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  1. #1

    Talking Just bought my 2002 Honda Aquatrax F12-X turbo

    Test rode it today in 40-degree Seattle water and LOVED IT! It is WAY too much machine for me and I didnt have the balls to open it more than half way - this thing is a ROCKET!

    Ok, that aside, this is my first JetSki - I have rented a bunch of times, rode many SeaDoos, but this one I have to take care of. Not a new boater, or new to speed either - I built and raced Twin Turbo cars upwards of 240mph, sail, have a Zodiac, etc...

    My first question is regarding flushing. The factory manual, as is usually the case, must have been written by chimps!

    "Turn on engine, then turn on hose. Do not turn on hose first or you will flood and destroy your motor. Turn on your hose, but not too hard because pressure can destroy your motor. Do not run engine for more than 15 seconds without water or you will destroy it. When done, shut off the hose and rev the motor to 4000RPM to shoot the water out of the exhaust."
    Let's just say that my hose valve and my jetski are on OPPOSITE sides of my house - this was a PITA! First time out, I guess I didnt have enough hose pressure and the motor would not 'pee'. Tried revving it a few times (I have to do this on my outboard for the termastat to open) to no avail, then shut it down. Waited about a minute, then tried again with higher hose pressure and it peed OK, a bit warm at first (hot, but not steaming) but then everything seemed OK.

    Ok guys, this flush procedure and a lack of a normal easily accessable hose attachment is idiotic. There have got to be some better ways of doing this.

    For instance, cant I just tip the ski nose up and leave the hose running with the engine off? Can water still back-flow that way? Seems like a design flaw to me...

    Any other gotcha's I should know about as a new Ski owner? I know parts for these things are $$$ and I would like to avoid the common mistakes. From reading this forum, I gather that putting the drain plugs back in is a good idea

    Another thing, the manual says that I need to get a "generally avalible" pump for sucking the oil out of my ski. I have never had to suck oil out of anything - it is usually drained... What does the group suggest? Where do I get a pump best suited for this? And yet another thing - where do I get oil filters? Will the filters at my local FLAPS work for this, or do I need to order them? If so, where would you suggest? Is synthetic engine oil OK to run in these?
    Last edited by Tyson0317; 01-21-2009 at 02:28 AM. Reason: addition.


  2. #2
    Drummer Extraordinaire ijdal35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyson0317 View Post
    Ok guys, this flush procedure and a lack of a normal easily accessable hose attachment is idiotic. There have got to be some better ways of doing this.

    For instance, cant I just tip the ski nose up and leave the hose running with the engine off? Can water still back-flow that way? Seems like a design flaw to me...

    Any other gotcha's I should know about as a new Ski owner? I know parts for these things are $$$ and I would like to avoid the common mistakes. From reading this forum, I gather that putting the drain plugs back in is a good idea

    Another thing, the manual says that I need to get a "generally avalible" pump for sucking the oil out of my ski. I have never had to suck oil out of anything - it is usually drained... What does the group suggest? Where do I get a pump best suited for this? And yet another thing - where do I get oil filters? Will the filters at my local FLAPS work for this, or do I need to order them? If so, where would you suggest? Is synthetic engine oil OK to run in these?
    Congrats on your new addition. I will start by giving you my opinion on the tipping and flushing. I would not condone this method. I would be very wary of running the hose at all without the exhaust pressure "pushing" the water out through the water box, etc. What I would suggest is to get an in line shut off valve installed on the end of the hose, then attach a leader hose on the end of that to engage your flushing connector on the ski. That way you can turn the hose on at the spigot, and it will not flow into the ski until you turn the 2nd valve on. Be aware that there is NO water pump in your cooling system and that it is normally circulated by pressure generated by the jet pump (that is where the normal operating inlet is for cooling water). Do your best not to run water without running the engine first. Buy yourself a crap-load of CRCmultipurpose 6-56mulitpourpose lubricant to lubricate the turbo, waste-gate actuator, and all other engine components that may get/be wet. This product is widely used by the Honda contingent with great success. Also, there is no "drain plug" on this engine to remove for oil drainage, therefore we must use a "pump" to suck it out through "2" different areas on the ski. The first is the obvious front oil reservoir where you add the oil. The second is far less obvious under the turbo inlet in the rear of the engine. It is a much smaller cap that can easily be lost if dropped, so be cautious when removing/reinstalling. Some actually attach safety wire to it in case it is fumbled. I did. The oil pumps are available through marine shops and Internet sites, as well as aftermarket. Use the search feature on this site to find oil extractor brands, etc. I would stick with OEM oil filters, and I think most of the Honda owners would agree. There has been post about oil filter integrity, and Honda OEM seems to pretty high on the quality list. Fully synthetic oil is ok to run in these machines, as long as the initial break in period is completed (2002, so I assume yours is). hondapartsdirect.com is a well used site to buy parts from, but test them first and derive your own opinion as I have never used them ( I use a local dealer who is very kind to me). Buy yourself at least 2 sets of extra spark plugs, as we all know the Honda's have a bad habit of fouling for no specific reason. Work on the water is to try Advance Auto parts for the best pricing on them as they are expensive. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to give as much info as I could in a short amount of time. I'm sure there will be more put to your questions. Enjoy.

