Heat Extractor Kit.

Saturday, March 17th, 2007
Heat Extractor Kit. $59.95
This Modification could void your warantee. Oh and be safe and unhook that battery.
Let me explain what this modification does from R-Rated Performance.com
Lets start with the engine. It produces way more heat then any two stoke. I found that after running it hard that a high amount of heat starts to collectin the engine compartment. Often when idling I feel hot air coming from steering area. Perfectly normal on this boat since the motor and charger are contributing to this hot air. At this point the air intake is bathing in hot air along with the Relief Valve and Blow Off are venting into the intake system. At high speed the engine is then pulling enough air in that the ventilation tubes will draw in fresh cooler air. Its the slower speeds and idling that collect this hot air. Its that hot air that has to be sucked up by the motor before new air is pulled in through the ventilation hoses. These ventilation hoses are located in the front and the back of the engine compartment. See diagram below, vent hoses are circled in aqua blue. {14073}
So how does this new little item help.
Using the air rushing out the Releif Valve {16130} during low speeds and idle, the ventilators draw heated air out from the engine compartment.Since the Relief Valve is open the supercharger is blowing compressed air out this valve at a high rate. Its that blow off that this item uses to cause suction in the engine compartment drawing new cooler air from the front ventilation tubes. That way when you punch it again you will have a cooler air supply to draw from.
Locating the Ventilators in the rear was ideal as the hot exhaust boxes are right under them. This location also promotes cross ventilation inside the engine compartment.
Now some may say that you donít want suctioning of the engine compartment during full throttle operation . Correct, full throttle operation is demanding a large amount of air to be supplied to the engine. At this point you want all the air possible to be availible to the engine. Thatís whatís so cool about using the the Relief Valve. The valve opens by vacuum produced in the intake manifold at idle and part throttle operation and closes when the throttle is opened wide enough to transition the manifold into a pressured condition.
The Blow Off Valve {16130A} is set up in the same manner though it is seldom used as much. This valve is used for a brief moment when you let off the throttle and the pressure exceeds the factor set boost limit. Though from testing the unit it has shown to start a slow leak at around 5 lbs of pressure. I donít know enough to explain why this is happening but it seems to be standard with all 250X units.
Since this is a BLOG and not a professional review, Ill state my opinion that this modification will benefit the racing and recreational community. I would not recommend this modification to those who intend to jump waves or submerge the tail end of this boat.
Ok enough of the chit chat, lets get to installing.
I used a flat head screw driver, a cross tip screw driver, a rivet gun, drill with 5/32 bit, wire cutters, 10mm socket with ratchet, small torque wrench and a box cutter or scissors. Use the two diagrams below as a color referenced chart. Ill add the number next to the name as to find it easier on diagram. This modification was simple but Ill describe it well so youíll understand the complete install. Some items seem pointless but they do offer a benefit.

First carefully remove the seat base {blue 46075} by removing the four 10 mm nuts.
Then remove the duct hose adaptor {red 14073A} by using a drill and a 5/32 it to remove factory rivets. Careful to not loose the rivet backing inside the hull. You should gently drill the rivet head and use something to catch backing of rivet.
Once the rivets are out then you can gently remove the duct adapter and the attached ventilation hose. {14073} Pay special attention to the cut out in the hull. It has a section of the hole cut larger to allow the srew down clamp head to fit into it.

Now move onto the stock air box to remove the two clamps holding the two valve ducts {yellow 14073 B&C}. Be especially careful removing these duct tubes, they break easy and are needed later. Place the supllied caps onto the airbox where the tubes were removed. {green 11038}
Then remove these same tubes from the the Valves. {Blue & Pink 16130 & 16130A} Use extreme caution on the valves when removing them. Be sure to cut the zip ties that hold the upper tube to the fuel rail. Set these tubes aside with clamps removed as we will need them later.
Loosen clamp holding the Valve {Pink 16130}. Then rotate it down 20 degrees be sure not to over rotate and pinch off the vacuum line {red 92191}. Be sure to re-tighten the hose clamp on the Relief Valve {green 92170}

Remove Blow Off Valve with a 10 mm socket. { blue 16130A} Careful with the gasket. Rotate valve 180 degrees and reattach so it faces away from hull side and toward the empty ventilation holes. Torque down bolts to the Blow Off Valve to 69 in lbs.

It is now time to route the duct tubes from earlier. Lets start with the relief valve. {pink 16130} Snake the hose under all inter-cooler and throttle body tubes to the rear of hull. Slip on a hose clamp and then the smooth section of hose. This deep down slope will help in preventing water from siphoning up into valve. Pull the remainding hose up through the first hole.

Install your extractor with the hose clams collected, remeber to line up clamp heads with indented hole portion. Also be sure to line the extractor divider plate from front to rear of boat. Tighten all clamps before insertingin it into hole.
For the Blow off valve I first attached the clamp and hose to the valve. {blue 16130A} Making a deep swoop inside hull I the routed the tube to 2nd hole and folowed the steps from the 1st extractor.

Dont get in a hurry and forget the calmps on the extractor as I had did in this photo.
Now you will need to rivet down the hose adapters to the hull. {red 14073A}
I used the provided zip tie to zip the two hoses together as to aviod rubbing against inter-coller and muffler.
Now reinstall the seat base and secure the 4 bolts holding it down. Oh and hook back up your battery.
When you are finished it should look like this.

Start engine to be sure that air is blowing out of 1st hole only. 2nd wont blow untill your out and operating at full throttle and hit beyond its set psi level. Even then only a small amout will flow.