Oil Tank Repair

[K447]

...once over 2400 then the red eye & engine temp indicator come on, and it goes into limp mode...

What exactly where you seeing on the NGI display?

'Check Engine' text message, just the Thermometer symbol, or something else?

The NGI display has one red warning lamp, and it flashes rapidly for most/all warnings. The red lamp also flashes whenever the display 'wakes up' from sleeping (no activity), even when there is no problem.

NGI Display symbols
Thermometer symbol for engine overheat
(Note: 1-3 second delay between signal occurrence and indicator appearing, approx. 10 second delay for indicator to go away after signal removed)

Oil can symbol for Low Oil Pressure
Battery symbol for battery charging system; warning for under-voltage (and over-voltage?)
Gasoline pump symbol for Low Fuel level


There are several text areas on the display, which can show various messages
Check Engine (Note: 1-3 second delay between signal occurrence and indicator appearing, approx. 10 second delay for indicator to go away after signal removed)

RPM
Engine Hours
Trip Odometer
Speed (Miles per hour or Kilometers per hour)

'Turbo' indicator along the right side
Fuel tank level up the left side

And of course the digital clock display

[MarkMikenis]

The red light would come on, (flashing, never thought to count the flashes) & the Thermometer symbol for engine overheat, then it will go into limp mode.

[spannerspencer]

rebuilding the oil tank has got me thinking, i know there is the issue as how to seccure the baffle,

but the more main problem to me, seems to be the seals Corroding, is it not a possible idea to anodise the top of the tank (this will help stop the seal faces corrode?) we all know for sure that salt is powefull when it Crystallises causing swelling and expansion.

hmm, i work in the aero industry, and may have a play at this.

can we out rule bonding sealants, such as tigerseal to aide the o-ring sealing and or bonding in the baffle?- (would it be un-reasonalble to lightly sand blast the plastic tank internals to created an etched surface to work with?)

as i have found this type of PU bonding sealer to have great properties, and would believe it would not break down or 'swell' with eather water or oils.

cheers

spence

[spannerspencer]

rebuilding the oil tank has got me thinking, i know there is the issue as how to seccure the baffle,

but the more main problem to me, seems to be the seals Corroding, is it not a possible idea to anodise the top of the tank (this will help stop the seal faces corrode?) we all know for sure that salt is powefull when it Crystallises causing swelling and expansion.

hmm, i work in the aero industry, and may have a play at this.

can we out rule bonding sealants, such as tigerseal to aide the o-ring sealing and or bonding in the baffle?- (would it be un-reasonalble to lightly sand blast the plastic tank internals to created an etched surface to work with?)

as i have found this type of PU bonding sealer to have great properties, and would believe it would not break down or 'swell' with eather water or oils.

cheers

spence

school boy error ......

i strapped my tank to my vice... 2 big ratched strapps... no baffle rattle

i blanked/bunged the oil tank, (not water way) and pressure tested it,.....

on a very small air compressor, i couldnt get the oil tank to hold anything!? (i would hear air hiss from water ways) so knakard seal right

so now dissemble the tank....

its sunday morning, 8.30am.. and my small compressor isnt up to the job of splitting the tank...
my other compresser is rediculously big, its like 20CFM's!... and noisy... ahh well, so i connect that up to the tank....

with the metal crimp ring removed, and a strap attached to the top of the alloy tank-to the garage roof- and ear plugs installed....

i pump the tank.. within seconds the pressure gauge is 15+ psi,.... i lunge for the mallet.. bang-bang (tank wont split) look again at the gauge 50psi and BOOM ...

i dont need to bolther saying the rest, but stupid muppet comes to mind?

sure, the tank split appart... but so did the "black plastic welded baffle," oh, and that not being enough to cry over, due to the serious over pressure, the plastic tank cocked back in the vice, and the "jaws" punctured the water jacket in a big way.

... that was an expensive experiment...

i dred to think what would have happed it i hadnt attached a cable from the garage roof to the alloy tank to stop it shooting off.

[simmy]

hi spence,,
i have just purchased a msx 150, 31 hours
i have owned 2 strokes for the last 7 years,
i am going to give it a service this weekend
and give it a blast for the 1st time!!
i have discovered a film of oil in the water reservoir,no more than a egg cup full,
other people on the site say it could be the seals in the tank,
i am from the u.k and any tips on keeping these skis in tiptop form would be grateful,
cheers simmy

[rcsscraig]

Hey all I am completely baffled now. I had water in my oil tank and I suspected it was a bad factory oil tank so I replaced it with the aftermarket oil tank from EBL. i took it out and ran it today and I am still getting freshwater in my oil. I ran it for about 30 -40 minutes and my oil was milky white again and the oil was all the way to the top of the dipstick. At least id didn't get in my intercooler this time. Any ideas on what could be causing this now. Just FYI I do believe it is freshwater because my antifreeze level is not changing. Thanks for your help.

[Redrum]

My first question would be to check if you installed the updated oil tank correctly. There is only one place where the fresh water circuit makes contact with oil and that is inside the oil tank. The other two it goes to are the heat exchanger for the engine coolant and then the intercooler. The oil cooler uses the engine coolant to circulate through it.

You could have gotten a bad updated tank, but I have never heard of this before.

Just a side note, it's best to start a new thread when this is a new problem.