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  1. #1

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    Extra cooling for single pipe/OEM heads

    Well as the title indicates I'm looking for input on extra cooling for my single pipe with milled OEM heads. What can I do to increase the water flow and get better cooling?

    Any info would be great! Pictures help because I can't read!


  2. #2
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Why do you think something is wrong with your cooling now? Yami has some of the best cooling systems I've seen. However, if you ride in 100 plus heat, with 80 plus water, and ride WOT for a long time, then yeah, it might be wise to get a few extra gallons through the engine. Is it easy??? NOPE. It's not complicated, but attention to detail is paramount. Read the next paragraph and memorize it, if you are head strong to do this...

    THE VERY MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU CAN DO, IS GET A OIL PRESSURE GAUGE AND DOCUMENT WHAT YOUR STOCK COOLING CIRCUIT PRESSURE IS.... YES, I'M YELLING!!!!

    If you feel so inclined to make cooling changes in the future, then you will know what pressure to match. If you go over this pressure, then you will blow past gaskets, and scream bloody murder as you blow up pistons.

    Your limiting factors are the exhaust manifold gasket, and the cooling holes in your gp13r head gasket. So if you just add more water, then you are actually creating more problems. HOWEVER, if you plan to open up your exhaust gaskets, open up your head gaskets, and add numerous pissers to your water system, then you can equalize your pressure (with greater flow) back to 30-40ish.

  3. #3

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    Well I'm porting and raising compression on the OEM heads. If you think I'll be ok, then that's cool. I wasn't looking forward to working on it. I just didn't want to over heat with the new work.

  4. #4
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    I'd guess you'd be fine.

    It still wouldn't hurt to find out what pressure you are running on your head.

    You know on the 13r head, there are those two pipe plugs on the head. If you are keeping the head but having it cut, those can be removed... well, they can be drilled out, and then the excess aluminum can be cleaned from the aluminum head. It's harder than just putting a pressure gauge inline, but it is really the only accurate way to see what your head cooling pressure is...and that is the pressure that matters the most. That allen capp'd plug is aluminum, so it won't screw out. But you can drill it out, and clean the threads.

    See my water fitting behind the number one cylinder?


  5. #5

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    Ya, so that's a presure gauge? What gauge are you using? Is there any I should stay away from? I love the idea... I think I'll go digital!

  6. #6
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    No that is my 3rd cooling line off my head. That is where I put the gauge to make sure I didn't overpressure it. I used the cheapest oil pressure gauge from autozone that they had, and made a makeshift tee to hook into this hole to see what the head was reading. Once I had the number I was looking for (in my case 38psi) I hooked it all up and put the gauge back in it's box. I sprayed it down with oil. For the cooling dump lines, I ended up with two 5/8" cooling lines out of the head, and one 1/2" line into a UMI 1/2" pisser. One of the two 5/8" lines is feeding hot water to the factory pipes which dump out of 3 standard 3/8 pissers. The other 5/8 line dumps straight out the stock dump.

    When I go to a high pressure pump, I plan to do it all over again, to verify the pressure in the head didn't change. If I had stock exhaust gaskets and stock head gaskets, then it wouldn't change, much. As it is, the restrictions for MY engine are the pissers. This isn't true for the gp12r, and even MORE so for the 13r.








  7. #7
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    good info to share

  8. #8
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Just trying to keep folks from going bonkers.

    Moral of story:
    The extra water VOLUME does cool better, but you better keep the pressure the same as stock. It's not always easy.

  9. #9
    The holes on the stock head gasket are there for a reason. On a single piper as the water rushes thru the water thru the exhaust manifold I yields water volume to the front cylinder. The different holse sizes on the exhaust manifold and head gasket equalize this pressure. I only openup the head gasket holes on my triple piper due to dual cooling.

    Opening the water holes can leave undesired burrs that will not allow the gasket to fully seat.

    IMO is better to leave the block coolling system alone on a single piper.

  10. #10

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    All the info is great!

    My main concern was increased temps due to the work that I'm doing. If it's not an issue then I'm good to go.

    Overall I'm looking to build RELYABLE power not just power. I don't want to take extra risks just to save a penny!

    I'm HOPING!!! to be able to post info on my project in the next month or so. As we all know it's a waiting game!

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