Thread: Ultra 150/STXR Dominator3 pipe
01-05-2009, 05:07 PM #1
Ultra 150/STXR Dominator3 pipe
All my knowledge of it do date. Thanks to everyone who shared info.
All three pipe mods will work great with CV carbs (modified or not). For stock CV carbs, we supply new main jets. We recommend changing out the main jets in modded carbs as well (regardless of who's carb modification).
The SP2S "Dominator 3" exhaust system is a stage 3 exhaust modification.
Some people want a milder mod that looks 100% stock and the Dominator 1 (D1) fits the bill while delivering improved performance all the way through the powerband (it's just milder performance than a D2, D3 or D-X). The D1 will outperform a simple stinger mod as far as top speed is concerned and match it in acceleration, even though it doesn't use a Jetworks valve on the stinger.
The SP2S Dominator 2 (D2) exhaust system adds the single point, single stage water injection set-up just like what you have now, except that it has the full porting of the D1 system. The work is very extensive (about 3-4 hours worth of labor in the exhaust manifold alone). The YR 2002+ spec D2 also adds a secondary cooling line so that cooling water is not robbed from the motor and injected into the exhaust stinger. The main chamber is also modified. The D2 is simple to install and tune for just about anyone with little to no experience. The D2 is a noticeable step up from the D1 especially throttle response and mid range acceleration, with small gains in top speed over the D1 (approx. 1.5 mph average).
The SP2S Dominator 3 (D3) exhaust adds about 2 hours more labor time to complete the manifold and an extra 2 hours of labor in the stinger section of the pipe. It also adds dual point, dual stage water injection to the stinger section which is far superior than a single point, single stage water injection delivery system. The D3 also adds a secondary cooling line which adds 100% more cooling water. The original D2 and your "stinger" set-up robs 35-40% of the engines water supply needed for cooling. The latest D2 config uses the same dual inlet waterlog of the D3. The D3 is also alot more sophisticated as far as installation and takes a couple of hours of tuning on the water to get the most out of it. The result is a 20-22hp gain, phenominal bottom end (hair trigger throttle response) and better pull through the mid range with up to 2 to 3 mph gain depending on other mods you've used to complement the system.
The latest version is the race spec Dominator X (D-X) pipe. It is basically the same as the D3 but there is additional work done in the exhaust manifold, main chamber and stinger sections. The entire exhaust system is then shipped to Extrudehone for their super smooth surface finishing. SP2S also adds a third Jet-Works valve to the main water injection point, which allows adjustablility from 1500 rpm to 6000 rpm. Performance Engineering won the 2004 World Finals Novice RA 1200 Limited Championship using the D-X pipe against a slew of triple and double piped STX-Rs, GPRs and Sea-Doos. We also finished 2nd overall at the National Championships in Nashville in the same class. So I guess it does work afterall. :P heh
Many people try to correlate our success with our race program as our mods being "race" only modifications. This couldn't be further from the truth! The real truth of the matter is, we take our recreational turn-keys and just add a little more compression and a little more timing advance, use slightly different pitched impellers/nozzle combinations and that is about it as far as the differences. We don't use expensive triple pipes (or Skat-Trak pumps or any other race oriented mods) because we don't sell them. We race what we sell. We also happen to win with what we sell. What does that say about our products?
Since every boat is different, and I am not the one doing the install and initial tuning, I cannot possibly tell you exactly how fast your boat will go. I can say it will be much quicker and noticeably faster on GPS and radar. The acceleration gains are phenominal, even over the "stinger" mod. Also, keep in mind there is a performance guaranty. I've seen a few Ultras pick up as much as 3 mph. Some only 1 mph. Some Ultras need their pumps shimmed and or the impeller repitched to get even more top speed. That's part of the tuning process. I would find someone to install and tune the pipe if you don't have enough confidence doing this type of work.
The water injection tuning is explained in the instructions that come with the pipe. I don't want to give away all my secrets for "free" as then anyone could just do the dual point, dual stage water injection on any pipe! I can say the tuning instructions are VERY detailed. A couple of hours to tune the D3 is worse case scenario. It takes me approximately 20 minutes to dial in the D3, but I've done around 75 install/tunes. I preset the valves and number them so they are very close.
