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  1. #1
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Helicoil and Grate

    I plan on using helicoils with the larger M8X1.25 bolts that come with the SS intake grate (shoe side). Which helicoil to use i.e. Tang or no tang? What additional tools are needed if the no tine helicoil is used?

    Thanks, Steve


  2. #2
    westy's Avatar
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    i presume your using them in the shoe?... but why??

  3. #3
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westy View Post
    i presume your using them in the shoe?... but why??
    Strength mainly. Also, no matter how many times I drill and tap by hand, the tolerances are always greater than if I had drilled and tapped at a machine shop. I can feel the difference when running the bolt. I expect the helicoil to make up for the difference.

  4. #4
    I wouldnt even bother!!!! Just by a new shoe. Do you know what is going to happen if the grate lets go from the Helicoil?? Im not saying the helicoil wouldnt be strong enough but why take a chance with a cheap fix!!!!Dude unless you want to be in the hospital change the shoe if the tolerances are off!!!! Go straight in

  5. #5
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scittb View Post
    I wouldnt even bother!!!! Just by a new shoe. Do you know what is going to happen if the grate lets go from the Helicoil?? Im not saying the helicoil wouldnt be strong enough but why take a chance with a cheap fix!!!!Dude unless you want to be in the hospital change the shoe if the tolerances are off!!!! Go straight in
    I think maybe we're not on the same page. The shoe is fine. The grate is fine. Fact is, a grate and shoe bolt-up with a helicoil is stronger than a grate and shoe bolt-up without a helicoil. The threads of the helicoil are stronger than the existant threads. The helicoil threads are more resilient than the existing threads, especially for repeated bolt removal/insertion (i.e. changing out grates).

    The tolerance differences I was referring to are those between a hand drill and tap, and a machine drill and tap. The differences are minimal, but evident. I have tried different methods on spare material and all yield the same result. It is difficult to match a drill press and machine tap with a hand drill and hand tap. The difference is small, probably negligable, but I know its there.

    I WILL have to drill the shoe to enable the larger bolts supplied with the SS grate, if I am to use the larger bolts. Thus, with a strong SS grate, and strong SS bolts, do I use the existant threads? Or do I beef them up with a helicoil? Right now, I'm voting helicoil for the added strength. If I'm wrong about this, please let me know!

  6. #6
    XL1200Ltd-Keith's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Howestek, you are correct about the helicoil making it stronger than the original threads.

  7. #7
    JKR1300's Avatar
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    Drill & tap - forget the helicoil. We're not talking about super tight hole tolerances here. Be careful when you drill it. If you're that worried about it drill and then ream the hole. Like you stated the difference is minimal and will not make a real difference. I'm pretty anal about things I do on my ski but I think on this one you're going overboard

  8. #8
    Buaidh No Bas howestek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKR1300 View Post
    I'm pretty anal about things I do on my ski but I think on this one you're going overboard
    My wife says I'm anal and often says I'm going overboard.
    Come to think of it, my kids say the same thing.

  9. #9
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by howestek View Post
    I think maybe we're not on the same page. The shoe is fine. The grate is fine. Fact is, a grate and shoe bolt-up with a helicoil is stronger than a grate and shoe bolt-up without a helicoil. The threads of the helicoil are stronger than the existant threads. The helicoil threads are more resilient than the existing threads, especially for repeated bolt removal/insertion (i.e. changing out grates).

    The tolerance differences I was referring to are those between a hand drill and tap, and a machine drill and tap. The differences are minimal, but evident. I have tried different methods on spare material and all yield the same result. It is difficult to match a drill press and machine tap with a hand drill and hand tap. The difference is small, probably negligable, but I know its there.

    I WILL have to drill the shoe to enable the larger bolts supplied with the SS grate, if I am to use the larger bolts. Thus, with a strong SS grate, and strong SS bolts, do I use the existant threads? Or do I beef them up with a helicoil? Right now, I'm voting helicoil for the added strength. If I'm wrong about this, please let me know!
    One thing to take into account is the boss wall thickness when drilling from stock 6mm to 10mm for a helicoil. I just measured the boss on the shoe and it is 22mm so for a 8mm helicoil you would only have 6mm per side on the helicoil. As apposed to 7mm per side. Now the extra strength of the helicoil should outweigh the 1mm per side difference in wall thickness. I do not see any reason for a helicoil in this appliacition as you are going from 6mm to 8mm. If you do go with the helicoil than you want the tang type you can make the inseration tool from a bolt by grinding a tooth to grab the tang. After it is inserted then take a punch and snap the tang off so the bolt does not bottom out..

  10. #10
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    When I hand drill and tap I drill undersized to make up for the tolerance when drilling by hand.

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