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  1. #1
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Bearing housing problem!

    While winterizing my ski today, (after one cold a_ _ ride!) while greasing the drive shaft bearing housing, where the rubber seal is mated to the bearing housing on the front-top of the housing, their is a one inch split between the rubber seal and the housing allowing the grease to squeeze out? is this "split" to allow excess grease out or is this seal faulty? I noticed it when first setting up the ski and marine siliconed the split, thinking this would be enough (it wasn't)and the grease would push out at the drive shaft where i think it should squeeze out. normally grease pushes out at the seals lip at the shaft it raps around and not at the outer edge of the seal. if this is infact bad i will have to replace the whole housing unless someone has an idea on how to remate the rubber to the aluminum. Please, what should I do, or not do. THX


  2. #2
    Pistonwash's Avatar
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    Replace it...it is not worth trying to save if it has already cracked. I has simliar crack around the little circles and it caused premature bearing failure when salt water got in. replace the whole gig imo..it will save you $$$ later.

  3. #3
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pistonwash View Post
    Replace it...it is not worth trying to save if it has already cracked. I has simliar crack around the little circles and it caused premature bearing failure when salt water got in. replace the whole gig imo..it will save you $$$ later.
    thanks P.W. guessin that your sayin thats not the way this one lets out the excess grease. i'm bettin that housing aint cheap either. guess i better order one and pull the pump and install that before the spring.
    thx.

  4. #4
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Looks like I can get it done through warranty. I'll order the housing Monday and putit in this weekend. For everyone else out their, you might want to check yours when greasing as mine did it from new. With the long grease tube you might not pay attention to the bearing housing itself while greasing. Saw a couple drops of water squeeze out to while I was greasing it.

  5. #5
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAVEATER View Post
    Looks like I can get it done through warranty. I'll order the housing Monday and putit in this weekend. For everyone else out their, you might want to check yours when greasing as mine did it from new. With the long grease tube you might not pay attention to the bearing housing itself while greasing. Saw a couple drops of water squeeze out to while I was greasing it.
    Looks like you got it in time.Covered on warrenty is sweet.

  6. #6
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    You know how you know you put to much grease in there? When the hose your pumping the grease into pops off the housing.
    The hose will actually pop off and leave the exposed nippage on the housing. I've done it twice now on both my gprs. No grease should be coming out the housing. I believe Jerry can get them new for you on his online store.
    SHOOTER

  7. #7
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Been out a few days, tryin to get into the swing of things for sled season, got my Fusion ready to rock and doing a complete resto on my 93 Indy Trail. Anyway, thanks for the info Shooter, damn grease squeezes out soon as it enters the housing along the rubber lip edge, and like i was sayin it did it from new so watch out when you guys grease em. Got the new bearing housing yesterday from Yami under warranty so when I get a chance here in the next couple weeks I will install it. Never did one, think I will have to pull the motor forward to do it?

  8. #8
    You do have to move the motor forward, we have found over the years its easier do unbolt the mounts from the hull than the engine from the mounts this way its easier aligning up the 8 small holes than the 4 big holes where the engine itself bolts too.

  9. #9
    WAVEATER WAVEATER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scittb View Post
    You do have to move the motor forward, we have found over the years its easier do unbolt the mounts from the hull than the engine from the mounts this way its easier aligning up the 8 small holes than the 4 big holes where the engine itself bolts too.
    I will do as you suggest, thanks for the info!!

  10. #10
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    And sometimes when you try to take the bolts out of the mounts (motor to mount) you end up either breaking the bolt or the motor mount itself. Those things are loctited all to hell up in that SOB.
    Waveater, when you install that hose back on, you can add a ziptie to it. Pull the ziptie with a pair of pliers while pushing on the other side with a screw driver to get it on there tight. They do have some really small otticker clamps you can put on there as well. I just never used one on it. I ziptied the hell out of mine.
    SHOOTER

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