If for some reason the carbs need a different size main jet, we will swap them out at no charge. I use 166.5, 168, 170 and 175 main jets depending on level of mods.
Top end isn't too bad for a single pipe race boat either. Right before Havasu my Limited GPSed at 68.3, 68.5, 68.1 and 68.3 mph in smooth water (and got there in a big hurry). Please keep in mind that our raceboats are Limiteds, set up for closed course racing only, with larger ID exit nozzles and acceleration biased Skat-Trak Swirl impellers. At Texoma, we were running too large of a reduction nozzle which limited our top end to around 66-67 mph.
01-05-2009, 05:12 PM #2
Directions that came with the pipe.
Dominator 3 Installation Instructions
Be sure to read these instructions fully before installing exhaust system
THIS PRODUCT IS SOLD FOR RACE PURPOSES ONLY!
Step by step installation guide: '02-'05 Kawasaki 1200 STX-R
Tools you will need for the job:
3/8ths drive socket wrench
10mm open end wrench
11mm open end wrench
12mm open end wrench
14mm open end wrench
19mm open end wrench
5mm allen wrench
Small cutting dykes
Medium sized flathead screwdriver
Small sized flathead screwdriver
Tube of clear RTV silcone
New OEM exhaust gasket (between head pipe and exhaust manifold)
New OEM exhaust manifold gaskets
1/2" drill bit
1/4" drill bit
1/4" pipe threa tap
1. Remove 10mm bolt that holds steering cable to turn nozzle
2. Remove the four 12mm bolts that hold the reduction nozzle to the pump and remove nozzle
3. Remove the four 14mm bolts that holds the pump to the intake bracket shoe
4. For Kawasaki STX-R watercraft, remove the ride plate by removing the eight 5mm allen bolts
5. Remove the clamp that holds the water hose to the left side of the pump and pull hose off pump side
6. Using your 12" socket wrench extension, gently pry the pump away from bracket shoe
7. Drill the boss on the right side of pump and tap with 1/4" tap thread
8. Screw in the supplied 1/2" brass elbow (be sure to remember to use teflon tape on threads)
9. Angle the 1/2" brass elbow so that it is in the 11 o'clock position (slightly torwards the rear of boat)
10. While the pump is removed, connect the 2" long supplied 5/8ths hose to the 5/8ths to 1/2" plastic reducer
11. Remove syphon bilge rubber hoses from nozzle and thru-hull fittings
12. Fill the right side thru-hull fitting with silicone
13. Connect the approx. 9" long 1/2" tubing to the reducer
14. Attach the 5/8ths side of hose assembly to the left side thru-hull fitting
15. Attach the 1/2" side of hose assemby to 1/2" brass elbow on pump. Use clamps to secure both sides
16. Remove seat and locate syphon bilge assembly and remove hoses
17. Attach black 5/8ths inch hose to second 5/8ths to 1/2" plastic reducer and secure with supplied clamp
18. Attach long 1/2" ID hose to other end of plastic 5/8ths to 1/2" reducer abd secure with clamp
19. Push 5/8ths side of long hose assembly onto other side of thru-hull fitting and secure with clamp
20. Using the remaining two 1/2" brass elbows, screw them into the waterlog (use teflon tape on threads)
21. Angle elbows so that the rear one is parallel with waterlog body and the front one is at a 2 o'clock position
22. Attach new long 1/2" hose to front 1/2" brass elbow and secure with clamp
23. Attach OEM original black 1/2" inlet hose from pump to the rear 1/2" brass elbow and secure with clamp
24. Place a small film amount of clear RTV silicone to the waterlog gaskets and install them on cylinder studs
25. Install waterlog using the 10mm socket with short extension and tighten 10mm nuts that hold waterlog to cylinders. Do not over tighten
26. Cut new 1/2" water line approximately 15 inches from thru-hull fitting and add 1/2" to 3/8ths plastic "T" assembly #2 main water injection line (see schematics)
27. Cut OEM original 1/2" water line approximately 14 inches from OEM thru-hull fitting (from pump) and add the second 1/2" to 3/8ths plastic "T" assembly (see schemetics)
28. Screw in 1/4" "misting" water nozzle in rear port on stinger. Be sure to tighten nozzle so that sprayer nozzle direction is pointing torwards waterbox and use teflon tape on threads
29. Screw in 3/8ths "main water" nozzle in top port on stinger. Be sure to use teflon tape on threads. Screw in supplied 3/8ths elbow in pipe water outlet. Make sure to use teflon tape on threads.
