Thread: A old school stator mod?
01-28-2009, 07:57 PM #1
A old school stator mod?
Been thinking along the lines of the magnum pumps with their set back shafts..
What if you move the exit closer to the impeller?
My thought is to cut down a stator on a WR(as they are cheap) and see what happens..I'm looking at being able to move the nozzel/bowl forward aprox 1 1/2 inches. As this is only a 6 vein stator and not a 8 or 12 like the magnum,which has short 1 inch veins... taper the unattached outside exess portion of the vein down in a easy convex curve to the hub to give the hub a bit more vein wall to stablize the thrust flow back...
Has this been tryed before?
any good welders want to help out?
01-28-2009, 08:38 PM #2
01-28-2009, 09:07 PM #3
that's a thought 'till you think about this being a two stage pump (real early old school yami's 1st generation pump design).. its has a taper where the impeller rides,with only a few .000 th's gap clearance.. IMO, not really feasable to do it your way . as this may show great improvement ,it would also be easy to do on the 2nd gen, single stage pumps too ,because we do not deal with the big block on the stator like the GPR has.....
Last edited by w/rpm500; 01-30-2009 at 04:52 PM.
01-28-2009, 09:55 PM #4
01-30-2009, 04:46 PM #5
Well at least no negatives .. I have two new hubs for a WR ,one will be used for base data and the other will be the cut model .. i will set these both up as close as possible, then changing over the impeller (with gap checked),housing and wear ring do some performance tests to try and evauate this mod under the same day conditions...thats the plan just need to cut and then find a competant welder..
01-31-2009, 11:04 PM #6
It can be done ! I have done this to a 98 GP1200 pump, it hooks up very well.
You will have to machine the rear bearing surface on the drive shaft further forward and shorten the bearing spacer. It reduces the volume of water by 500cc in the pump. You can only shorten the stator by 37mm befrore the stator veins begin to misalign with the nozzel.
You will need shorter bolts for the pump and need to drill new holes for the nozzel bolts in the hull. If you need more info send me a email.
Last edited by Adam; 01-31-2009 at 11:05 PM. Reason: missed a vital piece of info
02-01-2009, 12:07 AM #7
I understand what you did....Im going a slightly different route ...the hub where the bearings are is to remain the same. Basiclly I'm moveing the outlet nozzel forward, leaving the hub section and cone as is, to act as a tighter venturi or choke ...a permanent AAT per say, with less cc of water to push past ..this should raise water pressure at the outlet .. WR'S do not have veins in the outlet's bowl area like the 144 and 155 pumps ..... others may attempt my mod on their 144 or 155 pumps as its would be the rear streight section of vein length you modify and simpler than yours ....I did think of the shorter bolts and the mod to the mounting.. you would also need to shorten your steering cable that same amount, which is no problem ! thanks for the news of the success of your mod!!!
02-01-2009, 07:34 PM #8
The only problem you might have is a restricting of the water flow , the further back the cone is moved .
I understand it is like an adjustathrust permanently, but it may slow you down .
The setback magnum pump works because the water needed to prime the pump is reduced, and it allows more water to be stored infront of the pump.
Riva have a kit for Seadoo's that space the pump back 50mm to allow more water to smooth out before entering the pump, they report 2-3mph faster. Have a look at the Riva kit.
Last edited by Adam; 02-01-2009 at 07:35 PM. Reason: spelling error
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