head outlet provides enough water, the differences are two-fold: 1) it dries out the pipe a little before the waterbox, and 2) it provides warm water to the waterbox. I believe the reason people have lost RPMs on the top end with the Jetworks mod is because the water injected is cold, causing the exhaust gas volume to shrink, decreasing backpressure. Tapping off the head would prevent this.

    Just my opinion, I'm sure somebody knows a bunch more about this.

    Eric

  9. #9
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Steve, I would bring the water into the top of the pipe via the existing siphon thru hull fitting.

  10. #10
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    removed my jetworks kit and lost 1 mph !!! im putting it back on and trying something else for speed

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