  3. #3
    congrats man! i picked up an 04 R-12x in september, i love it!

  4. #4
    IJDAL, thanks a ton for your detailed post!

    there is NO water pump in your cooling system and that it is normally circulated by pressure generated by the jet pump
    Why couldnt they just put that in the frigging manual?! They repeat the flushing procedure 2 or 3 times in there!! Grrr! First time out, I gave very little hose pressure because the manual said that over-pressure can cause damage.

    Ok, last question, the manual talks about the CRC 6-56 quite a bit and am sold on the fact that I need a case of it. I have never seen it at auto or boating stores (but I have never looked for it) where is a good place to locally get it?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyson0317 View Post
    IJDAL, thanks a ton for your detailed post!



    Why couldnt they just put that in the frigging manual?! They repeat the flushing procedure 2 or 3 times in there!! Grrr! First time out, I gave very little hose pressure because the manual said that over-pressure can cause damage.

    Ok, last question, the manual talks about the CRC 6-56 quite a bit and am sold on the fact that I need a case of it. I have never seen it at auto or boating stores (but I have never looked for it) where is a good place to locally get it?
    They always have it at West Marine or Bass Pro Shops here in Miami. And congrats on the new ski... you're gonna love it!

  6. #6
    800AMSOIL4U's Avatar
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    I would for sure recommend a Synthetic oil for that turbo ski. Here is an option for you. AMSOIL 10w-40 Synthetic Marine Oil.

    http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?z...storefront/wcf

  7. #7
    Drummer Extraordinaire ijdal35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyson0317 View Post
    IJDAL, thanks a ton for your detailed post!





    Ok, last question, the manual talks about the CRC 6-56 quite a bit and am sold on the fact that I need a case of it. I have never seen it at auto or boating stores (but I have never looked for it) where is a good place to locally get it?
    No problem, as far as getting CRC, I googled it and found Jamestown Distributor's in R.I. had a killer price for the 11oz cans (5$). I just went there today and the price is up to 10$. Oh well. The ordering was easy and they shipped right on time. That good price was in the middle of summer, so maybe the prices come down due to volume of sales. You can also contact CRC and ask where to get it locally to you.

    PS. put a little more info under your screen name and we can help more efficiently. ie, location.

    Good luck.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyson0317 View Post
    IJDAL, thanks a ton for your detailed post!



    Why couldnt they just put that in the frigging manual?! They repeat the flushing procedure 2 or 3 times in there!! Grrr! First time out, I gave very little hose pressure because the manual said that over-pressure can cause damage.

    Ok, last question, the manual talks about the CRC 6-56 quite a bit and am sold on the fact that I need a case of it. I have never seen it at auto or boating stores (but I have never looked for it) where is a good place to locally get it?
    You can get CRC 6-56 from www.doitbest.com thats the only place in the LA area I could get that stuff. I got 4 cans of it for 15 bucks shipped and tax. =)

    So should we spray CRC6-56 all over the block and all over the turbo?

  9. #9
    Drummer Extraordinaire ijdal35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dman25 View Post
    So should we spray CRC6-56 all over the block and all over the turbo?
    Yes, you can spray the engine itself, as well as lube the throttle cable, steering cable,& reverse bucket linkages, etc. The most important areas are the turbo housing itself (to keep it looking "new"), and the waste-gate actuator. The little arm that moves the waste-gate valve.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by ijdal35 View Post
    Yes, you can spray the engine itself, as well as lube the throttle cable, steering cable,& reverse bucket linkages, etc. The most important areas are the turbo housing itself (to keep it looking "new"), and the waste-gate actuator. The little arm that moves the waste-gate valve.

    Is this something you need to do always after each ride? Or is this a practice to do when you ride in salt water?

    Looks like I just bought an 06 turbo. Don't know a whle pile about these Honda, going to read a bunch now

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