30. Install stinger section to main chamber of exhaust system with the eight 12mm collared bolts. Be sure to install the rubberized metal gasket between pipe and stinger section correctly
31. Install supplied main jets into CV carbs
32. Install new exhaust manifold gaskets and install exhaust manifold using your socket wrench with small extension and 12mm socket and tighten the chrome nuts to 25 ft lbs
33. Put a very light film of clear RTV silicone on gasket that goes between head pipe (main chamber) and exhaust manifold and attach it to exhaust manifold. Be sure to install gasket with "up" marking facing up and that all the holes line up completely. Let silcone dry.
34. You will need to cut down your exhaust hose that connects the stinger to the waterbox. You will need to cut the big end side of the hose off
35. Attach modified OEM exhaust hose to end of stinger section and add two large clamps but do not tighten clamps at this time
36. Install the pipe by pushing the modified OEM exhaust hose onto the waterbox but do not tighten clamps yet
37. Install the two 14mm support bolts and tighten them 3-4 turens but do not fully tighten them at this time
38. Install the three 12mm bolts at headpipe location but do not fully tighten
39. Torque the two 14mm support bolts to 22 ft lbs
40. Torque the three 12mm bolts at head pipe area to 22 ft lbs
41. Adjust exhaust hose as needed and trim excess hose from pipe with razorblade if needed
42. Tighten exhaust hose clamps
43. Install Jetworks valve #1 to 1/2" to 3/8ths plastic "T" assembly that is attached to OEM black hose. Note direction of arrow on the valve body making sure the arrow is pointing upwards
44. Install Jetworks valve #2 to 1/2" to 3/8ths plastic "T" assembly that is attached to new 1/2" cooling water hose. Note direction of arrow on the valve body making sure the arrow is pointing upwards
45. Install short piece of yellow 3/8ths tubing onto Jetworks valve #1 and secure with supplied clamp
46. Install short piece of yellow 3/8ths tubing onto Jetworks valve #2 and secure with supplied clamp
47. Push the supplied plastic 3/8ths to 1/4" reducer onto other side of yellow 3/8ths tubing and secure with supplied clamp
48. Push long piece of yellow 3/8ths hose directly to #2 Jetworks valve and secure with supplied clamp
49. Push the supplied 1/4" clear hose onto other end of plastic reducer and secure using two supplied small zip ties
50. Push the long yellow 3/8ths hose that is attached to the #2 Jetworks valve onto the 3/8ths brass barbed fitting you installed at the top of the stinger section and secure witha clamp
51. Push the other end of the 1/4" clear hose (from Jetworks valve #1) onto the brass "misting" water nozzle and secure with supplied larger sized zip tie
52. Re-install pipe temp. sensor in top of head pipe using the open end 14mm wrench and tighten. Do not over tighten as these are prone to snapping off at the threads
53. Re-install carburators
54. If you do not want drill holes in your top deck it will be neccessary to remove your rear tow hook and use the two 1/2" holes for your by-pass fittings. If you decide to go this route you will need to send us back your 90 degree by-pass fitting and we will exchange it for a second 45 degree by-pass fitting.
55. Drill 1/2" hole in rear left side of top deck (there is a small flat area right below grab handle) and install 90 degree aluminum by-pass fitting. Angle pisser outlet back and slightly down and tighten nut on back side of fitting with 19mm open end wrench.
