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Thread: Cam Timing Help

  1. #1
    njrealtor55's Avatar
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    Cam Timing Help

    I need to know if someone can pull the valve cover on thier stock 15F and take a picture of the orientation of the cams at top dead center on piston #1.

    the book shows the cams intake and exhaust marks (both outer) level with the cyl and both inner marks slightly down.

    the only way I could get close to this orientation was to allow my outer marks to both be pointed slightly up (slightly). any other way and the marks would dissapear (too low) or the inner marks would align with the cyl and the outer marks would be pointed slightly down.

    ski starts and runs ok. has a slight issue with a looping idle, but it could be attributed to the assembly oil and no run time.

    please let me know asap.


  2. #2

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    Its one tooth off. With lope at idle like a hot rod? It can be a pain sometimes to get them "perfect", but you gotta be able to see the marks aligned with head and one another. Sometimes the direction you put the chain on gears will do this to you, just like a timing belt. A specific installing direction, so to speak.

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    njrealtor55's Avatar
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    we tried to move the cams 1 tooth each way, but it would make it really wrong.

    the loop is not bad like a hot rod. it will idle then after a period of time will bebing to loop then stall.

    i have only started it 2 times, and the 2nd time it ran much better then the 1st.

    i plan to ride it today (break in), so 1 tooth off will not matter much as i will not be at full throttle.

    BAMA -
    have you timed 15f cams? i only ask because somtimes the book is not 100% correct. my friend who helped me has done a ton of rxp's and they use a locking tool to get the crank 100% perfect to time the cams - and even then, the cams do not line up perfect like the seadoo book says. he says they are slightly off, and every rxp he has seen is that way.

    i am trying to convince strizki to let me look at the cams in his turbo boat for a reference.

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    As long as you can see the marks are aligned and visible when looking straight at gears, which is tricky with motor in hull. Of course all slack in chain will be on the tensioner side when you install it, and after the tensioner is activated there should be zero slack everywhere and marks align. What was a pain was cams moving after tensioner is set and having to start over. I rarely see every mark perfect like a manual shows it should be. Mainly experience is the factor. After you've done it a couple times it comes naturally. The two motors that used to piss me off trying to set up were GM's "quad 4" and 3.4L "quad cam". The northstar wasn't bad, except you had to rotate crank 27 times before ALL marks realigned, versus others just 2 times.

  5. #5
    njrealtor55's Avatar
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    rode the ski, everything is good. only issue is idle - i am thinking the iac is plugged or bad. i have to give it a little gas to coax it to idle - after a re-start.

    it will idle in the water at about 1000, but it is too low. should be around 1500 - and if i holf the throtle to get it there it sounds fine.

    spoke with a friend and he said the throttle plate should be almost closed and the iac regulates the idle - so i guess i will start there.

    also, the riva free flow w/ waterbox mod sounds sweet. almost too loud for 2 hrs of continous riding - almost....

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    nj, a quick test to verify if iac is operational: remove air intake hose at throttle body, crank and allow to idle, using your hand begin to close off air to throttle bore, and as engine begins to die down pull hand away. Idle should raise momentarily and you will hear a louder sound of air sucking, then quiet down as it returns to idle. If nothing happens, iac pintle is dirty/sticking or iac motor is bad or there's a bad connection/wire to motor.

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