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  1. #1
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    250x Pump removal question

    Hi guys,
    Well I sucked up some oysters from an 0yster bed and I need to pull the pump to take a look at the prop. Is it possible to pull the pump without removing the ride plate? Maybe if I removed the reverse bucket I could squeeze it by??

    let me know plz.....


  2. #2

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    Sounds like you need to im Skip and ask him. He seems to be the guru on the 250 stuff

  3. #3
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    Skip, you around bro??

    ps, I am guessing that I can use the same prop wrench that I used on my old STX-12F.

    PS, I purchased an extra complete pump setup from Chris Mac. at Macc racing, so now I just need to find a spare prop so I can switch them out on the fly.

  4. #4
    Clear the air space! MKaman's Avatar
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    you can pull the pump without removing the plate but you have to pull the reverse bucket and that is a bitch without droping the plate. So the long hard way is to not pull the plate

  5. #5
    I found not removing the plate is easier/safer/quicker than removing & reinstalling the plate with CORRECT sealant application to prevent cavitation problem later. For me, the bitch part was the hose clamp on the right side fitting of the pump because the clamp screw head was turned in a way that I couldn't easily reach with my screw driver. Once you try both ways, removing and not removing the plate, you will know for sure which way you will do next time.

  6. #6
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawi-Guy View Post
    Hi guys,
    Well I sucked up some oysters from an 0yster bed and I need to pull the pump to take a look at the prop. Is it possible to pull the pump without removing the ride plate? Maybe if I removed the reverse bucket I could squeeze it by??

    let me know plz.....

    Both reasons for pulling the plate off to remove pump have been covered.

    Once you put the hose clamps in a position you can us a 1/4 drive rachet or flex drive you can remove the boarding step from the hull , this will make getting the bucket off a little easier.But dont forget the 2 plate bolts if you are running a STOCK plate


    But to be honest it is heaps faster to just drop the plate.

    Only con is once you do re-assemble you can ride straight away got to wait for the plate to dry after you seal it.

    Waz

  7. #7
    Where the river meets the sea... Rogue Worx's Avatar
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    I just went through this... I had Dave from Impros help me as I was dropping the pump unit off to him to work on. We left the ride plate on. Disconected the rv bucket ans step. I cut one hose cuz the clamp was where I could not even get to it. Four bolts and it was done.

  8. #8
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help guys, I ended up removing everything, just couldn't get to the hose clamps easy enough and I pulled the ride plate after that.
    The prop is nicked up, so we'll see about getting it fixed up.

  9. #9
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    One more question, when I pulled the pump there was not a rubber impellor nose cone on the front of the prop. IS this normal for the 250x?
    My STX-12F props always had the nose cone on the prop/shaft connection.

  10. #10
    kman's Avatar
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    Yes!!! There is supposed to be a hard plastic, black nose cone on the end of the prop. It's this nose cone that seals in the grease around the prop bearing. If yours is missing then the bearings won't last very long as soon as you put it in the water. If you're talking about the other side of the prop where it mates with the "drive shaft", there is supposed to be a small rubber grommet that fits around the drive shaft and fits into the pump. However this grommet is not nearly as important as the nose cone and can be run without it.

    Check out the following link to view the parts diagram for your ski:
    http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/.../Kawasaki.aspx

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