56. Drill your second 1/2" hole in the very rear of the top deck below the grab handle and install the supplied 45 degree aluminum by-pass fitting. Angle pisser outlet down and tighten nut on back side of fitting with 19mm open end wrench.
57. Install longest 3/8ths hose to 3/8ths brass elbow and secure with supplied clamp
58. Run the longest 3/8ths line to the 90 degree by-pass fitting and secure with supplied clamp
59. Remove the OEM flush kit fitting on the side of the pipe main body and screw in second 3/8ths brass elbow. Attach 3/8ths to 1/4" by-pass assembly with 3/8ths hose end to brass elbow on pipe and secure with supplied clamp. run the 1/4" tubing to the 45 degree by-pass fitting and secure with supplied clamp. You will need to re-install OEM flush kit assembly when you flush your engine with water.
More directions that came with them
Singlepipe Performance Systems
Dominator 3 exhaust system (Kawasaki STX-R & Ultra 150)
Thank you for your purchase of the Dominator 3 exhaust system from Singlepipe Performance Systems. This exhaust system has been designed and engineered to give you improved watercraft performance while retaining stock like reliability.
PLEASE READ COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION!
You will need to completely remove your factory syphon bilge system from your Kawasaki STX-R watercraft and either add an electric bilge or duckbill quick drain plugs. THIS PRODUCT IS SOLD FOR RACE PURPOSES ONLY!
1. Install dual inlet waterlog using new gaskets. DO NOT put silicone on these gaskets!It may be easier to install both incoming 1/2" cooling lines and tighten down the two clamps before reinstalling the dual inlet waterlog.
2. Reroute your OEM cooling line that comes from the pump so that it will run the same path as your new 1/2" line. This cooling line should be attached to the rear 1/2" elbow on the waterlog
3. Cut the OEM cooling line matching location of new cooling line "T" and add the supplied 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8 "T" use two of the supplied (medium) clamps. Angle the "T" so that the 3/8ths nipple is pointing straight up.
4. Install new and old water lines to waterlog. The new cooling line should attach to front cooling fitting and the OEM cooling line should attach to the rear fitting. As stated above, it easier to attach these cooling hoses BEFORE you bolt down the dual water log
5. Using one of the bilge thru-hull fittings on STX-R watercraft, attach new cooling line that runs to front fitting on water log. You will need to utilize the small portion of 5/8ths hose and use the 1/2" to 5/8ths reducer. Install the 5/8ths side of the hose to the vacant thru-hull fitting and use clamps. Insert the 1/2" hose to other side of reducer and use supplied clamp. Then run the line to the front 1/2" elbow on the waterlog (as stated before it may be easier to do this BEFORE bolting down the waterlog to the cylinders.
6. Install brass water injection mist nozzle #2 in second (rear) threaded hole on stinger
7. Install brass "high speed" water injection fitting #1 (5/16ths size) in first (front) closest to top of stinger section
8. If you are going to run the Dominator III exhaust modification on a CV carburator equipped boat, you must use the supplied 166 main jets
9. You must drill and tap your pump for the second 1/2 brass elbow (1/4" thread). Use the boss that is opposite of OEM boss (see picture)
10. For STX-R applications, angle the 1/2" elbow that is at new location on right side of the pump so that it it is in the 11 o'clock position when tight. This keeps the cooling hose from binding up. Attach the second supplied 5/8ths to 1/2" reducer with the second small section of 5/8ths hose and attach to other side of thru hull fitting and attach the 1/2" side to the 1/2" elbow that you installed in your pump (see picture). For Ultra 150 watercraft, angle the new 1/2" elbow that is on the left side of the pump to the 12 o'clock position.
11. There is an optional bypass that replaces the water flushing kit on the main chamber of the pipe. This bypass uses a 1/4" brass elbow which should be pointed torwards the back of the boat. Use the supplied 1/4" clear hose and 1/4 to 3/8ths reducer and drill hole in left side rear of top deck just below grab handle location. If you operate in salt water or need to flush your ski on a regular basis, do not use this bypass.
