Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1

    97 XP, Oil injection removed improperly, Motor Blown?

    I bought a 97 XP that is bogging down and wont do much other than start up. It has good compression and was rebuilt recently (top and bottom end) I was thinking it needed the fuel lines swapped out and carbs rebuilt. However, I noticed that the previous owner switched to premix and disconnected all three oil lines so the RV hasn't been getting oil. Is the motor trashed now or is it possible that it is ok and the carbs are the problem. How do I find out if the motor is ruined and where do I go from here?


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Warner Robins, GA Home of the 2007 All-Star Little League World Champions!
    Posts
    4,361
    Did he loop the oil lines together from each side of the engine? If so the RV gear is ok. Normally if you strip a RV gear the engine will not run, and backfire because it's out of time. You may just have fuel issues.

  3. #3
    the lines were not looped and did not have any oil in them. When I pull the RV cover to do the carbs will I be able to tell if the motor is ruined?

  4. #4
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    2,717
    +1
    3
    You might actually be okay and only have the rotary valve gear starting to strip. If thats the case, your in luck. I'd tear the motor down and clean the crank out and get all the rotary gear parts out. Lucky you caught it now and not later on. I actually stripped all the gears off my 96xp and the only thing I had to do was clean out the gear shreddings out and redo everything. Crank was fine.
    SHOOTER

  5. #5
    how complicated is it to do this? Not sure I can get into taking the whole motor apart and putting it back together. Is there anyway to tell if this needs to be done?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    East of DFW
    Posts
    244
    +1
    21
    You can remove the carbs and rotary valve cover while engine is still in hull. Then rotate the crank over by hand and feel if there is any tight or loose spots with rotary shaft. If should have same backlash(which will be uniformly finate) thru the full rotation of crank. Its possible the previous owner may have grease packed the gears and bearings. If good, you can then fill the cavity with oil and block off lines if staying with premix.

  7. #7

    my 2 cents.

    We had the same problem on a 720 hx. the motor was rebuilt but the oil system was removed. the rv gear had no lube and we ran it for about 10 minutes before it completely stripped every tooth on the gear.
    Its quit easy to pull the motor out, remove the front cover, pull the flywheel off and drop the sump. I read somewhere that you dont have to worry about cleaning all of the metal out of there as the gear (bronze i think) is much softer than the crank. the heat from the stripped gear also stuffed the spring so we replaced that aswell.

    If you turn the motor over by hand and the rv is spinning.(remove the carbs and put your finger on the RV) then I would just fill the RV gear section of the crankcase with oil, loop the hoses and see how it goes. The worst thing that you will do is strip the gear and have to pull the motor down anyway. hope that helps

  8. #8
    ok, i will give it a try and see what is going on. if the RV gear is worn out, ( i think it was run for an hour or two before it started having problems) does the motor have to come out for replacement

    It sounds like worst case that the motor woudl be ok and I woudl just have to replace the RV gear?

  9. #9
    96XPSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Warner Robins, GA Home of the 2007 All-Star Little League World Champions!
    Posts
    4,361
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffro22 View Post
    ok, i will give it a try and see what is going on. if the RV gear is worn out, ( i think it was run for an hour or two before it started having problems) does the motor have to come out for replacement

    It sounds like worst case that the motor woudl be ok and I woudl just have to replace the RV gear?
    Yes, and the RV shaft bearings too...possibly. The engine has to come out, and the bottom case removed to expose the RV shaft cavity for cleaning. The shaft can be pulled by removing the c-clip under the (exposed) RV gear and pulling it out with a puller.

  10. #10

    Smile

    You do need to get all the brass out of there.It is best to split cases.It is possible to change rotary gear and bearings,shaft,seals without dropping lower half but I wouldnt.If youre going to fix and rebuild something .DO IT RIGHT,and fix it the first time,If not you will have problem after problem,Ps dont forget to index the rotary valveJMHO>Marvin

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. ultra 150 oil injection removal
    By slociviccoupe in forum Kawasaki How To & FAQs
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-02-2009, 10:56 PM
  2. 97 xp oil tank
    By diesel04 in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-06-2009, 09:35 PM
  3. Oil inject removal, hose question?
    By youpock in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-21-2008, 04:16 PM
  4. gp800 oil injection removeal question
    By w-nut in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-26-2007, 11:58 PM
  5. oil injection removal How to
    By ChewsteR in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-17-2007, 10:59 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •