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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Welcome JJW, Polaris Virage i in Australia

    Please welcome JJW, who sent me a PM regarding his friend's Virage i (twin cylinder, fuel injected, I think).

    JJW, do take a moment to update your Profile, and tell us a little bit about yourself, and your PWC interest.

    What model year is your Virage i?
    Last two digits on the HIN number plate are the model year.

    Quote Originally Posted by JJW
    Being an old fart I am new to this Forum stuff, hope you can help

    I have a friend's 2003 Virage i sitting in my driveway. It has not done a lot of miles but he did not look after it at all.

    He had the first problem when he blocked the intake of the small pipe that cools the EMM unit, I unblocked this but the craft cut out after heating up, funnily it would start when cold.

    Next the water injection solenoid fell apart and the dealer instructed him to by-pass the solenoid and hook the coolant pipe direct to the exhaust. No difference to the cutting out problem.

    He left it with the dealer for months and was eventually told that the starter was broken.

    When I took the starter out 3 teeth on the gear assembly had been ripped off and the teeth on the flywheel were chipped.

    I replaced the gear assembly and the engine turns over but will not run.

    The engine runs for a second or two but then back fires very loudly. I think that the dealer damaged the gear when he continued to try to get it to start against the back fire.

    There is a spark at the plugs, they have been re-newed, and there is fuel. I replaced the fuel in case it was old and useless.

    I took out the injectors and turned the engine over, it seems that both injectors spray at the same time but not on a mist, more of a random spray pattern.

    When I put the injectors back in the engine fired but only for a few seconds.

    Have you came across this problem before and any ideas.

    Your advice is much appreciated.

    cheers JJW
    Click here to download the Polaris Factory Service Manual (2002 or 2003 would be the best choices for a Virage i). They are in Adobe PDF format.

    Click here to download the latest PDF Reader from Abode (you just need the FREE READER download).

    From what you have told me, my initial comments are as follows;

    If there was enough sediment/sand/stuff to clog up the EMM cooling flow, then there may be a lot more sediment clogging the rest of the engine water jacket and cooling flow. I suggest you do take the time to remove hoses and check for sediment build up, and ensure proper cooling flow.

    The water injection solenoid is not a critical piece, so removing it should not cause any problems.

    Are you certain that the flywheel is properly indexed on the shaft keyway when it was re-installed?

    There are several things that can cause the symptoms you have described on a Ficht fuel injected Polaris.

    There have been a number of other owners on here that have worked through their Ficht diagnosis. Do take some time to use the Search function within the Polaris section. Lots of good info can be found.

    Start with checking the voltage feeding the fuel injectors. The White/Red wire MUST be above 20 volts when cranking (measured to engine ground), and immediately rise to 40ish volts when the engine starts. It should be checked with both injectors connected, but you can unplug one injector for an initial voltage check (lanyard in place, engine cranking).

    If the injector voltage is not as described, then the injectors will not fire properly.

    Also, the fuel pressure, fed by the electric fuel pump in the tank, must be above 20 PSI as soon as the engine starts cranking. Check it at the schrader valve tee in the return fuel line. If the fuel pressure is near zero, then the injectors will not work properly.

    I presume you have checked compression, crank index, reed valves, and other 2-stroke basics already.

    The spark plugs must be the OEM spec NGK part number - no substitutes allowed.

    Sometimes the TPS (throttle position sensor) fails, and can cause a no start condition. Once you have checked the above, you can try disconnecting the TPS connector (near the throttle body), and see if it starts.

    Let us know the results of the above checks, and we can go from there.


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums JJW!!