12. Install the 3/8ths brass elbow at the top of the stinger and run the supplied 18-20" long yellow 3/8ths hose to the rear of the top deck. You will need to drill a hole in the rear top deck just below your grab handle and install the 45 degree billet aluminum bypass fitting. Angle this fitting so water sprays downward. use supplied clamps to secure water lines.
13. Use teflon tape on all threaded brass fittings
You will need to drill and tap your pump to accept the supplied brass 1/4 inch pipe thread 1/2 inch elbow
Tuning instructions (Dominator 3)
Your Dominator 3 exhaust water injection system is preset to generic settings from the factory. However, some fine tuning will be neccessary to achieve optimum performance. To tune the bottom end of the powerband it will be neccessary to plug the mist nozzle #2 and run the hose outside of the hull so you can see the water as it exits the valve. You can do this by adding a longer section of 1/4" or 3/16ths hose depending on which nozzle you are using. It is recommended that you leave the seat off for this tuning process. You can perform this test on the trailer with the boat tied down front and rear. Back your trailer in the water enough so that the pump and intake grate are submerged. Completely warm up your engine. It is highly recommended that you purchase an aftermarket tachometer to make it easier to tune. While on the boat and slowly revving the engine up (under load) watch the exit hose from the #2 injection nozzle and note the rpm range that the water begins to flow. Optimal water flow "on" to the #2 injection mist nozzle is 2900-2950 rpm. If you notice the water flowing under or over that rpm range, you will need to adjust the Jetworks valve. To adjust the water valve so that the water comes on earlier, turn the valve body counter clockwise until the desired rpm range for water "on" is achieved. If the water needs to come on at a later rpm, turn the valve clockwise to achieve the desired rpm where the valve opens. After dialing in the #2 mist nozzle valve, reconnect the hose to the nozzle. Remove the hose that connects to the #1 "high speed" nozzle and plug the nozzle. Route the waterline so that it dumps water over the side of the hull so that you can visually see where in the rpm range the water comes "on". Optimal setting for the "high speed" #1 valve is 4500-5000 rpm. Where you set the valve in the 4500-5000 rpm "window" will depend on many variables, such as carburator tuning etc. We recommend the water to come "on" at 4500 rpm when using the OEM CV carbs. If you are not seeing a noticeable gain in rpm on top end, it will be neccessary to remove the 5/16th #2 "high speed" nozzle and replace it with a 3/8ths #2 "high speed" nozzle (available from Performance Engineering or SP2S) and repeat the high speed tuning portion. You want the low speed nozzle to inject water at 2900 rpm and then have the second high speed nozzle start injecting water in the 4500 to 5000 rpm range. Some finer adjustment to the 2900/4500-5000 rpm "on" settings may be neccessary depending on other modifications such as porting, compression, reed valve/reeds used etc. If you are having problems getting the valve to open at higher rpm, it will be neccessary to remove the Jetworks valve and disassemble it. This can be done by turning the lower portion of the valve counter clockwise. This unscrews the valve and you will find the plunger ball and a spring inside. To get more tension on the spring it will be neccessary to stretch it some until you get the water to come on in the 4500-5000 rpm zone. You may have to repeat this process a few times (disassembly of the valve and stretching the spring).Use our suggestions as a guideline only. If you do not feel that you have enough two stroke knowledge to properly tune the Dominator III pipe modification, find a qualified personal watercraft technician to install and tune the system to your application. IMPROPER installation or tuning of the Dominator 3 exhaust modification could result in damage to your engine.
We cannot take responsibility for improperly installed or tuned watercraft. Use at YOUR own risk!
We guaranty for 30 days after the sale that this pipe modification will improve the performance of your Kawasaki STX-R or Ultra 150 watercraft when installed and tuned correctly by a qualified PWC technician.
If you need technical advice concerning the Dominator 3 exhaust modification, please drop us an e-mail at Singlepipe@aol.com
01-05-2009, 05:18 PM #3
01-05-2009, 05:19 PM #4
01-05-2009, 05:22 PM #5
01-05-2009, 08:37 PM #6
01-05-2009, 08:49 PM #7
Great info, wish this was arround when I got mine.
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