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  1. #1
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Tip of the day: Stainless Steel Wear Ring Removal

    This method was sent to me by a friend of mine. Hope it helps someone in the future.

    First step is to find yourself a piece of 2 1/4 " aluminum pipe with a 1/4" wall at least 12" long. A longer piece would work better for the extended rings, but its not that important. Make sure that the end that will be contacting the pump is smooth and free of any nicks or grind marks.



    The pipe will contact the hub of the pump as shown in this photo.





    Place the pump in the freezer for several hours. For those worried about rust, there should be plenty of grease there to protect your bearings and the seals are quite capable of handling the temps.

    Remove from the freezer and with a heat gun or touch evenly heat up the pump housing around the outside where the wear ring is located. You don't have to get it scalding hot but I would recommend gloves, since you will have to handle the pump after this.



    Once its nice and hot, turn over the pump holding it by the vanes and with your other hand place the pipe inside and line it up with the hub. Now, holding the pump and pipe with both hands, making sure the pipe is lined up with the hub, strike the tube on a hard surface, the top of your vise, cement floor etc. ****NOTE***** you are not striking the tube with the pipe, but moving the pump and pipe as one part, there should be no space at all between the pipe and the hub, this is critical to avoid damage to the hub. This method will create sufficient force to break the wear ring loose.







    It should only take a knock or two to jar it loose and then a couple more to get it out.






  2. #2
    beachbum0286's Avatar
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    Good info Jerry!! As I was installing one of the extend wear rings in last night, I was wondering how the hell I would ever get it out!!!!

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Awesome tip ! I love basic physics !

  4. #4
    GTXX's Avatar
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    looks good! to keep from fumbling with holding the pipe in place, wonder if a piece of rubber hose w/clamps to join the pump hub and the pipe together would work?

  5. #5
    Ziggy's Avatar
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    Think this method would work on a Skat pump?

  6. #6
    Ziggy's Avatar
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    Also, since a piece of 2-1/4" aluminum pipe is not readily accessible for most folks, how about using a piece of hardwood like hickory or oak? Drill the center to clear the shaft.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziggy View Post
    Also, since a piece of 2-1/4" aluminum pipe is not readily accessible for most folks, how about using a piece of hardwood like hickory or oak? Drill the center to clear the shaft.
    I believe it is a piece of chain link fence post. Every hardware store has them.

  8. #8
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    Yep the Terminal posts are 2 3/8" 17 ga. 7' is about $20. Did he mean 2 1/4' od or id?

  9. #9
    Ziggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCHeel View Post
    Yep the Terminal posts are 2 3/8" 17 ga. 7' is about $20.
    Well I tought about that, but since I wouldn't want to be banging around my aluminum pump with a chunk 'o pipe, I figured you'd buffer it with a bit of wood. Well then why not dump the pipe and use a healthy stick of hardwood? Axe handle?

  10. #10
    Norwegian Wiking Trond's Avatar
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    I just removed my ss-ring in order to mount the extended ring. Did almost like this, only simpler. I placed the pump with the ring facing down, but not resting on the ring... insted I put some wood below the pump-housing to lift the ring free. I then heated the pump-housing with a heatgun. After 10 minuts the ring was free... Almost fell out! Now I worked really quick and installed the extended ring while the housing was still hot... It dropped right in place! No banging!!

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