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  1. #1

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    Speeking of total loss

    So can someone give me a run down on a total loss system?

    Let me add, I know what it is and the general idea about how it works; I'm looking for the true gains from the system AND how do those of you that have them keep your electrical system running in top shape? I'm thinking about it but I want to make sure it's the right move for the money!

    I have read the post about the batter chargers, solar cells and so on. I'm more so looking for what's common out there. How long doe syour battery last? Do you have to carry an extra? That kind of stuff.

    Thanks in advance!

    Scott


  2. #2

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    the plus is less weight on the crank snout and the motor feels is more responsive.

    down side is you will need to charge your battery for the way I ride it never was a problem Mudbug will be the first indurance test.
    when we go camping by the lake we just put the charger on over night and was good to go in the mourning again and it always lasted me all day.
    I don't carry an extra but seldom ski alone

    I am running a Odyssey batterie factory coils and a Advent ignition

    the reason I whent total loss was I bought my GPRs both with bad cranks the one had forty hours the other seventy, put a Riva true and welded in thirty hour later crank snout gone. Crank nine hundred dollars fly wheel three fifty cheap insurance
    Good luck hope this helps you decide

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Basically in a total loss system, the flywheel no longer charges the battery. Usually the flywheel on a total loss system has been replaced with a light weight aluminum flywheel, without the charging magnets.
    Or another method to make a total loss flywwheel on a stock flywheel is to remove the magnets on the stocker.

    Make sure it is properly balanced too by a professional if a stocker is going to be converted.

    Quicker acceleration is the main advantage of a total loss system since you have lightened the moving mass on the end of the crankshaft.

    The drawback is that you have to keep an eye on the charge level of the battery - and how often depends on how many times you use the starter (a big drain on the battery) plus how long you are out on the water. Figure about 4 to 6 hours of ride time starting off with a fully charged battery that has a 17 amp-hour rating - depending on how many times you use the starter.

    Some guys also install a battery cut-off switch and battery voltage monitor. Use a good battery such as an Odyssey or Optima


    note: I am not sure, But I think Fernando has one for sale.

  4. #4

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    Billy maybe someone could put one of these on their back and also use it as a lift wing for better speeds,

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Billy maybe someone could put one of these on their back and also use it as a lift wing for better speeds,
    yEAh !

  6. #6
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    The other problem is on EFI boats your fuel pump is running continuously. Also the bilge pump would need to be re-wired so it would come on by switch only.

  7. #7
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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  8. #8

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    On your EFI boat you are asking for trouble, if your fuel pump slows down because your battery is low it's going the run lean. And we all know what happens when you run lean. BOOM
    Mike

  9. #9
    QuickMick's Avatar
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    If you go to Total loss, you need to get a Gell Cell Battery. Lose the acid filled one. I ran the jetworks battery in my GPR and it never let me down.
    I even charged my battery off a spare ski battery I had in the blaster.
    Get a 2 amp charger and a 400 watt power inverter. Let it charge at night after a ride and night before a ride.

  10. #10

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    Thanks for all the info! That's what I was looking for!

    You know with Nandos reeds, Jetworks, and milled head from Lowell, I think the hole shot is out of control!!! I haven't found anyone up here that can out do me out of the hole so I think I'm gona pass for now...

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