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  1. #1

    Pump Housing Installation Question

    I'm ordering parts to reseal the transom pump housing on my 1997 SLTX. Among other seals, the parts manual calls for 4ea. 7555941 washer/seal. These apparently go on the 4 studs that attach the housing to the transom.

    My question: Are these reusable washers, or are these the washer/oring type stato-seals that should be replaced?

    Also, any tips or suggestions on this job?

    Thanks,
    Kevin


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Are you talking the bolts/studs on the inside of the hull?

    Or #32 from this diagram? http://partsland.com/index.cgi?N=123...LTX-PROPULSION

    Pretty sure those are plain old O rings.

    If you're installing the wear ring to hull, you'll need to align the engine to pump. So you'll need to borrow or buy the alignment tool.

  3. #3
    Yes, i'm wondering about #32. There are 4 and they cost $5.50 each, so i'm thinking they must be something special?

    I'm out of town and I don't have my shop manual with me, but i assume the stud goes through the transom and these washer/seals act to seal the stud?

    I did pm Beerdart about renting his alignment tool, thanks!

  4. #4
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Yes they do seal the stud.I think they are a harder rubber style.I would only use the factory ones,so you know they are the right duramoter.(hardness)

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    It's been a while since my pump has been off, but don't remember anything special about the O rings to cover $5 a piece.

    I'm assuming your ski is missing them? If so, contact John Zigler about them I'd bet he'll sell you all for $5.

  6. #6
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    The stud seals are square cut like a garden hose washer. Very easy to cut your own.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the replies guys!

    I haven't taken the housing off of the transom yet, so i'm going soley by the parts manual.

    I'm resealing the housing more as a preventative measure. The ski was sold to me without the driveshaft and impeller (apparently the previous owner sucked up some rocks and destroyed the impeller and shaft). So while replacing those, and rebuilding the pump, and checking the alignment, I figured that I might as well reseal that housing as well.

    These skis are 12 years old now and each have ~110 hours on them. I don't know how often these have to be resealed, but if I do it all now, I hope I'll be good for several years.

    Btw, what is the life expectancey of the average jet ski?

    And, is there any way to check/inspect the driveshaft to engine coupler? I'm concerned that if the impeller and driveshaft got chewed up that maybe the couple got damaged too.

  8. #8
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kl7741 View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys!

    I haven't taken the housing off of the transom yet, so i'm going soley by the parts manual. Then don't remove it.

    I'm resealing the housing more as a preventative measure. The ski was sold to me without the driveshaft and impeller (apparently the previous owner sucked up some rocks and destroyed the impeller and shaft). So while replacing those, and rebuilding the pump, and checking the alignment, I figured that I might as well reseal that housing as well. If it isn't leaking then I wouldn't do it.It will save you from having to realign it. Normally they do not leak. If you want to do something,just clean around the inside and add some new silicone around it.

    These skis are 12 years old now and each have ~110 hours on them. I don't know how often these have to be resealed, but if I do it all now, I hope I'll be good for several years. 110 hours is alot,a compression check will give you a good idea of the engine shape.

    Btw, what is the life expectancey of the average jet ski? Depends,but there's still alot of Polaris's that have more hours then that. And alot that have been rebuilt.

    And, is there any way to check/inspect the driveshaft to engine coupler? I'm concerned that if the impeller and driveshaft got chewed up that maybe the couple got damaged too.
    Check it visually,then also check the fit and feel.

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I agree. Do not remove the pump from the hull.

    You're more likely to cause a problem, than prevent one by doing so. If the wear ring was removed already, that's another story.

    You can still check engine alignment if you wish.

    110 hrs on the original top end would be a decent amount, but there are guys with over 200 hrs. Don't replace anything until you need to. Compression testing will tell how good the top end is holding up. A good visual inspection of the piston crowns wouild also aid in checking carb condition. (Do a search for piston wash)

    You can check the coupler splines to see if they are bad, but I wouldn't go putting my finger inside of it. You'll pull out all kinds of metal splinters if you do and it's worn.

    If your coupler is the black rubber mounted type vs. small SS then the splines usually will slip inside the rubber if it's bad. You'll know when the engine revs and you go no where.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    ...If your coupler is the black rubber mounted type vs. small SS then the splines usually will slip inside the rubber if it's bad.
    You'll know when the engine revs and you go no where.
    When a rubber bonded drive shaft coupler goes bad

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