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  1. #1

    Pulling back driveshaft on 2004 MSX 150

    Greetings to all:

    I am working on my 2004 MSX 150, and I have run into a problem. Because I have to lift and rotate the motor to get to a broken part, I must first back the driveshaft coupler away from the engine coupler. The motor is all ready to lift, but I am stuck at the stub shaft. Just FYI, other than the part I'm replacing, there's nothing wrong with the ski at all. I'm getting a slight exhaust leak from one cylinder's exhaust manifold gasket. More of a nuisance than anything. I put it off for two years because it didn't cause any performance problems or generate any error codes on my code reader, and my gas mialge hasn't changed since I first got it. Still, I love this ski!, and it's time for the leak to go.

    Anyway, back to my problem: I need to back the drive shaft coupler away from the engine coupler before I can lift the motor. Following my manual, I removed the pump nozzle and its assorted linkage, then I removed the stator cone, exposing the end of the stub shaft and its bearing. This is where I'm stuck.

    The way I understand it, once I get the stator off (with the stub shaft and bearing, of course), I will be able to pull the drive shaft back enough to separate the drive couplers and lift the engine from its motor mounts. The small disk that covers the stub shaft's bearing came off, but I can't get anything else to even budge. I'm trying to avoid the re-aligning process, in case you haven't guessed.

    Since I don't need to remove the impeller, the stator is as far as I need to go in the dissassembly drection.

    Any ideas on how to get the stator off?

    It looks as though the stator will come off after the stub shaft and bearing is removed, but I can't get the bearing out without destroying it. Anyone have any ideas on removing the bearing and stub shaft?

    Am I missing anything obvious?

    I live in virginia, and I have to work on the ski outside. I really want toget this done before cold weather sets in here.

    Heeeeelp!


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the hulk..
    Remove the four long bolts #27 and pull the pump no need to remove the nut or bearing from the stator.
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  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply, Beerdart:

    I know the bolts you're talking about. I had to remove the to get the nozzle off. As it stands now, looking at the back of the ski, there's just the stator housing (populated by dividers), and the next section is the impeller (obviously populated with blades. With the exception of it being fitted tightly to the impeller section, there should be nothng holding the stator in place. I don't get it.

    By the way, here's a newbie question for you: I understand that what I am looking at is not the drive shaft, it's the stub shaft. It's hard to tell from my diagram, but does the end of the drive shaft, with its rubber bumper, connect to the stub shaft at any point? The impeller doesn't spin when I try to turn it by hand. I wasn't having any drive problems at all when I started working on this last week end; in fact, it was great all summer.

    Have I missed something that will allow the impeller to turn? Linkages are all off. The 4 long bolts came off at the same time. The only thing holding the entire unit together are the four nuts on the other side of the firewall.

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    The driveshaft is splined to the impeller. With the four bolts removed wiggle the housings with a 2x4 and the sections will come apart. I am not sure if the coupler on the engine side of the drive shaft is splined or threaded.

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freelancenovelist View Post
    ...With the exception of it being fitted tightly to the impeller section, there should be nothing holding the stator in place. I don't get it.

    ...does the end of the drive shaft, with its rubber bumper, connect to the stub shaft at any point?...
    Your pump sections are simply stuck together around the perimeter where they join. Gently but firmly pry the entire rear end of the pump (stator) left/right and up/down with a long wood pry (2x4), and work it loose. Don't pry the pump too far in any one direction, just a few millimeters each way will do it. To far can damage the impeller blades.

    Once the pump gets loose, pull the stator straight back. Be ready for when the impeller lets go of the drive shaft splines - it can do so suddenly while you are pulling!

    The impeller and stator will come out together, and the extension ring (wear ring) around the impeller may come out at the same time. The impeller is threaded onto the end of the stub shaft (with 100ft lbs torque).

    Before you re-assemble the jet pump, be sure to clean up the mating surfaces of each section, and apply a little anti-seize to the ring edges.

    Before you tighten the long bolts that hold the pump together, make sure the pump sections and nozzle are in line and not twisted. Then tighten in a criss-cross fashion, using anti-seize on the threads (18 ft lbs).

    When you lift the motor, watch for any alignment shims under the mounts, and be sure to put them back where they came from when reinstalling.

  7. #7

    Getting the stator off

    I have a Tigershark so it may be different, but I had the same problem. It ended up that it was only "stuck" to the wear ring. The wear ring was hard to pull as well, because the gasket between it and the hull was "stuck" too. Some liberal massaging solved the problem.

    PKSlice

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Since you're going to move or twist the engine, the drive shaft coupler should be removed from the drive shaft (inside the hull).
    I think most guys pull the pump assembly, hold the drive shaft from spinning and use a strap wrench to loosen the coupler.

  9. #9
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    The 150 motor can come out with the couple still on,and it is threaded to the drive shaft.

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