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Thread: Sl 750 problems

  1. #1

    Sl 750 problems

    Hi

    just had my waterlocked engine repaired.Motor started well outside water.However it seems that the driveshaft/propellor was not fitted properly. The problem is that when i accelerate the craft is not moving even tho the engine is revving.DO YOU HAVE ANY DIAGRAMS TO ASSIST ON HOW TO REASSEMBLE THE DRIVESHAFT FROM THE ENGINE TO THE JET. WHAT DAMAGE COULD HAVE BEEN DONE BY ME STARTIN THE ENGINE AND TRYING TO RIDE THE CRAFT.


  2. #2

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    Have you got any drive at all?

  3. #3
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Check your pump for anything clogged

    Check your coupler for signs of damage

    The SL has a rubber spline damper type coupler and they have been seen to fail. take the four bolts around the pump out (not the ones into the hull) and pull the pump and shaft out (it will take a little wiggling) Inspec thte splines at the end and the coupler. they might be stripped. Check around the coupler area for ruber shards. These will tell you if the coupler has failed

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zaheer View Post
    ...just had my waterlocked engine repaired.Motor started well outside water.
    However it seems that the driveshaft/propellor was not fitted properly.

    The problem is that when i accelerate the craft is not moving even tho the engine is revving.

    DO YOU HAVE ANY DIAGRAMS TO ASSIST ON HOW TO REASSEMBLE THE DRIVESHAFT FROM THE ENGINE TO THE JET.

    WHAT DAMAGE COULD HAVE BEEN DONE BY ME STARTING THE ENGINE AND TRYING TO RIDE THE CRAFT.
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    What model and year is your Polaris?

    Have you downloaded the Polaris Factory Service manuals, which can be found here?

    Have a look at the this thread;
    When a rubber bonded drive shaft coupler goes bad

    I think your SL750 might have the solid metal coupler, which just has a rubber boot over the end.

    Per the manual, remove the jet pump after removing the four LONG bolts (not nuts) that hold it together (and the steering/reverse cables ends, and the small bilge suction hose(s)), then wiggle the pump body off.

    Since you had your engine repaired recently, the jet pump would have been removed for that, so it should not be too hard to remove again.

    When you get it apart, inspect and post some photos of the drive shaft spline ends, the splines inside the coupler on the engine, and the splines inside the impeller.

    Be careful, as these splines can develop sharp edges and thin metal slivers.


  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk Zaheer.

    As mentioned above, check the intake area for debris or obstructions.

    You should have the stainless steel engine coupler unless it was replaced with the black rubber mounted one.

    If it's the SS, check the splines on it, the drive shaft on both ends, and impeller. They should be "sqaured" off and not pointed like a V.

    If it's rubber mounted, check the splines on it. Also look for signs of burnt or shredded rubber.

    With the jet pump removed, inspect the impeller to wear ring clearance. Ideal is about 8 thousandths, with a max limit of 20 thousandths.

    If it checks out to be good, then remove the pump cone and inspect the impeller shaft and bearings.

    Hope this helps.

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