Thread: WR500F NooB questions
12-11-2008, 08:31 AM #1
WR500F NooB questions
I'm new to PWC's and have recently aquired a 89 WR500F.
Can I squeeze extra power out of it with a 650 carbi?
It has just been rebuilt with 25 thou OS pistons and also has a solas prop.
I want to get rid of the stock bilge pump and fit an electric. I've been told to set it up without a float switch and to just leave it on whilst the engine is running.
Will the generator handle the extra electrical load of the pump and does anyone have an opinion on where it should go? (Engine bay or either side of rear underseat compartment).
Is there anything I should modify/add for use in the surf?
12-11-2008, 09:24 AM #2
does the aussie version have a drain? otherwise add one to the rear (early u.s. didnt) ..ok first of all ,if its a rolling surf it will be fine otherwise a wr hull is flat and will pound you big time (no v per say)
the venturi drain works fine ( you can add the pump if you wish ,id add a switch on your throttle and cam it on at higher rpm with the carb lever) .. engine bay as it would sit there at a low point (and you have room ) get a gel cell as it can take the load... charging system should handle the load as thats all the wr has is charging (no gauges)
that said mill the head .030 ,add the 650 carb( jetting, on a 650 with the mill ,may be close ),get yourself the jet dynamics grate to load the pump in the rough..
your stock f/a is fine to use as it has better roll over surf protection
you could look for a pipe but they are hard to find now.. shim your plate about 1/2 inch down to help drive the nose down...(get the longest you can find...
boar out your nozzel for more bottom end (will kill the top a tad,but if surf is where you ride, youll need that more,0
a tdr waterbox could help.. at least top end..(ebay buy)
a ss impeller will help to keep the cavitation down... (you will burn the backside of the aluminum,it just happens on a wr)
12-11-2008, 10:43 AM #3
I added an extra drain on portside last week as there was heaps of sand and water collecting down there.
What is f/a?
Prop is S/S. and I've sorta ported the rear housing...It had a nice layer of oxidization so I cleaned it with acid and sanded(and polished) it smooth.
Should I shim the cav plate evenly?
12-11-2008, 11:26 AM #4
f /a is the flame arrestor on the carb.. the wr has a shell over it to help keep water out especialy in roll over...
the polish may slow you as it created more surface tension ..rough it up with 80 grit..
(from memory on qtys*) install 6-8* .051 thous washers on rear bolts,3 on the next set up, and zip on the fronts (you will need longer bolts at the rear and center accordingly ...install the front then the next and then the rear last(you can gauge the ammounts you will need as the angle developes.... the plate may set a touch higher in front than the grate end, which is fine... check the sealing foams at the pump housing sides to body and silicone the grate in,at the front and rear, to help lessen cavitation...
12-12-2008, 06:53 AM #5
12-12-2008, 09:00 AM #6
yes the gasket kits are all the same as far as the use of components ..the yamaha gaskets were at one time made of asbestos .. since then the new ones are made of other materials and yami's have a metal shield installed on the big plate gasket at the exhaust/muffler mount, for burn proof capabilitys.. ( it takes some time to burn one thru anyway,so any gasket set makers will work for a good many years)
the bit about the .051 thous is for your plate washer shiming question
pictures soon to be posted as I have a camera that works now!!
12-12-2008, 10:02 AM #7
the yamaha 500 motors came with a 38mm mikuni carb. the 650, had a 44mm carb. these will not intercange. the mounting bolt spacing is different.
same with the flame arrestor mounting, the 38mm has 3-bolts, and the 44 has 4, so even "if" you did some how adapt a 44mm carb, you could NOT reuse your original f/a.
12-12-2008, 10:41 AM #8
john is right ,i'm thinking of the interchange between the later sbn 500 carb(square pump diaf) and not the early sb round body ...try to find the square body, its a better carb,same flange spread and if i remember correctly the venturi is bigger (ottomh:round body measures at the venturi 'choke' at 28 mm ...the square at 32mm, i will check and measure tonight to be accurate)
12-12-2008, 11:23 AM #9
The plate is approx 8mm(shizen..umm..5/16") so there is a mega step between it and the bottom of the hull. I've got some rectangular aluminum bar lying around somewhere that might pack it out and bring it back to a more respectable level before shimming it out with the 51 thou washers.
I'll have a crack at it tomorrow if I get a chance.
Carbi is a blow, but $#!t evidently, does happen.
12-12-2008, 12:11 PM #10
there was an alloy sheet plate sold for years..does your have a few angle cut outs on center,at the rear ? and or have 2 fins or 2 small holes along the length of it where they use to be ?
there's usually one or two 'o/e', on the u/s ebay all the time ... check your aussie ebay... im sure they show up every now and then too...
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By drtbk4ever in forum Kawasaki Open DiscussionReplies: 35Last Post: 07-11-2008, 09:40 AM
By yami_rida#26 in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 6Last Post: 05-30-2008, 06:25 PM
By drtbk4ever in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)Replies: 12Last Post: 05-03-2008, 06:30 PM
By Yankfan4L in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 5Last Post: 06-26-2007, 08:29 PM
By jimv311 in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 6Last Post: 05-22-2007, 08:21 PM