  3. #3
    OLDJETSKIMAN's Avatar
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    JJW WELCOME, Merry Christmas to down under!!!! These guys are awsome. They will get thru anything plus parts. Welcome again to the forum

  4. #4

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    Virage i 2003 will not start

    K447
    I have tried all of the usual things with new spark plugs installed " correct ones as per the factory manual".
    The fuel delivery pressure is 20psi with the plugs removed.
    I turned the engine over and measured 23volts at each connection to the injectors.
    I have measured each cylinder at TDC by removing the injectors and the distance is the same on each cylinder. Compression check confirms that pressure is good and within 5psi of each cylinder.
    All coolant lines were checked and cleaned out when I changed out the starter gear, no blockages there.
    The flywheel has only one keyway and should not be out of line.
    A mechanic did carry out a quick check and informed me that the reed valves are OK.
    Fuel has been changed so should be good.
    The engine refuses to start / run but the odd thing is that every once in a while the engine will fire and run for a second or 2 but most of the time it will backfire sometimes severly. I think this caused the initial damage to the starter shaft when it ripped the teeth of of the shaft.
    I have noticed that there is no voltage at the connection to the throttle position controller, I assume that this is the TPC that I have seen you refer to in other parts of the forum.
    So still stuck at moment and I am getting worried that I will damage the shaft or flywheel if I continue turning the engine over. The local dealer did suggest that the EMM is U/S and the cost for a new one will be in excess of $3,000 Aus.
    Any further hep is much appreciated.

    cheers JJW

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Good reporting!

    Check the CPS sensor coil resistance (mounted right at the top of the flywheel housing). Should be under 200 ohms.

    The injector feed voltage needs to be checked with all injectors connected. Was that the case for your 23 volt measurement?

    Check that you have solid spark during cranking. Then put the plugs back in, dribble a little fuel into each throttle body intake, and see if it starts. Don't stand over the engine, in case it backfires.

    If it starts, then the problem is fuel delivery. If it does not start with some fuel dribbled, then unplug the TPS, and a bit more fuel, and try again.

    The TPS is powered by 5 volts from the EMM, while the engine is cranking. If you have no voltage at the TPS with the engine rotating, then there is a problem. Check the wiring, and the contacts under the big EMM connector for corrosion.

    The flywheel has only one keyway, but if the key has been sheared (by the backfiring), or was not installed correctly, then it will cause problems.

    The EMM can be repaired by DFI Technologies. I don't have the URL handy, but I have posted it in previous threads. Cost is generally reported to be $250-$450US

    If you can find/borrow another EMM from any Polaris Ficht engine, you can install it as a temporary test. If it works, then your EMM needs repair. If an EMM swap doesn't help, then the flywheel stator is suspect.

    The only caveat with swapping EMMs is that each EMM is flow matched to the injectors, so you should not run the engine at high power or under load with mis-matched injectors. But it should start and idle no problem, and even rev up out of the water without stumbling.

    We had a few other Ficht owner's with similar symptoms report that manually adding a bit of fuel allowed it to start, and sometimes allowed it to continue to run once it reached idle RPM and above.

    If you want to purchase a replacement EMM, the best method is to purchase a used EMM with matching injectors. This maintains the pairing of injectors to EMM.

    Most of the used EMM I have seen available have been from three cylinder Polaris engines. I do not know if a three cylinder Ficht EMM can be used on a two cylinder Ficht engine (but I suspect you can), nor which two of the three injectors you would utilize.

    BTW, it is not necessary to put the hull in water, or even connect garden hose for cooling, until you manage to get the engine to run for more than about 20 seconds. You don't need cooling water until you have engine heat.

    There are a few GreenHulk members in Oz, and even a couple with Polaris. I don't know if any have a spare EMM.

  6. #6

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    I would first say lets start at the beginning. Was the ski running before this started or just since you have taken it out for your summer there?

  7. #7
    Bernie's Avatar
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    JJW i have the wrench .Give me a pm with your number and you can bring it over to my place and we will sort it out .

    Bernie

  8. #8

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    Bernie awsome, way to step it up down under.

  9. #9
    Bernie's Avatar
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    EMM was U/S @49 hrs 3229 degrees btdc for spark delivery .Emm temp had maxed at 102 degrees C (lent it to friend whom had it idling on the beach).Ski is immaculate ,as good as it came out the factory ,not a mark on it .Set TPS and removed water inj and away it goes

    Cheers

    Bernie

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie View Post
    EMM was U/S @49 hrs 3229 degrees btdc for spark delivery.

    EMM temp had maxed at 102 degrees C (lent it to friend whom had it idling on the beach).

    ...Set TPS and removed water injection and away it goes...
    Good stuff Bernie!

    Max EMM recorded temp was slightly above boiling water!

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